Hello.
I'm new, and I'm in trouble here...

I have a 95 Cherokee Country I bought for my daughter back in march of this year.

Last thursday night after the baseball game, it would not start. It would crank over, but not start.
I had it towed back home. I worked on a loose positive cable on the battery terminal. Then I checked codes.
I had a code 12 and a code 54.
Looking at parts at Oreilley's website, they had no camshaft sensor available for this Cherokee. I don't think it has one in this distributor.
I checked the rotor, it turns when cranking.
I replaced the Coil due to cracking.
I replaced the Distributor pickup, hoping that might be the problem.
I replaced the cap and rotor because I was there.
I replaced the ignition wires because I had a coil wire that was arcing.

The result was no start.
No spark at all.
No noid to test fuel injectors, but I smell fuel.
The auto shutdown relay is not holding in when starting.
I tried resetting the alarm system with 3 presses of the passenger side unlock button. No joy.
I tried looking under the dash by the driver's kick panel for a purple and yellow wire coming from a black plug, to ground it out to see if that would get the Auto Shutdown relay to hold. I couldn't find a purple and blue wire.

When I was looking for a ballast resistor for the fuel pump, I found a corroded wire going to the annunciator on the alarm. The siren.
I hooked up a clip and joined the corroded pieces which were terminated to ground at the annunciator, and the Cherokee started! This was a white wire with a black stripe, coming out of the firewall, to the red wire on the annunciator, and the black wire on the annunciator terminated at ground.

It ran for a day. Ran great.
Monday, Katie and I went somewhere, and when I got in to start the Jeep, it just cranked and didn't start.
I opened the hood, and the wire from the annunciator to ground, the ground was a little loose. Wiggling it didn't do it.
I bared the white wire with black stripe at the point where I soldered it to the red annunciator wire, and grounded it on the brake master cylinder. It started and got us home, with the Engine light on the whole way home.

I cut the white and black wire from the annunciator and tried grounding it at the annunciator, and it wouldn't start.
I noticed the grounding point for 2 terminals by the Control module on the drivers inner fender. I went to ground it there, and gently pulled the white wire a little to make the distance. It felt really loose.
Well, out of the firewall it came! It looked like it had been cut with scissors on the other end. I don't see how it was attached to anything.
The White wire with the black stripe was wrapped in vinyl along with a green wire, and a heavier gauge white wire.

So, Now it cranks over and won't start. The Shutdown relay down't hold.
I can hear the fuel pump pump up when I turn the key on.
I have to get this thing running so she can drive back to school in Michigan this Sunday. We're in St. Louis.
I have to fix this right, and right now.

Thanks for reading.

And my apologies for double posting in the "ask the question" thread.
I am in serious trouble with this one.

 

Checked the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
I'm only getting 44mV AC when cranking it over.

Checking resistance, I'm getting an open circuit between B and C. From what I've read, that's good.
I don't have a code for the crank sensor. And I wouldn't think that would hold out the Auto Shutdown relay, from what I've read.

 

95....ok. Cps is honestly the most likely candidate at this point. Only 44mv, or .04V is lower then what you should get. You should see more along the lines of .3-.5 V. Now bare in mind, the fuel pump primes because it runs for 3 seconds, and if no crank signal is detected, it stops priming. Also, injectors fire based upon timing, sent from you guessed it, the Cps. Get a mopar Cps and I'd bet it fixes it.

 

Thank you, Parsnip.
The dealer told me they should have the CPS from the warehouse today a little after 2pm.
I'll post up after I get it installed. I've got the lower dashboard out, repairing and taping up all the wires that have been buggered over the years. At least I'll have that back together before I have to wrestle the CPS back in.

 

The box store Cps tend to be crap, so honestly the dealer is the way to go

 

I installed the CPS. Not too bad of a job. I disconnected the front driveshaft to get some more room. Then I taped the bolt into a long 11mm socket. It all went together nicely.
It still won't start.
I called the dealer to schedule a service appointment. I called the tow truck to get the jeep to the dealer. He said he'd be here in about an hour.

So about the only thing I didn't do....
I found the grounding bundle on the dip stick support. I removed the nut, and removed the wires/terminal rings.
I hit both sides of each terminal ring with some sandpaper, put them back on the stud, tightened the nut down tight.
I crossed my fingers, turned the key, and what do you know?
It Started! Yay!
And, my God! Does this thing run smooth now. One thing I noticed about the new CPS was how much more magnetic it was than the old CPS.
All in all, I'm grateful it's running.
Thanks for the help. The CPS was a logical solution.