Ok 98 xj sport 4.0L 212k miles. I've owned it for 3 years and have changed plugs, wires, cap, alternator, battery, belt, o2 sensors, and all fluids regurarly. Jeep has been running great for the time I've owned it and up to today.

Ok so driving through a parking lot today, and in mid blink my left blinker starts going double time like the lights out. Then when I stop at a stop sign the idle starts to go down really low and jump like its going to stall, CEL comes on. Then I decide to just go home and the idling continues to become worse and when I get home the power windows wont roll up. I turn the car off and start it a few times it starts up fine then starts running really rough. Decided to try to go to the store to get the CEL read, but cant get out of the driveway because it keeps stalling (at one point I lost power steering) then it would start back up and everything worked again (except windows) but would still run rough. Also started to smell funny like the engine was getting really hot or something. All the interior lights and radio still work just not the windows. Any ideas? Maybe cylinder misfires?

Also, I have had a slow leak of coolant but haven't done anything because it has been running fine and I don't mind filling it up every other month.

Thanks a bunch I'm just kind of lost on this one.

 

Would this be a tps issue?

 

I think the cps would be a better thing to check first.

 

I also read someone who was having problems with the fuel rail and their injectors with similar symptoms. But the electrical issues lead me to believe that it is some sort of sensor.

 

First things I would do:
1. check codes
2. check battery cables/connections
3. have battery tested
4. have alternator tested

 

The CPS wouldn't cause a rough idle. It will cause a hard start, stalling out and a no start. Do like belvedere said. A weak charging system will cause a lot of strange problems.

 

1. Get codes read. I agree with RTorrez1 and belvedere on this one. Get a meter on the battery and see what it reads. With a good charging system and battery, it should read somewhere between 13.5 and 14.0 volts. My guess is that you might see a code 41, which is a failing alternator. Low available voltage can give you the exact symptoms you are seeing. If charging system is working, have your battery "load tested". And yes, inspect and clean all battery connections and engine grounds.

2. FIX that coolant leak! It is not related but know that small leaks can turn into catastrophic leaks in a hurry and then you will have bigger fish to fry like a tow and engine damage. The cardinal rule is this. Tolerate NO coolant leaks.

 

As weird as it sounds, here's what we've found. With doors and trunk open, it runs and everything works (except passenger power window whose regulator I recently replaced and might be part of the issue). With doors and trunk closed, all the lights in the back blinkers included turn on solid (no blinking) and idle isn't as steady. Then if you press the breaks the idle dips way down and it stalls. SO there is something maybe shorting something out in the electrical system causing the whole thing to bog down. More work this weekend.

 

Anyone have anything like this before?

 

Sounds to me like you have some ground connections that need attention.

 

Yup, gotta start with refreshing grounds!! Here's more.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea, and the investment of your time in this procedure is always well worth it!

You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.

Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.

Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.

If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.

 

Thanks guys. This is what ill be doing this afternoon. Haha it was just the weirdest thing though. I'll report back.

 

Fixed it yall!!!! One of the grounds in the trunk on the drivers side was lose so I tightened it and everything was good to go!! Damn that one little wire sent the whole thing for a loop.

 

Yay, you won the battle! Good job!

 

Thanks!