'96 Cherokee no start when HOT
#1
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
'96 Cherokee no start when HOT
Once again, one of my 2 '96 Cherokees is presenting me with a VERY strange problem.
While delivering mail with it, it will sometimes just stop running with no warning at all. There is no sputtering, hesitation, etc....it will simply stop. I have all electrical power and can immediately begin to crank the engine, but it will usually not restart until it has been off and "cooling" for anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes. When it finally does start, it fires perfectly and will usually not repeat the problem for the rest of that day. At this point, I don't know if this is fuel or spark related. I hear the fuel pump cycle up when I turn the key on, but I have not as yet connected a pressure gauge when I have the problem (thinking of buying one and running the gauge up to the wiper arm to secure it there so I can watch it while on my route). Checking for spark is almost impossible while I'm alone, as I can't crank the engine and be out in the engine compartment with a plug wire laying against the block at the same time. I've tried tapping on the relays in the PDC too, thinking it might be something with the ASD circuit, but this does nothing. It seems like the only way to get it running is to sit and wait for the 10 to 20 minutes to pass. Any ideas as to what I could check?
While delivering mail with it, it will sometimes just stop running with no warning at all. There is no sputtering, hesitation, etc....it will simply stop. I have all electrical power and can immediately begin to crank the engine, but it will usually not restart until it has been off and "cooling" for anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes. When it finally does start, it fires perfectly and will usually not repeat the problem for the rest of that day. At this point, I don't know if this is fuel or spark related. I hear the fuel pump cycle up when I turn the key on, but I have not as yet connected a pressure gauge when I have the problem (thinking of buying one and running the gauge up to the wiper arm to secure it there so I can watch it while on my route). Checking for spark is almost impossible while I'm alone, as I can't crank the engine and be out in the engine compartment with a plug wire laying against the block at the same time. I've tried tapping on the relays in the PDC too, thinking it might be something with the ASD circuit, but this does nothing. It seems like the only way to get it running is to sit and wait for the 10 to 20 minutes to pass. Any ideas as to what I could check?
#3
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 79
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ordered a new CPS from the Jeep dealer in town today; $74 and he says he'll have it tomorrow. I came home to try and find the connector in the engine compartment that is at the end of the CPS harness and I cannot for the life of me find it! I see 4 different connectors all zip-tied together near the oil dipstick. I cut the zip tie to make sure I wasn't missing anything tucked down behind them Disconnected all 4 connectors and none of them looked even remotely similar to the CPS connector that I'm seeing here in the forum or online at any of the auto parts places. Apparently, I should have either a small rectangular or oval shaped connector. Does this thing come up from the bell housing somewhere other than near the wires from the neutral safety switch, etc.?
#4
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 227
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From: Vancouver, Wa
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Ordered a new CPS from the Jeep dealer in town today; $74 and he says he'll have it tomorrow. I came home to try and find the connector in the engine compartment that is at the end of the CPS harness and I cannot for the life of me find it! I see 4 different connectors all zip-tied together near the oil dipstick. I cut the zip tie to make sure I wasn't missing anything tucked down behind them Disconnected all 4 connectors and none of them looked even remotely similar to the CPS connector that I'm seeing here in the forum or online at any of the auto parts places. Apparently, I should have either a small rectangular or oval shaped connector. Does this thing come up from the bell housing somewhere other than near the wires from the neutral safety switch, etc.?
Last edited by mike96xj; 08-15-2013 at 03:19 PM.
#6
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks Mike96xj! Just got home from an outpatient surgery procedure and even while under the influence of anesthesia (I sure wish this lasted longer!) I was able to locate it. I had assumed it would be near all the other connectors on the other side of the engine, but I see it right now....right along the fuel rail. Now I just need to hope that the one the dealer ordered for me has the oval, and not the rectangular connector.
#7
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 79
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And of course my completely inept local Jeep dealer's parts man DID NOT order me the correct part. Even though he asked for the VIN before ordering, he still claimed they showed 8 different crank sensor part numbers for my Jeep. What? I thought that's what the VIN was supposed to be used for. Anyway, he couldn't even bring up photos on his scree so I could show him which one I needed. So here's my question...knowing that both Advance Auto and NAPA have the part in stock here in town, am I better off getting the one from NAPA (it is made by Echlin and I've never had problems with their stuff before) or Advance (made by BWD)? I know....I really wanted a MOPAR sensor, but with this dealership that would mean ordering a sensor per day for the next 8 days and hoping they finally get me the CORRECT one in one of those attempts.
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#8
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 227
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From: Vancouver, Wa
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Wel a lot of CPS's from autozone, napa, oreilys, etc are a lot of hit and miss out the box with a lot of miss. You could save some money if you waited for a mopar CPS rather then settling for a replacement that may not work out of the box.
#9
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's what I'm worried about. Are there any online sources for OEM Jeep parts that are dependable? The thing I worry about too is that when I order something, I can't always compare it with the old sensor that I have in my hands at the time.
#10
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So after a bit of research, I concluded that the MOPAR part number I needed was #56026882. I take this part number to the aforementioned inept parts guy at the local Jeep dealership and he punches it in and says, "I'm showing that number is for a distributor." Wow. Google the number and all you'll see is online retailers selling the CPS. Needless to say, I left there, drove to NAPA....and had the Echlin CPS that cross-referenced perfectly with the MOPAR part number in about 2 minutes. Yeah...I would have liked the MOPAR part, but I needed it sooner than "Cletus" in the parts department could have got it for me. I'm having a mechanic with a lift install it for me on Monday. Hate to have to pay for installation, but I'd spend that much for 38 inches of ratchet extensions and a swivel socket to do the job anyway.
#11
I drove TO the dealer and had the parts guy LOOK at my cps. He's right that there are at least 4 different parts and three different connector styles in '96. It's a fun year for parts for sure.
None in stock. You'd think they'd keep a few on hand? "next day" he says. Fair enough.
Went to pick it up this morning and....wrong part.
Mine has round pins in an oval connector, not flat blades in an oval connector.
NAPA can't get one until Monday. I got the BWD from O'reilley as it was the only thing in town in stock. Runs fine. We'll see for how long.
The Echelin part you got should be fine.
Last edited by Radi; 08-17-2013 at 11:14 PM.
#12
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
LOL Radi! That dealership wouldn't happen to have the initials "RD" would it?
Mine also has the oval connector with the round pins. How in the heck did you get yours replaced? I have a two-tiered garage set-up with long ramps I can drive onto where I can lay under the vehicle with about 2 feet or more of clearance above me. I took one look at those two bolts and realized I was going to pay someone with a lift to do the job for me. I mean hell...when I'm turning the ratchet almost 40 inches back from those bolts because of all the extensions, I wouldn't even be able to see them to get them started when I put the new one in. I'm hoping we're both going to be OK with the after-market parts. I'm not even 100% sure that this was the problem with mine, but I have to start somewhere. As for the parts buying experience, it amazes me that NAPA can bring up a photo of the part AND cross reference it with the OEM part number and get it right the first time when the dealer has no images and has to guess. This particular dealership has rubbed me the wrong way for years. They also sell Toyotas and my '07 Tundra is sitting on 3 recall notices (non life threatening!) that I refuse to let them repair because of their reputation in terms of service. Sucks to drive 20-30 miles for the next closest dealer, but sometimes that's what a guy needs to do.
Mine also has the oval connector with the round pins. How in the heck did you get yours replaced? I have a two-tiered garage set-up with long ramps I can drive onto where I can lay under the vehicle with about 2 feet or more of clearance above me. I took one look at those two bolts and realized I was going to pay someone with a lift to do the job for me. I mean hell...when I'm turning the ratchet almost 40 inches back from those bolts because of all the extensions, I wouldn't even be able to see them to get them started when I put the new one in. I'm hoping we're both going to be OK with the after-market parts. I'm not even 100% sure that this was the problem with mine, but I have to start somewhere. As for the parts buying experience, it amazes me that NAPA can bring up a photo of the part AND cross reference it with the OEM part number and get it right the first time when the dealer has no images and has to guess. This particular dealership has rubbed me the wrong way for years. They also sell Toyotas and my '07 Tundra is sitting on 3 recall notices (non life threatening!) that I refuse to let them repair because of their reputation in terms of service. Sucks to drive 20-30 miles for the next closest dealer, but sometimes that's what a guy needs to do.
#13
How in the heck did you get yours replaced? I have a two-tiered garage set-up with long ramps I can drive onto where I can lay under the vehicle with about 2 feet or more of clearance above me. I took one look at those two bolts and realized I was going to pay someone with a lift to do the job for me.
Jeep dealer here is usually pretty good, I've dealt with them since they were AMC. It does seem unnecessarily confusing the way they have parts referenced.
NAPA only lists three CPS choices for '96, oval connector, enhanced OBDII also oval, or rectangular. Jeep dealer lists 5 or 6 possibilities. Dealer says they're different for an auto or manual, NAPA (and the BWD I ended up getting) say it's the same for either.
Still working today, so far so good.
#14
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Joined: May 2012
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From: WI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got the CPS installed and took the Jeep on the mail route today. No engine dying issues or difficulty restarting whatsoever. I did also throw in a new ignition pickup (the little plate that sits inside the distributor cap) the same day, so I guess I may never know if it was the CPS or the pickup, but at this point I'll be happy if the problem was solved by either one of them. Like Radi said...so far so good!