Clearwater.

 

A salvage yard head is also an option here, although I'd probably have it gone through by a machine shop before installing it.

Here is a link to the best place I know on the web for salvage parts. Pretty likely you will find a few of these heads right in your neck of the woods. Good luck!

http://www.car-part.com/

 

"Here is a link to the best place I know on the web for salvage parts. Pretty likely you will find a few of these heads right in your neck of the woods. Good luck!"
http://www.car-part.com/

Thanks TJWalker
I used the app you recommended to search the local salvage yards for a 96 - 98 XJ cylinder head. Found one in a local yard 14 miles away. I called ahead and had them pull it and it was ready when I showed up. I purchased the cylinder head and the valve cover for $150



I also found a used windshield wiper valance as mine was cracked along with a nice cargo liner. I'll have to clean up and paint the valence black but it was a good find. He threw the valance and cargo liner in for free.






I have some house projects I'll be working on this Sunday. I'll start putting the XJ back together at the beginning of the week. I'll keep everyone informed of the progress.

 

Glad I could help, best of luck with this head....hope you got a good one; if the machine shop determines that it is not, the salvage yard should absolutely refund your money for it on return.

Keep us posted on how this all goes!

 

I asked the guy at the salvage yard and he said it has a 30 day warranty which gives me enough time to have the Machine Shop x-ray it. He said if it comes back bad that he's got plenty more that he can swap it out with.

 

test to see if thread unsubscription stops emails

 

I know if there was a lower-end problem in the block at Cylinder 6 or an upper end problem in the head at Cylinder 6 it would cause the Cylinder 6 misfire. My question is since the head was cracked, would that cause the additional cylinder misfires?

 

OK, I had the salvage yard head x-rayed and it came back good. I took a chance and installed it without
doing a valve job as it came from a clean, wrecked low mileage 1998 grand Cherokee that was very clean
and it paid off. I now have no engine codes or misfires. The bad news is that I still am getting a check engine
light on and a P1899 code which is the Neutral safety switch. I purchased a new NSS and installed it so I
don't know why its throwing the code.



Not sure what too do now?

 

Good news on the head fixing the majority of your problems.

As for the NSS, what brand did you install / where did you source it? If it's an el-cheapo replacement NSS, it might be dead out of the box. Not uncommon. I like the Mopar NSS for any replacements.

And as for that code, that is for the entire "circuit" which means the sensor itself, the sensor connector and all associated wiring. Inspect all of that very closely.

To confirm: You never had this 1899 code before this head issue? You could have jostled something wiring related during the head repair. Just brainstorming.

 

It's a Dorman 511-103 NSS which is a well known brand

 

It was there originally. I'll check the plug and wiring in the daylight tomorrow.

 

Okay, I checked the plug and wiring harness and all seems good. I tested the voltage and got 13.34 volts back to the PCM so it's getting power from the PCM to the plug and it's a brand new neutral safety switch from the plug to the transmission. The good news is I was able to clear the code, drive to DMV and go through inspection successfully and get a 2-year tag for the Cherokee. The bad news is that the check engine light did come back on for the NSS. Programming. asks if my reverse lights come on and they do. It then asks to check my relay on my starter. Not sure how to test the relay on the starter or why?
Any suggestions?

 

The starter relay and the neutral lockout switch (nss) control the starting solenoid. These two components work together to ensure that the starter operates safely and does not turn the engine over in an unsafe condition.

You can test the starter relay if you want with a voltmeter. Also, I believe you could try swapping in a different relay from another circuit to see if doing this resolves to solve the nss code issue too. If you have functioning windshield wipers. For example, you could pull out the windshield wiper relay and put it into the starter relays spot to see if that helps diagnosis by way of fixing the nss code. Put the starter relay into the windshield wiper relays spot to see if the starter relay is faulty.. If the starter relay is bad it could show by not allowing your windshield wipers to work when you have it placed in the windshield wiper relays location.

If this does not help any to show the potential problem... Then, you may begin to look at the starter relay terminals with a voltmeter to see if it is recieving proper power when you turn the ignition key next.

(edited to add):
I studied a diagram for the starting sequence of events awhile back. I am somewhat obsessed to know all of the ins & outs of this circuit. I really want my vehicles to start. If they ever do not start for me, I want to be aware of the potential reasons as to why.

The diagram it showed me how the electricity ultimately gets produced from the point of initiation by turning the ignition key to draw power from the battery, thru a fuse in this ignition/starter circuitry, and where all the electricity travels after going thru this fuse. The NSS is on it in this circuit, far down the line as one of the final steps in the process. The NSS provides power to ground to allow this circuit to complete its run to turn the crank, or starter... The NSS operates to do this via the starter relay supplying its power.

Is it starting for you still even with the presence of the NSS code though?

 

Yes it starts every time. Short cranking. Only 3 turn overs before ignition. I have done several Jeep YJ builds and have buckets full of fuses and relays to swap out. I'll try swapping out the starter relay to see if it's faulty but if I'm getting good starts I don't see how it could be.

 

I was reading and found this; I think it explains a most appropriate way of adjusting the nss. I copied and pasted what I read:

(copied and pasted):

Adjust the NSS. The smaller bolt is the locking bolt. Loosen it enough that you can pivot the NSS. With the engine OFF and the the tires blocked so the Jeep won't move, put the key to the Run position. Put the trans in Reverse. Slowly pivot the NSS back and forth as you or a helper watches the back up lamps. Watch the NSS and note the point at which the back up lamps come on, and go off, and set the NSS in the middle of those two points. Snug up the small bolt. Test that the NSS does not allow starting in gear and the back up lamps work in Reverse.

(end copy and paste)

I also read that with the symptoms you are describing for having the nss code, but no issues or symptoms upon starting or with the reverse lights.. was that it may also be related to having a bad earthing point, or ground. The two earth ground points mentioned were the ones located in the rear cargo area behind the drivers side panel (behind where the spare tire is sometimes located on some years and models). The other ground mentioned was the one located underneath of the drivers seat. I do not particularly know of any ground located underneath of the drivers seat. There was a report from another Jeep person who stated after they cleaned up the ground located here underneath the drivers seat it solved their nss code issue. An issue that sounded exactly like what you are describing.