Long time lurker, newbie here.

I have a 96 Cherokee 4.0L. Over the past few days, I've noticed it sputters when it starts. Now this is something another person would not notice, but I know my girl... This morning I started her with the minor sputtering and made my way to work (23.9 miles). I pulled into the lot at work and it stalled just as I pulled her in the space and would not start (cranks fine).

I pulled the codes with the 'key trick' and pulled a 12 (battery recently disconnected) and 17 (engine running too cool). I waited several hours and she started with some light pedal pumping. She would stay running as long as I had the pedal pressed. I went thothe back and it was running very rich by the smell of the exhaust. When I let go she stalls and won't restart until I let her sit. I know I got the code 12 because I disconnected the battery to replace the starter 6 weeks ago; she's run fine until now (had the battery load tested just before the starter was replaced and all is 5X5 there). The only other work I have done on her in the past year is brakes all around (front disk and rear drum) and an oil change. Looking all over the forums, I want to say the idle air control valve is bad or gunked up. I haven't had the resources to really check it because I am at work.

What do you guys think?

 

Bueller, Bueller...

 

Iac is probably your stutter problem. If she only starts with skinny pedal its a good indicator. Pull it out, hold back the shield and use a tooth brush to clean it off. Id also spray some throttle body cleaner into the tb just for good measure

 

IAC is an excellent idea to check. However it sounds like it's running rich - possibly a leaky fuel injector. Pull out them spark plugs - any look fouled?

 

Always chase the code. Is your check engine light currently ON?

Code 17 is engine stays cold too long which is usually a thermostat stuck open or a coolant temperature sensor failure.

The way your engine is acting, of the two above primary suspects for a code 17, the coolant temperature sensor failure is more suspect.

Without proper input from that sensor, the engine can do some strange things when cold OR warm. The input from the CTS can have a major affect on fuel/air ratio. Test and or replace it.

 

x2 this, if its stuck on open cycle (i think thats what its called...) the motor is trying to run at a higher rpm to warm isnt it? im just taking guesses feel free to correct me lol