My 96 Cherokee country keeps dying while driving I have been searching the forums and have tried a new CPS/TPS fuel pump and filter a new distributor and cap all to no avail it's an intermittent problem but today it happened over a dozen times in 2 miles and I had to wait almost 20 minutes just to get it to start once it dies it doesn't want to start back up and act's like it's not getting spark im at my wit's end anybody got any suggestions???

 

What brand are the new parts?

 

the parts were all OEM

 

not an expert...but have owned the same 1996 for 22 years..
Check the wiring to the front O2 sensor for burn or chafing causing a short.
Check your coil...Not just visually, but remove it and see if it is cracked, or just plain time to replace.
Check your fuel pressure with a rail gauge when it has died buy turning the key to on. Replace fuel pump and filter if not in spec.
Check for OBDII codes? are there any?
Remove and clean grounds, check battery cables for corrosion under the insulation.
Check connection and wire going to the cam sensor in the dizzy.
Check connection and wire to front temp sensor on thermostat housing.

Don't throw parts at it, diagnose it..don't be like the stealerships...

hope this helps

 

did you replace your cam sensor/ ignition coil pickup sensor

what about the rotor in the distributor cap.


i had a very similar issue with my 96 jeep and i replaced all the parts you did, every time i replaced a part the jeep would run just fine for a day then after that would not run/start.
wasn't until i replaced the cam sensor, distributor cap, and rotor the problem stopped.

 

Ok I checked everything Bruce said it still stalls out and hard to restart I am beginning to think it's a short in the harness I checked the pcm and it's good and I did get a few codes when I scanned it I replaced all sensors that threw a code with OEM parts bit what throws me off is it only does it when it warms up and it's so random it could be 5 minutes or 30 the coil looks good anybody got any ideas at this point some weird thermal failure or evap issue maybe?

 

if you have a obdII reader, such as a bluetooth dongle and a app like Torque, you may want to see what your temp sensor is sending to the PCM as your coolant temp. If the sensor is failing as it gets hot and throws a overheat signal to the PCM, the Jeep will stop running. Your temp gauge is driven by the sensor on the back of the head with a single wire, the PCM is driven by the front 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing.
If the PCM is receiving the correct temp, you need to check your distributor for excessive shaft play or wobble that would indicate worn bearings and inconsistent timing.
The next possibility is the cam sensor is going bad. That is the round plastic piece in your distributor that is under the rotor. I am not sure how you test that, but I am sure there is a way.
The sensors drive the PCM and ultimately the engine.
You can also check with a multi meter that each sensor is receiving 4.9 volts and that the wiring is not shorted.
good luck!

Also, If you don't have a Factory Service Manual, find the Pacific Coast version for the 1996 Jeep Cherokee and start reading at page 14-24 for a complete understanding of what is running the engine. Online download http://pacificcoastmanuals.com/jeep_...e_manuals.html and it is cheap enough...

 

?

 

Get your battery tested. Check the battery wires. How's the alternator running?

 

Start up fuel enrichment on fuel injected engines

When the (PCM) receives a cold signal from the (ECT) sensor; it increases injector pulse width (on time); to create a richer fuel mixture. This improves idle quality and prevents hesitation, while the cold engine is warming up. But, as the engine approaches normal operating temperature; the (PCM) leans out the fuel mixture to reduce emissions and fuel consumption.

So, a faulty (ECT) sensor that always reads cold may; cause the fuel control system to run rich pollute and waste fuel. Also, a (ECT) sensor that always reads hot may; cause cold driveability problems such as stalling, hesitation and rough idle.

 

Yeah, that's something different than "throwing an overheat signal to the pcm and the engine stops running "...

 

I do believe that "stalling" does fall under the category of the "engine stops running"

but thank you for your opinion.

 

I agree with post number five. My daughter has a 96XJ started dying as soon as it got warmed up. Lucky for me the first thing I checked was a distributor cap and rotor the cam sensor is located underneath that. Replace a sensor that is located with the distributor cap and rotor. The part is not too expensive. Hope this helps.

 

Fair enough, and I appreciate yours! My idea of engine stopping is like driving and suddenly loose complete engine power. I think for trouble shooting it's best to get clear what exactly is happening because different symptoms require different approach sometimes. So that's why I verified what you meant; I read it as this sensor giving a specific overheat signal telling the pcm to shut off, and that's something I never encountered in a car ( and would be horrible from a safety point of view)

On to the issue;
Indeed CAM sensor and CPS can give similar symptoms when going bad.

 

I have the codes it's throwing
po420 catalytic converter
Po123 throttle position sensor A circuit high input
Po108 map sensor circuit high input
Po351 ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit
po300 random misfire
Po301 cyl 1 misfire
Po302 cyl 2 misfire
Po304 cyl 4 misfire
Po305 cyl 5 misfire
What would cause high input on the tps and map sensors?