Thetastycat

Hey all - I heard and felt a clunk from the front right, then at low speed it sounded like someone threw a handful of gravel into the dryer, so I'm assuming I've got a busted axle shaft u-joint. I've also been wondering if all that noise from the front end was my MTZ P3s or whether the wheel bearings are toast.

Is it easy to replace the wheel bearing while I'm doing the axle shaft u-joint? Or is it a bunch more work?

This is actually on a LP30 out of a 97 TJ, tiding me over for another 6 months or so until I get a HP44 in there. I don't want to blow big money on this thing but I'll also be driving it for a while yet and I'd rather sell it when it doesn't need anything.

Thanks a lot!

Philippe L.

Hello. I did both front axle wheel bearings last weekend. I found that it should take no more than 2 hours each, yet it took me 6 hours in total. One was pretty stuck tho.

If I understand the front axle layout well enough, it is required to remove the wheel bearing when changing the axle u-joint.
Try looking for play (12 and 6 o'clock method). The slightest play should be a bad wheel bearing.
When you find any play, I would suggest changing the wheel bearing.

Thetastycat

Hey Philippe! Thanks for your quick reply. So get this - after I hit send on my post, I went out and jacked up the wheel in question. I know this isn't the best indicator, but the axle shaft u-joint seemed to look just fine and be doing its job - when I'd rotate the wheel, the axle shaft would begin to move immediately.

HOWEVER

There was a HUGE amount of play in the wheel between 12 and 6!!! Nothing from 9 to 3 - the other wheel would begin to move when I'd do that. So that does in fact sound like a wheel bearing after all!! So since you've just done yours, would there be any point in doing that u-joint if I'm already in there for a bearing? I don't think it's bad, and a decent axle shaft u-joint is only like $22 on Rockauto - but I know I'd have to beat it out of there!!

Sure appreciate it again!

Philippe L.

Well, it seems like you found your problem!

U-joints are what seem to be pretty cheap in US. As far as I've read, with the correct tools, it's not that much of a hustle to replace it.
If you've already got the axle free, I would do it because there is no other reason to get the axle free up to that point. If you understand what I'm trying to say...

I didn't change the u-joints because I currently don't know where to get good replacement parts in Belgium.

Thetastycat

Well that sounds like good advice. Yes, it's important for me not to take for granted how easily I can get replacement parts in the US! Might as well do it while I'm in there.

Congrats on your wheel bearing job - I'll dive into mine this week!

Philippe L.

Don't take it for granted, indeed. Sometimes I'm looking for stupid things and they end up being €30/piece...

Goodluck.

Thetastycat

Thank you!! Hey, quick question - is there just one bearing or is there an inner and outer? Sometimes these parts websites just don't make much sense to me...do you think I need to replace just the bearing or the whole hub assembly?

I really appreciate your patience with all of my questions!

Philippe L.

Front axle bearings are a hub assembly. You change the whole hub.

There are single bearings inside, but I don't think any one changes these.

lawsoncl

Visually inspect the u-joint first. A bad u-joint will be more obvious spinning the wheel with the steering cranked over to the side versus straight on. Play tilting from 6-12 and not 3-9 sounds like it could be ball joints too. Also make sure it's not just a rock stuck between the dust shield and the rotor - that'll make lots of scary noises too.

BlueRidgeMark

The bearing job isn't bad, though. Don't be scared of it. IIRC, you do need a special socket for it. A 12 point 13 mm. They can be hard to find.

Remember that penetrating oil and a torch are your friends.

And by penetrating oil, I do NOT mean WD-40!

PB Blaster is good, as is Deep Creep (from Seafoam).

The best is Kroil, but it's hard to find.

Thetastycat

Excellent advice, all - thank you! The new u-joint is $22 - why not do it while I'm in there so the next owner doesn't have to deal with it.

Would you believe I do have Kroil? It's one of the best things to clean suppressors. PB Blaster is certainly my friend too!!

BlueRidgeMark

I once passed up a chance to get 9 one gallon cans of Kroil for twenty bucks a can.

Yes, I'm still kicking myself.

Thetastycat

Oh, it's TOO easy to kick ourselves for things we could have bought in the past If we'd only known!

bluejeep2001

Thetastycat

Bluejeep, that's a pretty ingenious idea - thanks a lot! Yeah, from everything I've watched on youtube, this job involves a little more pounding on stuff and trying not to damage it than I'd prefer - this is a pretty sharp idea.