Good to hear!!

 

Ok guys it still seems to be clunking. I cant tell if its coming form the rear or not, I stuck my head out the window and stepped on the gas after coasting and got a solid clunk. I checked the u joints in the front axle, definite play in the driver side axle u joint. My question is, could this u joint be causing the clunk when I shift gears and release the clutch as well as when I get on the gas after coasting? Remember this is while im in 2wd, havnt tested it in 4wd yet. Im not getting any grinding or popping, just a sudden clunk/thump. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

 

Nope unless your in 4 or awd...

 

u might check your transfer case fluid. I had lots of clunking, and found that my transfer case was pretty much dry. After a rear seal and some other clips, it seems to be holding fluid and the clunks are gone.

 

Thanks guys il check the t-case next, then move over to motor mounts/trans mount..

 

This was the inside of my driver side motor mount. Couldn't even tell it was bad until I pulled it out. Just letting you know.

 

Im letting the t-case (np231) drain as I type this. Just picked up dex3/merc. Once its done draining il top it off and take it for a test drive. Both driver side and passenger side motor mounts appear to be in good shape looking from the top and bottom. Also, the trans mount doesnt appear to be bad either. Il report back once I take it for a spin. If its still making noise Il pull one motor mount at a time and inspect. Thanks for that picture KJamesJR, id say that mount is no good

 

I changed the t-case fluid and it did not solve my problem. The noise is definatly coming from the rear of the jeep. The rear sway bar bushings looks good, leaf spring bushings arent bad, brand new shocks... The rear leaf shackles are a bit rusted and cracked, not sure if thats the problem. When going over a speed bump or a bump to go into a driveway, you can hear a real slow thump/rubbing from the rear as it flexes. Ordering poly motor mounts tomorrow but I doubt that will solve the issue Im having. Any ideas?

 

I had this same problem with my 98 with a ax15 and cry8.25. My side gears and spider gears were shot in the differential case. You need to check for excessive backlash. Jack up the back end, put it in neutral and rotate the yoke on your diff back and forth. Mine turned almost 1/4 turn before my wheels started to turn. If you can't live with this problem you have a bunch of options. You can get new spider and side gears, but your case can't be worn and the new set has to be shimmed perfect. Or go with a limited slip. I went with a Detroit truetrac and my problem was solved. I hope this helps.

 

Really good info thank you! So tell me, will a locker completly replace the worn parts and also not have to be shimmed? I didnt even think about it but Im totally considering a locker now. Hows yours for city and highway driving? Any mpg difference?

 

Alright guys well I jacked the rear up and gave the yoke/ds a turn. Took a video here of that and the leaf shackles, let me know what you think. If the rear end has excessive backlash instead of replacing the gears Iv decided to go the aussie locker route. If its just the shackles or the springs Il just replace those. - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tS84h...ature=youtu.be
Oh and heres a pic of some wheels I picked up off craigslist last night. Not bad for $50

 

You do have some play in your spider and side gears, but not to bad. I hope you do more research on your choice to go with the lunch box locker. This type of locker has a lot of play built in. A lot of guys say they are not for daily drivers especially on snow and ice. PLEASE DO MORE RESEARCH on this forum before you buy one.

 

Do you think theres enough play to cause the clunk? I did several hours of research, and for the money and reliability Id go with an aussie if the rear end indeed needed work.
Heres one thread about them - https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/aussie-locker-8976/
2- https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f33/aussie-locker-11451/
3- https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/aus...-street-42686/
4- http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...=973715&page=4
Iv read two different people say they have over 100k miles on their rear aussie in the 8.25 with no problems. Just have to coast through turns and thats it! Also adjust driving when it snows.

 

Yes you do have enough play for the clunk. To be sure just pull the diff cover off and look for play in the spider and side gears. You will see a lot of rotation before your axles turn. I am glad you checked out the lockers, so you know they can be moody.

 

If the new leafs, u bolts, and shackles dont help il pull the diff cover and check the gears. I totally see how lockers take some getting used. I think an aussie would be a good choice since its just a little bit more $ than the actual gears needed to replace the worn ones and the aussies are supposed to be very strong. Iv heard most all people say they click around turns but If I dont get a mega thump like I am now id be more than happy.