95 Cherokee, no spark
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0!
Gentlemen, the plot thickens. After replacing the distributor, I now have spark, but still won't fire. I am positive I indexed it correctly -- I suppose anything can happen, but when all was said and done, the rotor was dead on my index mark. Suspecting now that I've had two separate issues, which with some bad luck, happened at the same time.
I've cracked open the old distributor (the sync sensor was under a plastic plate) -- not much to it, looks like a little pickup, not sure if there is a way to test it or not. Out of curiosity, I tested the TPS, and got voltage readings within specs.
The more I'm thinking about this, when I took off the cap, there was a fair amount of carbon deposit on each terminal (cleaned up now). Maybe I've now got spark arcing through the cap and not getting to the right cylinder? Yuck...
Rocks, Popeye, wish I could help you --- I might not be the guy with the answers, but you found the right place when you found cherokeeforum.
I've cracked open the old distributor (the sync sensor was under a plastic plate) -- not much to it, looks like a little pickup, not sure if there is a way to test it or not. Out of curiosity, I tested the TPS, and got voltage readings within specs.
The more I'm thinking about this, when I took off the cap, there was a fair amount of carbon deposit on each terminal (cleaned up now). Maybe I've now got spark arcing through the cap and not getting to the right cylinder? Yuck...
Rocks, Popeye, wish I could help you --- I might not be the guy with the answers, but you found the right place when you found cherokeeforum.
Last edited by wingnut37; 09-17-2012 at 10:55 PM. Reason: additional testing...
#17
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Visalia, California
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L
Thanks Guys, Wingnut You are right about the forum, I have learned a lot already and am checking every suggestion I can without my mechanic around. They are the best.
You are however doing better then me, at least you get a spark. LOL
You are however doing better then me, at least you get a spark. LOL
Last edited by rockswealth; 09-18-2012 at 06:14 AM.
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0!
Ok, problem finally diagnosed. Two problems actually. One was a bad sync sensor. After that, I had spark, but the thing still wouldn't run. I'd started another thread relating to it, where I'd thought I'd mis-indexed the distributor, and was going about finding TDC to reindex it. With plug #1 pulled (for compression tester), I bumped the engine to get close to TDC, and it ran, with the plug out. The rest of the explanation is from the other thread....
Well, I think I've stumbled upon an answer, albeit in a roundabout way. I started to make a video to post to prove I wasn't crazy. By pure coincidence, every time I attempted to start the jeep with the #1 plug installed, I was inside the vehicle, using the ignition. Each time I started it with the plug out, I started it using jumper wires on the solenoid. As I went to start it this time, I put all plugs in, and used the jumper wires. Started and ran beautifully. ITS THE IGNITION SWITCH. I suspect that if anyone else tries it, their jeep too will run with a plug pulled, and with a little dumb luck, could also smother the engine by pressing a compression gauge in at just the wrong time. I've done it 10 times now, and each time it starts and runs with the jumper wires, but will not start and run by putting the key into the start position. Cranks, but does not fire. Can't explain why, perhaps that's just how ignition switches fail?? Either way, I'm going to get a beer. Thoughts? And many thanks to those who've taken the time to help.
Well, I think I've stumbled upon an answer, albeit in a roundabout way. I started to make a video to post to prove I wasn't crazy. By pure coincidence, every time I attempted to start the jeep with the #1 plug installed, I was inside the vehicle, using the ignition. Each time I started it with the plug out, I started it using jumper wires on the solenoid. As I went to start it this time, I put all plugs in, and used the jumper wires. Started and ran beautifully. ITS THE IGNITION SWITCH. I suspect that if anyone else tries it, their jeep too will run with a plug pulled, and with a little dumb luck, could also smother the engine by pressing a compression gauge in at just the wrong time. I've done it 10 times now, and each time it starts and runs with the jumper wires, but will not start and run by putting the key into the start position. Cranks, but does not fire. Can't explain why, perhaps that's just how ignition switches fail?? Either way, I'm going to get a beer. Thoughts? And many thanks to those who've taken the time to help.
#19
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
Waa the key in the off position im having a problem after a fire by battery repaired all wiring i hope and to fuel pump relay my fuel pump works when bypassed but no start no spark thanks
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0!
Glenn, no, in my case, the key still needs to be in the run position in order to energize the circuitry to ECU, etc. My recent experience says spark problems are due to CPS, sync sensor in the distributor, ignition coil or wiring. Given that you had a fire, I'd go after wiring and start backprobing for continuity... more details you can give, the more people can help you out... best of luck.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Landers, CA
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Another made up story like your previous thread?
"Runs on 5 cylinders, but not 6!"
The ignition switch is NOT cylinder specific!
We thought you had a legitimate problem. You do, but not with a Jeep.
"Runs on 5 cylinders, but not 6!"
The ignition switch is NOT cylinder specific!
We thought you had a legitimate problem. You do, but not with a Jeep.
Last edited by rrich; 09-20-2012 at 07:13 PM.
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0!
I did my best to describe the problems thoroughly and accurately. My apologies for any confusion introduced, it was purely incidental -- I can assure you that I was just as confused. As for your accusation of my making things up, I can also assure you that I have better things to do with my time. Again, apologies for confusion, and apologies for unleashing your inner *****, RRich.
Thanks to all who tried to help, without being self-righteous.
#24
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Visalia, California
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L
The Plot thickens
Okay today I had my mechanic check all the grounding wires and he says they look fine. However we did find a problem the 30a fuse under the hood was blown. I got excited for a minute thinking I was going to get my Jeep back on the road. No such luck. Put a new one in and blew it without starting. Does this mean I have a short some where and where would be the most logical place to look? Thanks guys
Rocks
Rocks
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Check the wires to you o2 sensors, mine melted where they passed by the exhaust and shorted blowing the 30 amp fuse going to the asd relay.
#26
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Visalia, California
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L
Thanks ejxj96,
Well some how not sure how, she is running again. Woo Hoo. We cleaned all the ground connections, then replaced the 30a that keep busting, took off one of the plug wires and put plug in, turned all the lights off, to check for spark and wallah she started and did not blow the fuse. I am so excited to have her back on the road.
Thank you all for your input. You are the best.
Well some how not sure how, she is running again. Woo Hoo. We cleaned all the ground connections, then replaced the 30a that keep busting, took off one of the plug wires and put plug in, turned all the lights off, to check for spark and wallah she started and did not blow the fuse. I am so excited to have her back on the road.
Thank you all for your input. You are the best.
#27
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
still check o2 wiring at rear sensor very common issue . one question for every one why has no one checkeed for codes even if lights not on codes can be stored the diagnostic system is there for aa reason can cave a lot of money throwing parts at vechicles .
#29
95 jeep cherokee xj 4.0l
Started my jeep up, drove about 100 yards or so and it shut off and would not start back up. Cranks but won't start. In reading all the jeep forums, I have changed the crankshaft sensor, cam shaft sensor and the ecm. Still same thing cranks but won't start. Also I have checked for spark at coil and no spark, my fuel pump isn't coming on either when I turn the key on. Not sure what I should check next any help is greatly appreciated
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Blackcherokee290
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
27
07-26-2022 07:52 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)