dave1123

The best way to remove a heater hose or radiator hose is to twist it to break the bond before you pull in it. If it won't twist easily, try sticking a screwdriver under it or CAREFULLY split it with a knife blade, trying not to scratch the pipe.

96XJ_MrFantastic

Perfect, that's what I was looking for! Thank you.

GreaseMonkey17

MtnGoat

My 92 was loosing enough water where I had to refill the res once a week.
turned out the heater control valve was cracked. I replaced the original valve and not a year later the chinese POS cracked again.
Removed said valve and used barbed connectors to connect those hoses.
No leaks and heater/ac runs just fine.

PatHenry

Personally, I like the worm drive clamps simply because I can get a screwdriver on them more easily than pliers and when they're old and rusty it's easier to break the worm drive ones free. To each their own though.

Definitely eliminate that heater control valve. Not only do the 97+ hoses fit -perfectly- (if you're like me and prefer the moulded hose - regular hose can be used as well), but having coolant moving through and not sitting stagnant in the heater core will preserve it's life and like someone said - it's a 10 hour job (if everything goes well) to replace the core.

96XJ_MrFantastic

After researching it, this is what I'm going to do. My only question is do you go 3/4 to 3/4 and 5/8 to 5/8? That would be simpler but I've read posts and watched videos where people have done both. Does the direction of coolant flow through the core matter?

dave1123

In my opinion the hose from the thermostat housing should go to the lower pipe if they are vertical. That way any trapped air can vent itself upward and out to the water pump. If they come thru the firewall side by side, you need to figure out which one enters the bottom of the core. Doing this with every car I've owned eliminates air blockages in the heater core. Just my opinion.

Jeepwalker

I've done that a number of times over the years. Screw clamps often (not always) leak too. Leak at the gap under the screw. Clamps for silicone hoses seem to have better coverage. I have gone BACK to spring clamps in many cases esp for heater hoses. One mistake a lot of guys make it using a clamp too large for the hose.

PatHenry

There is no downside to eliminating the HCV. If anything the ONLY advantage would be if either 1 - the heater core leaks and you are lazy and don't want to bypass it right away or 2 - If your blend door is super leaky (unlikely)

You can just buy the 97+ heater hoses if you just want to "plug and play" hoses without worrying about sizes.

I did the HCV elimination on my 95 and never looked back - easy peazy - works awesome.

Jeepwalker

It's a small item, but I thought you said it was in fantastic shape. Keep it in good shape. Once you go down the road or bypassing this and that, going cheap on replacing something ...well, then in a few years you realize you own a cobbled up POS. I'm sure most people here disagree with that philosophy though. So disregard this post.

PatHenry

Nothing wrong with that philosophy.

If you do keep the HCV then the only thing I'd suggest is that you make sure that once a week or so in the summertime that you run the heat on full for a few minutes when the engine is at temp to cycle the coolant through the heater core. This is similar to how you should run the A/C (or defrost in modern vehicles) during the winter to cycle the refrigerant so it lubricates the o-rings.

I will say that I had no trouble with my HCV - for me it was the coolant cycling and the multiple reports of problems with the HCV failing that sold me on the elimination. However, that's me - I live in New England and the winters are brutal and our only other vehicle is a Corolla that gets stuck in a couple inches of snow - I like having heat in the Jeep and have plenty of other projects I'd prefer to do than replace a heater core.

As far as "Cobbled together" - I'd view the HCV elimination as more of an "upgrade" type thing rather than a hack. Similar to doing the headlight harness upgrade or following Cruiser's tips if you have a Renix-era XJ. Again, just my own opinion though and other opinions are no less valid. It's your Jeep - advice and recommendations from the forum are simply that - advice and recommendations that you can take or leave as you choose.

96XJ_MrFantastic

I appreciate the advice but I'm not planning on "going cheap" or bypassing anything else. From what I've read, the HCV serves little purpose and the risk of it leaking is large. Later model XJs don't even have the HCV because the factory did away with them. If deleting it will free up engine space, lessen my chance of coolant leaks, and have no drawbacks, then sign me up.

96XJ_MrFantastic

I ordered the '97 heater hoses, new hose clamps, and I went ahead and ordered upper and lower radiator hoses as well. Planning on doing a coolant system flush and then replacing everything with new clamps. Should get my parts and install on Tuesday. I'll let you know how it goes!