98 Limited lost rear drive shaft
03-09-2019 | 02:21 PM
#31
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 236
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Looks like a D35 - the C8.25 has a flat bottom on the diff.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/do-...ana-44-a-3973/
You can find a driveshaft on ebay. For the yoke, you should be able to find one online at Amazon, ebay, etc
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/do-...ana-44-a-3973/
You can find a driveshaft on ebay. For the yoke, you should be able to find one online at Amazon, ebay, etc
03-09-2019 | 04:53 PM
#32
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 352
Likes: 33
From: Ivory Coast, west Africa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Toyota 2.4l diesel non-turbo
Here is a junkyard search site, if someone hasn't already told you about it.
http://www.car-part.com/
I had a rear driveshaft fall down and drag at 50 mph a few years ago. A tab on
the yoke that holds the u-joint cap in place broke off and when the cap slipped
out a little later, the u-joint soon came out of the yoke. I pulled the driveshaft out
of the transfer case, threw it in the trunk and drove home a few miles in 4Hi.
A welder fixed the yoke so it would last awhile and we put the driveshaft back
on the next day and it was ok. A year or two later I swapped in an 8.25.
http://www.car-part.com/
I had a rear driveshaft fall down and drag at 50 mph a few years ago. A tab on
the yoke that holds the u-joint cap in place broke off and when the cap slipped
out a little later, the u-joint soon came out of the yoke. I pulled the driveshaft out
of the transfer case, threw it in the trunk and drove home a few miles in 4Hi.
A welder fixed the yoke so it would last awhile and we put the driveshaft back
on the next day and it was ok. A year or two later I swapped in an 8.25.
03-09-2019 | 11:29 PM
#34
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,598
Likes: 669
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
how can I be sure about which model axle I have. From what I’ve researched I feel like it’s the d35, but I’m not completely sure. The yoke is stamped spicer, so that leads me to believe d35.
I watched a video this morning about replacing the yoke. It seems like a straight forward plug and play replacement where I remove the retaining nut and washer, pull the old yoke, replace, and reassemble. Am I missing something here? I have a small compressor, but no impact wrench. I feel like the hardest part would be breaking the nut free with hand tools.
to break free a tight nut under a vehicle, with hand tools, put a trolley jack under a breaker bar
a 2 or 3 legged puller can be needed to get the yoke off
03-11-2019 | 02:36 AM
#35
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 278
From: Santa Clarita California
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I would give my old rear drive shaft that I cannot use because I used a hack and tap and now use a front drive shaft in the rear , so now I have the same drive shaft front and rear . I needed to do that because of my 4.5 inch lift .
03-11-2019 | 06:59 AM
#36
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,313
Likes: 377
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
4+ on this. We recently had a discussion about this in 007's thread where he broke a bolt re: the presence of Loctite Blue on the threads. I R&Red my driveshaft yesterday to try to address the Rear XJ Clunk Phenomenon and tried to remove the bolts with and without heat. Without heat, quite a bit of resistance. After heating, removed easily with a 1/4" drive ratchet. That difference will be critical when using Easy-Outs.
03-12-2019 | 06:43 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here is a junkyard search site, if someone hasn't already told you about it.
http://www.car-part.com/
I had a rear driveshaft fall down and drag at 50 mph a few years ago. A tab on
the yoke that holds the u-joint cap in place broke off and when the cap slipped
out a little later, the u-joint soon came out of the yoke. I pulled the driveshaft out
of the transfer case, threw it in the trunk and drove home a few miles in 4Hi.
A welder fixed the yoke so it would last awhile and we put the driveshaft back
on the next day and it was ok. A year or two later I swapped in an 8.25.
http://www.car-part.com/
I had a rear driveshaft fall down and drag at 50 mph a few years ago. A tab on
the yoke that holds the u-joint cap in place broke off and when the cap slipped
out a little later, the u-joint soon came out of the yoke. I pulled the driveshaft out
of the transfer case, threw it in the trunk and drove home a few miles in 4Hi.
A welder fixed the yoke so it would last awhile and we put the driveshaft back
on the next day and it was ok. A year or two later I swapped in an 8.25.
Awesome thanks!!
4+ on this. We recently had a discussion about this in 007's thread where he broke a bolt re: the presence of Loctite Blue on the threads. I R&Red my driveshaft yesterday to try to address the Rear XJ Clunk Phenomenon and tried to remove the bolts with and without heat. Without heat, quite a bit of resistance. After heating, removed easily with a 1/4" drive ratchet. That difference will be critical when using Easy-Outs.
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