Hi all. New here. What do I need to watch for if attempting AW4 valve b removal while on vehicle?
What small parts/springs might go flying?

This vehicle is either starting out in FIRST or SECOND gear (not completely sure which) and not wanting to shift up at all.
Manual shifting by floor shifter seems to be the same issue. And letting off the acc pedal in OD seems to go into a "neutral" or coast type state.(no engine braking)
There is no metal or debris in the pan after removal other than grit on the magnets. Although fluid was pretty dark.

It has the RHD postal carrier package. I'm not sure if that means tranny mods or not.
Thanks for any insight.

 

I wouldve just cleaned the screen and changed the fluid and hoped that did the trick before tearing it apart. Sometimes you get lucky.

 

^^^ this....
1. drain
2. clean screen (some do some dont) depends on how bad the fluid is.
3. refill
4. pray

 

Update...
Ok I haven't pulled the valve body yet but i did check the solenoids.
This photo is the one closest to front of vehicle which I believe it the TCC solenoid. It is broken where the stem/o-ring goes into the vb. I'm not sure if it has been broke or broke when I loosened the bolt. Am I correct in saying the TCC solenoid is normally open allowing fluid to flow through the actual body of the solenoid and closes when voltage is applied in effect stopping fluid flow, increasing pressure, and allowing the TCC to lock?
The other 2 solenoids I think are normally closed and will open when voltage is applied. All 3 solenoids are between 12 and 18 Ohms.
Also the TCC solenoid will click closed when I apply voltage but won't snap/spring back on it's own. Not sure if that is normal or not. The other 2 will click (open) and snap/spring back.
So where should I look first to buy replacement solenoids? Thanks.

 

Update... this may explain the "coasting" in OD issue.
Ok I haven't pulled the valve body yet but i did check the solenoids.
This photo is the one closest to front of vehicle which I believe it the TCC solenoid. It is broken where the stem/o-ring goes into the vb. I'm not sure if it has been broke or broke when I loosened the bolt. Am I correct in saying the TCC solenoid is normally open allowing fluid to flow through the actual body of the solenoid and closes when voltage is applied in effect stopping fluid flow, increasing pressure, and allowing the TCC to lock?
The other 2 solenoids I think are normally closed and will open when voltage is applied. All 3 solenoids are between 12 and 18 Ohms.
Also the TCC solenoid will click closed when I apply voltage but won't snap/spring back on it's own. Not sure if that is normal or not. The other 2 will click (open) and snap/spring back.
So where should I look first to buy replacement solenoids? Thanks.

 

Update... this may explain the "coasting" in OD issue.
Ok I haven't pulled the valve body yet but i did check the solenoids.
This photo is the one closest to front of vehicle which I believe it the TCC solenoid. It is broken where the stem/o-ring goes into the vb. I'm not sure if it has been broke or broke when I loosened the bolt. Am I correct in saying the TCC solenoid is normally open allowing fluid to flow through the actual body of the solenoid and closes when voltage is applied in effect stopping fluid flow, increasing pressure, and allowing the TCC to lock?
The other 2 solenoids I think are normally closed and will open when voltage is applied. All 3 solenoids are between 12 and 18 Ohms.
Also the TCC solenoid will click closed when I apply voltage but won't snap/spring back on it's own. Not sure if that is normal or not. The other 2 will click (open) and snap/spring back.
So where should I look first to buy replacement solenoids? Thanks.

 

Ha. Prayers not answered. I completed steps 1 through 4 and same issue.
I'm not sure why my previous submitted post from last night never showed up on the forum. Maybe the photo was too large.
Anyhow I did have a TCC solenoid with a broken plastic boss/o ring where it slides into the valve. Ordered 3 piece set from the A.
Still not shifting out of 1st/2nd, whichever gear it starts out in.
Maybe the "coasting" in OD is due to the broken/open/now missing TCC solenoid.
Thoughts?

 

Ok... through further road testing I have discovered that I am getting an upshift (1 to 2, 2 to 3, or 1 to 3?) as I am in the process of putting the pedal to the floor (between 3/4 throttle and wot, and I am getting a downshift as I am starting to let off the pedal (almost immediately or pretty quick.) Any body ever experienced this? Seems like something is bassackwards. It's almost as if the TV cable might be hooked up in reverse. Is that even possible? Fyi downshift is always back to 1st gear i think. This happens even upwards of 45-55 mph!
Other than basically flooring the pedal, it just stays stuck in the same gear I start moving in.
I have the TCU unhooked and I am doing it all on the floor shifter. Would the tcc solenoid being out of the tranny be any cause for this if I have the tcu unhooked? The plastic solenoid boss/o-ring that goes into the valve port was broke anyway not actually blocking the port when voltage would be applied from the tcu.
Thanks if you have any insight

 

...update continued.
So with the TV cable disconnected from throttle linkage (metal cable all the way in), I went back out and the weird shift timing seemed almost worse. And then I strapped the cable end all the way out and now i have "normal" shifting in at least 2 gears. I'm not sure if I am getting 1st to 2nd to 3rd, or just 1 to 3 or 2 to 3. Anyhow the TV cable position is definitely making a difference. Although it should shift correctly with the cable hooked to linkage and positioned properly but it is not.
^ ^^^...and this issue is not noticed at all with the cable all the way out.

 

have you checked the solenoid resistances from engine harness or TCM harness ?

I presume you would have

You need a Youtube, and FSM before dismantling the valve body in situ (imo)

 

...update continued. (Tried to post this last night)
So with the TV cable disconnected from throttle linkage (metal cable all the way in), I went back out and the weird shift timing seemed almost worse. And then I strapped the cable end all the way out and now i have "normal" shifting in at least 2 gears. I'm not sure if I am getting 1st to 2nd to 3rd, or just 1 to 3 or 2 to 3. Anyhow the TV cable position is definitely making a difference. Although it should shift correctly with the cable hooked to linkage and positioned properly but it is not.
^ ^^^...and this issue is not noticed at all with the cable all the way out.

 

Ok so apparently a reply won't actually post if submitted after a certain time at night!?!

 

I only bench tested the actual solenoids after removing them when the pan was off. All had spec resistance but the tcc sol plastic was broke. I reassembled without tcc sol and was later road testing with the tcu disconnected.



I also reconnected the tcu with the tv cable full out and it still shifted "normal". (missing tcc solenoid)
Although i seem to only feel 1 definitive shift. More road testing in a bit to determine if am getting 1 or 2 shifts for sure. I need a dang tach! Would I get 4th gear/overdrive at all without the tcc solenoid?

 

dont assume its all good if the solenoid tests good on the bench, you should test the whole circuit

mine has a dud wire to the TCC solenoid

Jeep wires are crap

 

Thanks. Definitely need to check whole circuit. Seems like I saw a tcu pin diagram somewhere on here.
I do have new solenoids from the A to install though. However my non-shift issue is happening with the tcu unplugged too, eliminating electronics I guess.
I just don't quite understand why the tranny seemingly upshifts and downshifts ok when the tv cable is unhooked and blocked all the way out (higher pressure?) but when unhooked all the way in, the upshift and downshift are "backwards". Ex. Let off acc pedal at 45 mph=immediate downshift (to 1st gear I think). Floor acc pedal at 45=upshift.
Is it even possible to have the tv cam working in reverse? I wouldn't think so.
Overall tranny seems to shift better when cold. Pump? Torque converter?
All of this is without the tcc sol in the tranny and the tcu disconnected.
Thanks again, Kevin