93 4.0 not reving over 2,000rpm
#16
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I think the coil will be an exercise in futility. My money is on the dizzy is off a tooth.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ok, me and a buddy re-installed the distributor today, started and idled perfect, even rev’d up without misfiring. Then down the block it went back to its old ways and is misfiring every time I touch the gas pedal. Any ideas?
#18
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And, when you and a buddy re-installed the distributor today, what did you find, was in correctly or not?
#19
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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yes distributor looked like it was in correctly. Then we changed one spark plug wire that we suspected was bad and it drove perfect all the way to the gas station, 10 minutes or so with no issues at all. Turned it off at the gas station and when it started up again it was back to its old ways, Sputtering and misfiring with every touch of the gas battle.
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Year: 1993
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Also checked the codes again after driving it today and it is displaying 12, 11, 24, 55
12 and 55 are no worries obviously, 24 could be caused because we unplugged the throttle sensor today. Code 11 is a little worrisome and not sure what to make of that exactly
12 and 55 are no worries obviously, 24 could be caused because we unplugged the throttle sensor today. Code 11 is a little worrisome and not sure what to make of that exactly
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
11: Camshaft signal or ignition signal
24: Throttle position sensor
The cam sensor is inside of your distributor. Yup, you have the exact same symptoms with both new and old distributor but that does not rule out a problem with something else within the cam sensor "circuit" and that includes all wiring/connectors cam sensor related and possibly even the computer itself. A code is not always found to be related and caused by the sensor itself.
Test your throttle position sensor. More on this below.
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad
You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!
24: Throttle position sensor
The cam sensor is inside of your distributor. Yup, you have the exact same symptoms with both new and old distributor but that does not rule out a problem with something else within the cam sensor "circuit" and that includes all wiring/connectors cam sensor related and possibly even the computer itself. A code is not always found to be related and caused by the sensor itself.
Test your throttle position sensor. More on this below.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad
You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!
- Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
- Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
- Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
- Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Last edited by tjwalker; 11-06-2018 at 07:38 PM.
#24
CF Veteran
The 11 code is looking like your key here. Camshaft sensor is under the distributor cap. Yes it will wreak all kinds of havok. Mopar only on this nothing else will work. I have a great Mopar cam sensor that worked when two brand new autozone advance ones did not. Got it at the junkyard with over 100k on it works fine. My old one physically broke or that would likely still be there. That it throws the code 11 at all is a sure sign it's having serious problems. Many times they go bad and take forever to throw the code.
When I replaced my distributor I had to replace the brand new cam sensor inside it within about 5 days for this very reason.
When I replaced my distributor I had to replace the brand new cam sensor inside it within about 5 days for this very reason.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 11-06-2018 at 10:03 PM.
#25
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Year: 1993
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The 11 code is looking like your key here. Camshaft sensor is under the distributor cap. Yes it will wreak all kinds of havok. Mopar only on this nothing else will work. I have a great Mopar cam sensor that worked when two brand new autozone advance ones did not. Got it at the junkyard with over 100k on it works fine. My old one physically broke or that would likely still be there. That it throws the code 11 at all is a sure sign it's having serious problems. Many times they go bad and take forever to throw the code.
When I replaced my distributor I had to replace the brand new cam sensor inside it within about 5 days for this very reason.
When I replaced my distributor I had to replace the brand new cam sensor inside it within about 5 days for this very reason.
#27
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While there grab a TPS and IAC. Good to have around for troubleshooting.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 11-07-2018 at 06:04 AM.
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Year: 1993
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#29
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I was oing to say take the one from your old dist, but I see that was the first problem? Yeah $10 at the junkyard tops OK for the cam sensor but I would go to the dealer for a crank sensor. The magnets on the aftermarket ones just are not as strong, they put out too weak of a signal.
While there grab a TPS and IAC. Good to have around for troubleshooting.
While there grab a TPS and IAC. Good to have around for troubleshooting.