97 Jeep Cherokee Country Repower
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Correction
CORRECTION it is a 96 jeep Cherokee Country. I was going off of my son's statement. Nonetheless, I'm fairly certain we pulled the latch off of a 96 and it was not the same design. We actually looked at a 93, 95, 96 and 98 jeep and it was not the same. All of those were identical in design with the long screws. I'll try to get pics tomorrow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Driver-Side-Door-Latch-Actuator-96-95-94-93-92-91-90-89-88-87-/251747291264?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9d4ed080&vxp=mtr
This listing has the short screw setup. That's the first one I have seen anywhere. It is a little steep in price though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Driver-Side-Door-Latch-Actuator-96-95-94-93-92-91-90-89-88-87-/251747291264?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9d4ed080&vxp=mtr
This listing has the short screw setup. That's the first one I have seen anywhere. It is a little steep in price though
Last edited by brobrad; 12-11-2014 at 10:23 PM.
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
96 Jeep no start. We've got her all buttoned up and tried to start it. NO CIGAR. It's a new performance starter that works fine when crossed out. I used my multimeter to discover no voltage to solenoid wire. I traced wire back to harness on top side where it plugs into the main harness. In start position, there's no voltage to the wire. I can temporarily connect 12v directly to the small wire and it will cause the solenoid to engage and engine turns over. Battery was too weak to start. My question is if it is the NSS will that also prevent power to the ignition coil/plug? I may need to check the NSS. The starter relay clicks plus I swapped a couple around just to make sure it was not that. Any other ideas?
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
pics
Okay, I asked my son to take some pics where we could post up what we were doing, but it didn't get any of the suspension. I'll take care of that.
So, here's a few pics of what it looks like and what we have done so far. Sory no pics of the repower. BTW, The engine we put in runs really great.
Ok I now see it won't let me add the pics at the bottom like the other forums I'm on.
We've got the headliner out and ready to re-cover it and are fixing the common issue with the floor rotting out where the muffler heats the passenger floor pan in the rear. We are only roughed in on it right now.
Springs were rotten on rear wheel and the wheel cylinder was leaking. We replaced the wheel cylinder and are now putting all new parts on both rear wheels.
#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Left out the part about the drivers door latch. It seems that there are not very many of those that exist. We did find a new one and got it installed. $100 shipped to my door was painful, but it should be good for a very long time.
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
ALSO, Still need the front upper control arm urethane bushing that the bolt slides through to stabilize it all. If anyone knows where I might find one without having to buy the whole kit let me know.
#21
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine dies when accelerator released
Engine idles fine and runs strong. I am amazed at its torque. However, the engine will die suddenly if I ease off of the accelerator to let it idle. I can goose it and it doesn't die, but if I'm cruising to a stop and let off it will die almost every time. I have cleaned the idle air control and it seems to be fine. In fact I swapped it with the old one to make sure that wasn't the issue. The PCM is supposed to be new??? Could it be a fuel pressure issue? Any suggestions?
#23
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Engine idles fine and runs strong. I am amazed at its torque. However, the engine will die suddenly if I ease off of the accelerator to let it idle. I can goose it and it doesn't die, but if I'm cruising to a stop and let off it will die almost every time. I have cleaned the idle air control and it seems to be fine. In fact I swapped it with the old one to make sure that wasn't the issue. The PCM is supposed to be new??? Could it be a fuel pressure issue? Any suggestions?
#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Throttle body has been cleaned. I'll check for leaks
I'll see if I can find the write up. Thanks
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
#28
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
I have not yet tested the TPS, and did not find a vacuum leak. However, i did pull the vacuum line nearest the firewall on the intake. this resulted in unfiltered air entering the intake, but the engine no longer dies when the throttle is slowly released. I i plugged the hose back up, it would die every time. Perhaps it is the TPS. I was unable to find the test procedure on this forum, but will keep looking.
#29
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Found it
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad
You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!
• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!
• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.