Replaced ignition switch jeep still won't start and gauges still won't work, when I go to start the jeep I hear the relay click in the kicker panel but nothing happens. I dunno what the problem was to make the PO run a push button start, it was obviously to over ride the issue with it not starting, but what would be the problem.

 

Did you properly butt splice those Yellow and Blue wires before replacing the ignition swictch?

Replace the fuses in the JB that I mentioned above.

 

Yes, those fuses were good but I replaced them anyways.

 

Do you have a picture of the plug going into the ignition switch? Maybe the yellow wire is in the wrong slot, because the PO had it pulled out of the plug and I put it back into the plug to the spot it looked like it should go haha but I'm not sure if that's right. I put it in the top right of the plug but there also is a spot on the bottom left of the plug and there is a male spot on the ignition switch, maybe that is where the yellow plug is suppose to go, instead of top right I really don't know.

 

Replace the following fuses in the PDC:

Fuel Injectors/Coil

Fuel Pump PCM

IOD

 

Did you properly butt splice those Yellow and Blue wires before replacing the ignition swictch?

I'll have to scan the ignition switch pinout diagram, then I'll post it up.

But as a heads up, the Yellow wire goes to the lower left pin socket. as you look at the connector. As a reference, pin 6 at the bottom right has no wire going to it, and pin 5 in the upper left has no wire going to it. Pin 1 in the upper right has a Black wire going to it (Ground). Make sure you get these references correct before inserting the Yellow wire in the connector.

 

Ok I don't need the Pinout diagram thanks any ways, the jeep now starts from the key BUT the gauges still do not work...

 

Weird now with the IOD fuse in, when I turn the ignition off the blower motor doesn't turn off, with IOD fuse out the blower motor turns off when I Turn the ignition off, with IOD fuse out my blinkers won't work with it in they work, I also hear this relay clicking by the headlight switch, not sure if that has anything to do with gauges.

 

I take it that the IOD fuse blow during all this...

It looks like there's a short to other circuits from the IOD fuse, to the point it is interrupting some circuits that are normally powered by the IOD when the ignition switch is OFF, i.e., the Instrument Cluster and Radio. The left and right Courtesy lamps are on the leg of this circuit. Do the Courtesy lamps come on when the ignition switch is off and the driver door is opened? If not, that circuit leg is dead.

Fuse #9 in the JB also powers the instrument cluster when the ignition switch is in the START or RUN positions.

Check the operation of the dome lamps in the cabin and cargo bay with the ignition switch OFF and the driver door open. If they are dead, that leg of the IOD cuircuit is also interrupted. If they do work it looks like the power interruption would be to the instrument cluster/radio leg of the circuit, which may narrow the problem down.

The clicking you hear under by the headlight switch, and the 'blinker' problem sounds like the Combination Flasher. This may be one of those circuits that get unwanted power from the IOD. Pull fuse #12 in the JB and see if the clicking and odd 'blinker' activity stops. Fuse 12 is powered from the RUN bus (ignition switch to RUN).

The HVAC blower running with the ignition switch OFF may be another circuit getting unwanted power from the IOD. The blower relay is powered from fuse 25 in the JB. It too requires the ignition switch to be in the RUN position.

There are two places in all of these circuits that there could be a short from the IOD circuit to these circuits operating with the ignition switch OFF, and other circuits not operating due to an IOD power interruption.

All these circuits go through connector C4 in the JB, and they go through connector C201.

There have been several cases of the JB being corroded, specifically connector C4 (see JB layout above), that have caused mutiple problems like you are seeing. If the JB has ever been under water, or had water leak on to it from rain water getting in the cabin, there could be corrosion on/in the Junction Block. The only way to find out is to remove the cover off the JB and remove connector C4 and see if the pins are corroded (green). There may be evidence of corrosion elsewhere in the JB as well.

If the HVAC Unit was pulled out for some reason, or otherwise someone pulled C201 to dick with the wiring, there could be a problem there. You should check attachment security of the connector, if nothing else. Again, if the Jeep went for a swm, C201 could have corrosion it it.

Do the checks I outlined above and post your results.

Good luck.

 

Fuses were good, when I put fuse 25 in I hear. Relay click behind the glove box, the lamps do not work when I open the door, but for some od reason that little button that would turn the interior lights on when you open the door the horn relay clicks, I have the horns unplugged because they would randomly go off and when I open the door they would go off.. And when I pulled fuse #12 the combination relay will stop clicking, it only clicks when ignition is off when it is on ot stops clicking and I pulled fuse 25 and the hvac blower turned off, also I pulled c4 plug and it was corroded pretty bad, there was dirt/mud all packed in there, so I got eletrical contact cleaner and cleaned the heck out of it with wire brushes.. I also put Dielectric grease on it, plugged it back in.. Turned ignition on and gauges still do not work neither does radio. Maybe the c201 plug is corroded too, not sure where that is though.

 

C4 plug

 

At least you found part of the problem.

You'll have to completely remove the JB and inspect it for corrosion in the connector sockets, relay sockets, fuse sockets, and more importantly, the back side of the JB.

Here's some photos of a corroded JB.







If the JB is corroded like in these photos you'll have to replace it. There's no practical way to remove the corrosion.

If the inside of the wire harness connectors are corroded you may try to remove the corrosion completely, but if you can't the wiring harness for the connector will need to be replaced.

DO NOT use Dielectric grease inside the electrical connectors.

 

Ok cool thanks man, I'll have to pull the jb out later today, and why shouldn't I use dielectric grease?

 

Dielectric grease should only be used on the inner surface of spark plug boots, external light bulb installations, and on the lip of connector rubber weather seals.

Read this carefully and you will see why.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001202.html

I have no idea how the concept of using Dielectric grease on the inside of electrical connectors got started on the Jeep forums but its BS.

I actually got a PM from a forum member that thanked me for clarifying the improper use of Dielectric grease. He had packed his CPS connector with the crap and the CPS didn't work, so after reading about it he removed it and his CPS started working again.

Case closed.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

When you get your JB off take some pics of it, front and back, and post them here.

Thanks.

 

Haha okay, so I pulled the JB out all the plugs are corroded and the back of it is corroded pretty good almost like the pictures you put up just the lower area more, it's not allowing me to upload them right now I will try later, but a wire just broke off on the c4 plug it was all corroded, so I think that is just shot, there is rust and corrosion on the male pins of the c4 spot, so I am going to get another JB and c4 plug and splice the new plug in and see what happens..