When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hey guys! So I’m putting in a Compustar system into my 96 abs ram into an issue. I had heard that the polarity on pre 97 was positive as far as door locks go and most RF systems nowadays use negative so I went ahead and bought an inverter that Ksuspenion had said to use in a video. The inverter is a 3 prong connection and my control module doesn’t even have a 3 prong on it. Compustart master manual says to use their FT-DM600 or 700 on my unit but the connectors look way too big to use. My 96 is a classic with OHC and I believe it has the IR module in it but I’m doing away with the console so I’m wondering if it had keyless in the past maybe? I got the remote start dialed in perfectly fine, just wanted some insight as to whether I should just send it or what ever I need to do.
the new unit: Compustar CS920-S (920S) 1-way Remote Start and Keyless Entry System with 1000-ft Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NDP76T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C99JACMN8QSEYCYEH23?_encodin g=UTF8&psc=1
the relay I had bought: PN#451M
sorry, I dont understand exactly what your question is ?
I fitted an el-cheapo Ebay unit to one of my '96s, just hooked it up, and it worked as before.
If you are asking perhaps (from your pics) whether you should try to locate the original remote harness and wire into that, most certainly yes, it should be in the overhead console unit I believe (mine had no console, but the separate "spy camera" unit from the Sports model)
sorry, I dont understand exactly what your question is ?
I fitted an el-cheapo Ebay unit to one of my '96s, just hooked it up, and it worked as before.
If you are asking perhaps (from your pics) whether you should try to locate the original remote harness and wire into that, most certainly yes, it should be in the overhead console unit I believe (mine had no console, but the separate "spy camera" unit from the Sports model)
Ah okay, you are saying I should try and wire it from the harness at the roof and not then he harness at the kick panel correct?
Congrats on getting the remote start to work. That was the hard part.
The two wires coming off of CN-3 are trigger wires that provide a ground to when activated. They are meant to trigger an existing (or added) relay and will not carry enough current to actually run the lock/unlock solenoid. Looking at the FSM, the door switches and the overhead console control the positive to the existing relays. Shouldn't make a difference whether you grab the switch wiring at either door, or the overhead console since they're all wired in parallel. So yes, you need a couple of relays to make this work, often sold pre-wired as "inverters". The inverter(s) you bought should have a wiring diagram. It should have +12 to it, a connection to the remote control (-) control wires, and outputs that go to te existing vehicle switch wires.
Minor rant - the main reason I hate these "universal kits" is that installers tend to butcher the wiring harness installing them, often using scotch-lok wiring taps. Or the driveway hacks who like to twist and tape wires together. I've spend a lot of time unf*cking these messes. It's usually worthwhile to spend a little more and get a vehicle specific model that's plug-n-play.
Congrats on getting the remote start to work. That was the hard part.
The two wires coming off of CN-3 are trigger wires that provide a ground to when activated. They are meant to trigger an existing (or added) relay and will not carry enough current to actually run the lock/unlock solenoid. Looking at the FSM, the door switches and the overhead console control the positive to the existing relays. Shouldn't make a difference whether you grab the switch wiring at either door, or the overhead console since they're all wired in parallel. So yes, you need a couple of relays to make this work, often sold pre-wired as "inverters". The inverter(s) you bought should have a wiring diagram. It should have +12 to it, a connection to the remote control (-) control wires, and outputs that go to te existing vehicle switch wires.
Minor rant - the main reason I hate these "universal kits" is that installers tend to butcher the wiring harness installing them, often using scotch-lok wiring taps. Or the driveway hacks who like to twist and tape wires together. I've spend a lot of time unf*cking these messes. It's usually worthwhile to spend a little more and get a vehicle specific model that's plug-n-play.
Back of the relay 3 pin connector with smaller guage wires Part number Larger guage wires w/ inline fuse
Congrats on getting the remote start to work. That was the hard part.
The two wires coming off of CN-3 are trigger wires that provide a ground to when activated. They are meant to trigger an existing (or added) relay and will not carry enough current to actually run the lock/unlock solenoid. Looking at the FSM, the door switches and the overhead console control the positive to the existing relays. Shouldn't make a difference whether you grab the switch wiring at either door, or the overhead console since they're all wired in parallel. So yes, you need a couple of relays to make this work, often sold pre-wired as "inverters". The inverter(s) you bought should have a wiring diagram. It should have +12 to it, a connection to the remote control (-) control wires, and outputs that go to te existing vehicle switch wires.
Minor rant - the main reason I hate these "universal kits" is that installers tend to butcher the wiring harness installing them, often using scotch-lok wiring taps. Or the driveway hacks who like to twist and tape wires together. I've spend a lot of time unf*cking these messes. It's usually worthwhile to spend a little more and get a vehicle specific model that's plug-n-play.
Yea I couldn’t find any vehicle specific ones at least for a 96 XJ so I went the next “best” option. So I figured it wouldn’t make a difference as to whether I tapped in from the OHC or the kick panel but as far as the relay goes, where do I go about wiring that in? The difference in size of the wires is throwing me off and the fact that I have a 3 pin connector and there isn’t anything less than a 4 pin receiver on the Compustar unit itself.
Pretty sure you're gonna have to snip that 3-pin connector. The heavier gauge wires are because this can be used to drive the solenoids directly, versus just driving the trigger wires. You'll have to look at the instructions to see which of them get connected together to the +12 volts.
Pretty sure you're gonna have to snip that 3-pin connector. The heavier gauge wires are because this can be used to drive the solenoids directly, versus just driving the trigger wires. You'll have to look at the instructions to see which of them get connected together to the +12 volts.
Okay for sure, and as far as snipping that connector, where would those 3 wires go? I apologize, I’ve put these systems in 97+ so this is a first for me haha.
https://lockdownsecurity.forumbee.co...lguidev1_0.pdf
CN4 is where the FT-DM600 or 700 would plug right in. The 700 looks like it's meant to drive the solenoids directly, and the 60 is for positive trigger wires.
I think the simplest and cleanest solution is just buying the FT-DM600 which plugs into the Compustar CN4 connector and you just run the two wires to the existing vehicle switch wires. https://www.ebay.com/itm/23444977788...cAAOSw2UxiITq2 https://wpmore.com/products/firstech...4-series-3-pcs (has diagram in the listing)
Blue & blue/blank wires in the diagram to the vehicle switches
The other wires for the trunk and 2nd unlock function are unused.
https://lockdownsecurity.forumbee.co...lguidev1_0.pdf
CN4 is where the FT-DM600 or 700 would plug right in. The 700 looks like it's meant to drive the solenoids directly, and the 60 is for positive trigger wires.
I think the simplest and cleanest solution is just buying the FT-DM600 which plugs into the Compustar CN4 connector and you just run the two wires to the existing vehicle switch wires. https://www.ebay.com/itm/23444977788...cAAOSw2UxiITq2 https://wpmore.com/products/firstech...4-series-3-pcs (has diagram in the listing)
Blue & blue/blank wires in the diagram to the vehicle switches
The other wires for the trunk and 2nd unlock function are unused.
I was looking at the 700 yesterday and I can’t see where it would plug in and I had thought about the 600 but it looks like 6pin connector is too big for the cn4 spot. It also through me off because the description says “CM3/CM4” and mines a “CN3/CN4”. I’ll post a pic of the cn4 from my module.
The white being CN4
04-16-2022, 10:41 PM
96 Aftermarket Keyless Entry
