98 Limited lost rear drive shaft
03-08-2019, 10:40 AM
#16
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Since your jeep is leaking fluid from the transfercase and it happened because of the driveshaft coming loose I would be looking for a crack in the case, play in the output shaft meaning the bearing could have been damaged letting the shaft move around in the seal, the seal could've been damaged, or something else. Basically there's fluid on the outside of something that's supposed to hold the fluid inside so I would suggest cleaning it as best as you can, adding fluid and see if you can see where it's coming from. Maybe even just cleaning will show you the damage. I can't say for certain what is wrong without seeing much better/clearer pictures or seeing it in person.
I had an improperly installed u-joint (from a shop nonetheless!) and it caused my driveshaft to come out. I wasn't driving highway speeds, but it was a "high force" event, but it did not result in damage to the t-case. I've driven it several thousand miles and had a Jeep shop inspect it since then.
Hopefully it's just your output shaft seal - there's a good video on replacing this - search youtube for "Bleepin Jeep transfer case output shaft seal replacement" and you'll find it.
03-08-2019, 11:19 AM
#17
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
1. Yes, where the shaft slides on the rear shaft the transfer case is typically lubed. This is the slip yoke that allows the shaft to extend and contract as the rear axle moves up and down. It can be lubed with general purpose automotive grease.
2. Serviceable u-joints (the kind with grease fittings) must always be lubed before put into service. They come with a small amount of lube in them, but should be fully lubed after install. Non-serviceable u-joints (without fittings) are lubed when you get them. Use standard automotive grease suitable for chassis and suspension. The parts store counter person can point you to the right grease, and gun if you don't have one.
3. The transfer case you have should not lose fluid out of the rear output shaft - even when the rear drive shaft is off. That rubber boot is only meant to protect the slip yoke. If it is leaking out of that general location, the tremendous strain it encounter when the rear drive shaft failed probably damaged the transfer case rear output shaft seal. If it is damaged, it will continue to leak until it is replaced. It is also possible that the rear output shaft seal on the transfer case has been failing for some time, and the fluid was mostly collecting in the rubber boot, so that when the rear drive shaft departed - the transmission fluid trapped in the boot came out. I suppose if the boot was very tightly sealed it could hold in the leaking fluid while only loose a few drips here and there (transmission fluid is hard to contain, it tends to get passed things easily).
Did you go back and collect your drive shaft off the road?
2. Serviceable u-joints (the kind with grease fittings) must always be lubed before put into service. They come with a small amount of lube in them, but should be fully lubed after install. Non-serviceable u-joints (without fittings) are lubed when you get them. Use standard automotive grease suitable for chassis and suspension. The parts store counter person can point you to the right grease, and gun if you don't have one.
3. The transfer case you have should not lose fluid out of the rear output shaft - even when the rear drive shaft is off. That rubber boot is only meant to protect the slip yoke. If it is leaking out of that general location, the tremendous strain it encounter when the rear drive shaft failed probably damaged the transfer case rear output shaft seal. If it is damaged, it will continue to leak until it is replaced. It is also possible that the rear output shaft seal on the transfer case has been failing for some time, and the fluid was mostly collecting in the rubber boot, so that when the rear drive shaft departed - the transmission fluid trapped in the boot came out. I suppose if the boot was very tightly sealed it could hold in the leaking fluid while only loose a few drips here and there (transmission fluid is hard to contain, it tends to get passed things easily).
Did you go back and collect your drive shaft off the road?
Since your jeep is leaking fluid from the transfercase and it happened because of the driveshaft coming loose I would be looking for a crack in the case, play in the output shaft meaning the bearing could have been damaged letting the shaft move around in the seal, the seal could've been damaged, or something else. Basically there's fluid on the outside of something that's supposed to hold the fluid inside so I would suggest cleaning it as best as you can, adding fluid and see if you can see where it's coming from. Maybe even just cleaning will show you the damage. I can't say for certain what is wrong without seeing much better/clearer pictures or seeing it in person.
^^^^ This.
I had an improperly installed u-joint (from a shop nonetheless!) and it caused my driveshaft to come out. I wasn't driving highway speeds, but it was a "high force" event, but it did not result in damage to the t-case. I've driven it several thousand miles and had a Jeep shop inspect it since then.
Hopefully it's just your output shaft seal - there's a good video on replacing this - search youtube for "Bleepin Jeep transfer case output shaft seal replacement" and you'll find it.
I had an improperly installed u-joint (from a shop nonetheless!) and it caused my driveshaft to come out. I wasn't driving highway speeds, but it was a "high force" event, but it did not result in damage to the t-case. I've driven it several thousand miles and had a Jeep shop inspect it since then.
Hopefully it's just your output shaft seal - there's a good video on replacing this - search youtube for "Bleepin Jeep transfer case output shaft seal replacement" and you'll find it.
03-08-2019, 11:29 AM
#18
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Also, before I head out, are the rear drive shafts and u joints interchangeable between cherokee models? Don't want to waste my time/money on a shaft I wont be able to use...
03-08-2019, 11:46 AM
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Obviously 4wd vs 2wd is going to be different. A 97+ with the same transmission (manual vs. auto), transfer case (231 vs 242 - If you have Full-time and Part-time 4wd you have the NP242, if just Part-time, it's the NP231) and rear axle (D35 vs C8.25 - Yours -looks- like a C8.25, but the diff covers are distinct - do a google search on axle identification ) should be the same.
03-08-2019, 12:26 PM
#20
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Obviously 4wd vs 2wd is going to be different. A 97+ with the same transmission (manual vs. auto), transfer case (231 vs 242 - If you have Full-time and Part-time 4wd you have the NP242, if just Part-time, it's the NP231) and rear axle (D35 vs C8.25 - Yours -looks- like a C8.25, but the diff covers are distinct - do a google search on axle identification ) should be the same.
The slip yoke is free of fluid and nice and solid in the TC. Looks like someone did a poor rtv job on the TC, or the stress from the shaft breaking loose compromised the rtv seal? And input here?
As feared, I have to strap bolts sheared off on the rear. What course of action should I take here? Extractor bit? Is there a reasonable option if I just drill them out?
Pics of TC leak and situation with the diff.
03-08-2019, 12:45 PM
#21
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I don't believe there is RTV in there... Probably pieces of the output seal.
My bolts sheared off as well, however I had put antiseize on the bolts so they came right out with an easy-out.
You should start soaking the sheared bolts in PBBLASTER now so it has time to work in. Then I'd start with an easy out - make sure you get a punch to center the starting point. If the easy out doesn't work, you can try a left handed drill bit.
On my 95 the bolts go all the way through the yoke, if yours is the same you can drill out the bolts as much as possible and hope you can break the remnants out of the threads - just be careful not to bugger up the threads if you can help it.
Maybe get some plumbers pads or welding blanket and carefully apply heat when using the easy out.
My bolts sheared off as well, however I had put antiseize on the bolts so they came right out with an easy-out.
You should start soaking the sheared bolts in PBBLASTER now so it has time to work in. Then I'd start with an easy out - make sure you get a punch to center the starting point. If the easy out doesn't work, you can try a left handed drill bit.
On my 95 the bolts go all the way through the yoke, if yours is the same you can drill out the bolts as much as possible and hope you can break the remnants out of the threads - just be careful not to bugger up the threads if you can help it.
Maybe get some plumbers pads or welding blanket and carefully apply heat when using the easy out.
03-08-2019, 12:56 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That yoke looks damaged more than just the sheared bolts. There's so much fluid all over the tcase I wouldn't be confident in stating one location the leak is coming from. I would clean it up really good and see if you can tell better.
Last edited by SatiricalHen; 03-08-2019 at 02:29 PM.
03-08-2019, 01:48 PM
#24
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Well, all the drive shafts at pick n pull are dented or bent from moving them. What’s my next best bet? Really don’t want to make this a $300 job.
03-08-2019, 02:22 PM
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by FetusLasVegas
i think that’s just a shiny spot. Looked good while I was down there.
Well, all the drive shafts at pick n pull are dented or bent from moving them. What’s my next best bet? Really don’t want to make this a $300 job.
Well, all the drive shafts at pick n pull are dented or bent from moving them. What’s my next best bet? Really don’t want to make this a $300 job.
This is how it should be.
03-08-2019, 03:48 PM
#26
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I know when I asked to have a driveshaft made for my Comanche which is a lot longer they quoted me "$200 at the worst". I'd like to see another picture or two of the yoke. Attachment 404189
This is how it should be.
This is how it should be.
03-08-2019, 04:06 PM
#27
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It means you have a leak from your transfercase which is caused by something and needs to be addressed, you need a driveshaft (try local part outs on Craigslist or marketplace), and you need to replace the yoke. I've never done that on a crush sleeve axle so I don't know the correct procedure for that.
03-08-2019, 04:54 PM
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Year: 1995
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Ebay will have driveshafts as well.
I might consider just replacing the whole axle. The D35 is known for being much more fragile than the C8.25 - and you can probably get the whole assembly at your local junkyard for the price it would cost you to buy a new yoke and have it installed. Of course, it's a bigger project, but something to at least consider.
I might consider just replacing the whole axle. The D35 is known for being much more fragile than the C8.25 - and you can probably get the whole assembly at your local junkyard for the price it would cost you to buy a new yoke and have it installed. Of course, it's a bigger project, but something to at least consider.
03-09-2019, 11:05 AM
#29
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It means you have a leak from your transfercase which is caused by something and needs to be addressed, you need a driveshaft (try local part outs on Craigslist or marketplace), and you need to replace the yoke. I've never done that on a crush sleeve axle so I don't know the correct procedure for that.
Ebay will have driveshafts as well.
I might consider just replacing the whole axle. The D35 is known for being much more fragile than the C8.25 - and you can probably get the whole assembly at your local junkyard for the price it would cost you to buy a new yoke and have it installed. Of course, it's a bigger project, but something to at least consider.
I might consider just replacing the whole axle. The D35 is known for being much more fragile than the C8.25 - and you can probably get the whole assembly at your local junkyard for the price it would cost you to buy a new yoke and have it installed. Of course, it's a bigger project, but something to at least consider.
I watched a video this morning about replacing the yoke. It seems like a straight forward plug and play replacement where I remove the retaining nut and washer, pull the old yoke, replace, and reassemble. Am I missing something here? I have a small compressor, but no impact wrench. I feel like the hardest part would be breaking the nut free with hand tools.
Lastly, all the junkyards in my area move the vehicles around with a front end loader with forks. I wasn’t able to find any cherokees with a d35 and 242 TC, but even if I had, all of the shafts are either bent or dented to ****. Looks like I’ll have to buy new unless I can find a part out with the proper equipment. Any suggestions on a cheap online retailer for a shaft, yoke, and straps??
03-09-2019, 12:59 PM
#30
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Do online search for VIN decoder and enter your VIN. Should at least show you what was originally installed.