BigBearBBQ

Hi guys! Sorry if this is a duplicate post, my first one didn't show up for some reason.

I am helping my buddy get his jeep back on the road. It went for a swim and he began experiencing electrical issues shortly after. (go figure.)
The car was in rough shape. His transmission wiring harness was completely frayed and exposed as well.
I wound up rebuilding his transmission + transfer case from top to bottom. Cleaned up all the electrical work + replaced the TPS.

The car simply won't shift into any gears.

Shifter + linkage move freely into any gear.
Brake lights + reverse lights work.
Car starts fine and adjusts RPM's when it's shifted throughout the column. There is just nothing engaging.
No codes are being thrown.

I'm at a complete loss here fellas. My last guess would be the TCM?
Any ideas?

Thank you so much in advanced!

boxburn

It won't be the TCM as manual gear selection should work regardless of an electrical fault. I'm no expert on the AW4 so all I can say it take a look as the service manual starting on page 7: Document Images (ukrtrans.biz)

awg

Sounds like you know a lot if you can rebuild a trans, but it should work with the TCM uplugged...if it doesnt

I would do 2 things, measure the solenoid resistances from the trans plug/s (but you still should have reverse, it is manually selected...is the cable actuating the lever?)

next step measure trans pressure at port (if that year has a port ?)

otherwise the grim prognosis is something probably aint right with the rebuild

BigBearBBQ

It was showing the exact same symptoms before the rebuild

Thanks for the advice so far guys. I'll keep digging and let you know what I figure out.

lawsoncl

Is it trying to move at all, or acting like it's in neutral? As mentioned, with the TCM unplugged, you should still be able to manually shift with the shifter.

BigBearBBQ

When I unplug the TCM, nothings changes. It will shift from park to neutral & even slide between drive and neutral freely. The engine RPS's adjust when you shift gears, also. There is no engaging of the solenoids and no pressure being shifted anywhere.
I really put a lot of work into the rebuild. I can't think of a point where I went wrong.

Maybe the new Ebay solenoids are simply garbage?
I did get *that* kit on Ebay & they were not the same sizes as the OEM parts. The OEM center solenoid was larger and it had a ground cable. I figured these were just as efficient based off of what I've seen online.
Remember, these exact symptoms were occurring before the whole rebuild.

Are there any vacuum lines that I need to be aware of?

I'll put some hours into it this weekend and keep you guys posted. Thanks!

awg

no reverse excludes the solenoids and all electrical components afaic

double check the FSM, but I think the solenoids are bypassed with the selector lever and TCM disconnected

did you indentify the failed component during the rebuild process ?

what year is it?,

I think they dispensed with the pressure port in '98

recently replaced my AW4 due to no reverse

BigBearBBQ

It is a 1997.

What I discovered during the rebuild process was - somebody had been into that transmission before, but did a half assed job. The pump was installed backwards. 20% of the seals felt "new'ish" the other 80% were rock solid OEM seals. Outside of worn/burnt pads - there was nothing else mechanically wrong with it.

The car was being driven when it finally died on him. He said he felt like he was losing power while giving it full throttle, but it wouldn't go above 30. He had to get it towed home & it sat in his side yard for a year since then.

lawsoncl

The pump drive gear was upside down? Nothing downstream like the xfer case is bound up or not engaging? Cooler lines not pinched? Throttle-body to trans cable is installed and properly adjusted?

BigBearBBQ

Yes, the inner gear of the pump was installed upside down. There is a casing mark (small dot) that tells you which direction it needs to be installed. Oh yeah, I also forgot to mention that I put in a brand new torque converter as well.

Transfer case is completely rebuild and shifts smoothly into every gear. 0 miles on it.
Oil cooler lines are 100% good. Replaced all oil o-rings + plastic snap fittings.
My neighbor and I both messed around with the TB and cables earlier today. Not even a hint of luck.

I'm beginning to think it might be something in the valve body... My neighbor wasn't interested in making the transmission look nice, so I didn't go out of my way to get any of his parts hot tanked. (plz don't get me started. lol)
I'm thinking something might be clogged way in there.
I'm ready to rip that pan off and take apart the valve assembly to see WTF is going on.

No answers today fellas.
Thanks again for the help and support.

BigBearBBQ

I'm half tempted to buy my own project xj and use it as a donor vehicle for the time being. I can probably rebuild and sell the stock drivetrain and make a little bit of profit! Heck ya! I think owning a jeep is going to be a really good financial decision for me!

Roler

Famous last words.

awg

I would be sorely tempted to install a used unit from the wreckers, they are not expensive

this is what I did (private sale, I bought it not long before mine went out, as I was suspicious)

just install a new front seal, guess how I know about that

agreen

There's a copy of the 97 FSM on XJjeeps. It says to do the manual shifting test (sounds like you've already attempted that). If that fails, go to the hydraulic pressure test. It shows a cool picture of how to hook up a pressure gauge and check the pressure. Here's what it says for low pressure (I'm assuming you have low or no pressure)

If pressures in D and Reverse are lower than specified in test, check for following:
• throttle cable loose, worn, binding or out of
adjustment
• throttle valve, downshift plug, or throttle cam
sticking, worn or damaged
• primary regulator valve sticking, worn, or damaged
• oil pump gears or housing worn, or damaged
• overdrive clutch worn, or damaged

BigBearBBQ

I 100% agree. I'll most likely be driving down the hill this week to pick one up. My condolences about the seal. LOL

Boys, I feel like we're starting to make some progress here. Like I mentioned before, the oil pump's inner pump gear was installed incorrectly - which leads me to believe the pump itself isn't getting enough pressure to do it's job properly. I'm planning on disconnecting a cooler line and running it, to see if we're getting any fluids moving. That'll be hopefully later today, I've gotta make a trip down to Newport this morning.

I'll be back.