fb97xj1

So far i have checked the battery, cables, connections, and have started cleaning all the grounds...again. Are there any clues hidden in all that data? I am trying so hard to avoid the dealer but P1698 isnt covered in any of the factory service manuals. Someone said this code can be a real bear on the 97s. Why is that?

EZEARL

See if post #4 will help:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tro...e-p1698-99973/

fb97xj1

I have come across that thread before, but thanks. What does the BUS operational check, exactly? It mentions type of instrument cluster. I know there are two types of clusters, one basic and another with a full set of gauges. Mine is the full set. All lights and gauges work and there is no 'NO BUS' message on the odometer. Steps 4 and 5 do not have any resistance values so i have no idea what to look for without a DRB. Cant say i have one of those. Wish i did as it would be a godsend right now. My DRB consists of a multimeter and some paperclips.


My other vehicle is throwing fits of its own right now as well so its going to be a busy week.

fb97xj1

Took care off all the engine compartment grounds, including the strap to the firewall. That one however gave me on hell of a fight and wound up ripping the nut thru the firewall. I worked the firewall flat as i could and sanded both sides down to bare metal. Then used thick washers to sandwhich the firewall and for better contact. I also replaced the strap with a new one. I found the sheetmetal for G106 concaved a bit so i removed both sets of grounds and pounded the metal back up from the fenderwell for better contact. Again, i sanded it down to bare metal and used a thick washer under each set of grounds. G102 was still good and clean so i left it go. G101 was a nightmare. One nut came right off but the one closest to the radiator was stuck so bad i had to cut the nut off. The studs were in sad shape as the threads were not only rusty as hell but one was missing a thread or two (the one that stuck) so someone else was in there before me at one time. So when you check grounds, dont just look at them like i was doing before, like a rookie. Remove them and check them. I replaced both factory studs using bolts i cut to size, along with the proper nuts. G100 was also sanded to bare metal and a thick washer added for better contact.

Afterwards i checked continuity and resistance of each from one to the other using the eyelets, studs, nuts, each to the battery, etc.. They all read 00.4 if that means anything. I have not reconnected the battery as i plan on checking the interior grounds and checking the circuits to and from the PCM/TCM, so i cant say what the voltage readings are for each ground yet.