95 XJ Starter Replacement
#16
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Had the same issues with starting. Replaced starter and battery had same issue. Replaced factory wore out positive battery cable to the starter. Cranked right up. Wish I had seen your post sooner. IF it had just been the cable cheaper to replace. Not easier if you took the old one out (which you don't actually have to do) but def cheaper than a new starter. Another response mentioned your connections. On a older, dirtier, oiler Jeep connections are very important.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#17
I'm planning to replace my OEM battery, when if fails, with a GM side terminal battery. That will require new cables too.
Every top terminal I have (Jeep, Tundra, Generator) has corroded terminals and clamps. Whereas I have a 20 YO S10 with side terminals and bottom clamp, not a bit of corrosion. Easier to install to, just a 8mm wrench.
Thanks
#18
Thanks, I'll check my grounds sometime this week. I'll let you know how it turns out. I was at Autozone today and they told me that they can check out the starter when I remove it.
#19
Ok, I replaced the starter today and it still won't crank. Same symptoms, when I turn the key, the blower and stereo go dead. Still can't figure out what's going on. Maybe the cable that goes from the battery to the starter? All connections are clean. Could it be that ignitions switch? The neutral starter switch? I move the shift lever while I start it and still nothing.
#20
Ok, I replaced the starter today and it still won't crank. Same symptoms, when I turn the key, the blower and stereo go dead. Still can't figure out what's going on. Maybe the cable that goes from the battery to the starter? All connections are clean. Could it be that ignitions switch? The neutral starter switch? I move the shift lever while I start it and still nothing.
#21
Try the route Gapanda suggested. I am having the same issue with mine currently. Battery is good, all ground have been cleaned, starter is brand new (thinking now I didn't need it). Still won't start. Inspected my positive battery cable and they were both corroded (from battery to starter and fuse block). Pulled them out today and they were nasty looking. Currently shopping for replacements. Orielly's didn't have any. Thinking this is my culprit tho, because after the last no start, I checked the cable with volt meter and got nothing.
#22
Try the route Gapanda suggested. I am having the same issue with mine currently. Battery is good, all ground have been cleaned, starter is brand new (thinking now I didn't need it). Still won't start. Inspected my positive battery cable and they were both corroded (from battery to starter and fuse block). Pulled them out today and they were nasty looking. Currently shopping for replacements. Orielly's didn't have any. Thinking this is my culprit tho, because after the last no start, I checked the cable with volt meter and got nothing.
#23
I believe so, but someone who knows more about the electricals will probably chime in if I'm wrong. I got nothing on mine at all, needel tried to move once, but that was it. didn't even make it to the first mark on the meter.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/no...cklist-155216/ Heres a good thread to check out also if you haven't already.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/no...cklist-155216/ Heres a good thread to check out also if you haven't already.
Last edited by Dro; 04-14-2013 at 11:44 PM.
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 3
From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Inspect all of your cables very closely. If there is discoloring in spots, chances are the cables are nice and fried in the inside. This is when you check out kelleyswip.com
#25
Try shorting the two large terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. Just long enough to see if the starter kicks. (leave the key OFF, transmission in Park and chock your wheels- just to be safe)
If it cranks, your cables, grounds and starter are functional. If not, investigate those things.
Next get your DMM and measure voltage on the wire connected to the small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That's the ignition switch signal. It should be +12V with the key turned to 'start' and zero volts otherwise. Disconnect it from the solenoid to measure.
If there is voltage there on 'start' AND the starter cranked when you shorted the large terminals- the starter solenoid is probably bad.
If there is NO voltage at that small terminal on 'start', check the NSS, PDC Start relay and Ignition switch.
Here is how all these items interact:
The ignition switch operates a relay in the PDC when turned to 'start'. That relay is grounded through the NSS.
If the ignition switch is turned to 'start', (thus providing +12V to the relay) AND the NSS is providing ground to the relay, the relay closes and +12V is supplied through it to that small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That causes the solenoid (basically a high-current relay) to connect battery power to the starter motor.
So..if there's no signal at that small, third terminal on the solenoid, try jumpering your NSS temporarily. B&C- see below. If it cranks with the jumper the NSS needs cleaning or replacement.
If still nothing, replace the start relay in the PDC.
If still nothing, pull the ignition switch and have a look. Particularly the connector- for signs of overheating.
Last edited by Radi; 04-15-2013 at 03:35 AM.
#26
You mentione that I should measure the voltage on the wire that goes to the third small terminal. That wire is also connected to the large positive termimal on the solenoid. Its a lug with two hole, one goes to the positive teminal and the other to the small one. You would get the same voltage reading on just by simply reading the voltageon the end of the cable, wouldn't you? I'm confused about why to measure the wire that goes to the small third terminal.
Could be any of those. I assume you've checked all the fuses?
Try shorting the two large terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. Just long enough to see if the starter kicks. (leave the key OFF, transmission in Park and chock your wheels- just to be safe)
If it cranks, your cables, grounds and starter are functional. If not, investigate those things.
Next get your DMM and measure voltage on the wire connected to the small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That's the ignition switch signal. It should be +12V with the key turned to 'start' and zero volts otherwise. Disconnect it from the solenoid to measure.
If there is voltage there on 'start' AND the starter cranked when you shorted the large terminals- the starter solenoid is probably bad.
If there is NO voltage at that small terminal on 'start', check the NSS, PDC Start relay and Ignition switch.
Here is how all these items interact:
The ignition switch operates a relay in the PDC when turned to 'start'. That relay is grounded through the NSS.
If the ignition switch is turned to 'start', (thus providing +12V to the relay) AND the NSS is providing ground to the relay, the relay closes and +12V is supplied through it to that small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That causes the solenoid (basically a high-current relay) to connect battery power to the starter motor.
So..if there's no signal at that small, third terminal on the solenoid, try jumpering your NSS temporarily. B&C- see below. If it cranks with the jumper the NSS needs cleaning or replacement.
If still nothing, replace the start relay in the PDC.
If still nothing, pull the ignition switch and have a look. Particularly the connector- for signs of overheating.
Try shorting the two large terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. Just long enough to see if the starter kicks. (leave the key OFF, transmission in Park and chock your wheels- just to be safe)
If it cranks, your cables, grounds and starter are functional. If not, investigate those things.
Next get your DMM and measure voltage on the wire connected to the small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That's the ignition switch signal. It should be +12V with the key turned to 'start' and zero volts otherwise. Disconnect it from the solenoid to measure.
If there is voltage there on 'start' AND the starter cranked when you shorted the large terminals- the starter solenoid is probably bad.
If there is NO voltage at that small terminal on 'start', check the NSS, PDC Start relay and Ignition switch.
Here is how all these items interact:
The ignition switch operates a relay in the PDC when turned to 'start'. That relay is grounded through the NSS.
If the ignition switch is turned to 'start', (thus providing +12V to the relay) AND the NSS is providing ground to the relay, the relay closes and +12V is supplied through it to that small, third terminal on the starter solenoid. That causes the solenoid (basically a high-current relay) to connect battery power to the starter motor.
So..if there's no signal at that small, third terminal on the solenoid, try jumpering your NSS temporarily. B&C- see below. If it cranks with the jumper the NSS needs cleaning or replacement.
If still nothing, replace the start relay in the PDC.
If still nothing, pull the ignition switch and have a look. Particularly the connector- for signs of overheating.
#27
You mentione that I should measure the voltage on the wire that goes to the third small terminal. That wire is also connected to the large positive termimal on the solenoid. Its a lug with two hole, one goes to the positive teminal and the other to the small one. You would get the same voltage reading on just by simply reading the voltageon the end of the cable, wouldn't you? I'm confused about why to measure the wire that goes to the small third terminal.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/starter-wiring-90221/
#28
They shoudn't be connected. There is a molded rubber thing holding the wires together..is that what you are referring to? See pics here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/starter-wiring-90221/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/starter-wiring-90221/
#29
Also, when you say check the voltages when the key is turned to start, I assume that means that I have to have someone turn the key while I check the voltage?
#30
Actually- if you have 10' or so of wire laying around, that may not be a bad idea. Keeps you out from under the Jeep while testing.