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99 Auto-No low/first gear

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Old 05-29-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
Ahh, my issue may have been with the meter setting. I had it on 200 & needed it on 2000.
Anyways, got 626 between 1 & 2, couldn't get anything on 3 & 4.
Was still hard to make good connection on either but didn't even get the flash of a number this time on 3 & 4.

Looks like the OSS is bad or the wiring to the OSS is bad.

Carry on.

Edit: If the OSS is bad, Rockauto has them. Standard Motor Products part number SC121. $83.89.

OEM part number is 4897734AA

If you go to Rockauto.com, type the OEM part number in the 'part number' window then go.

Last edited by CCKen; 05-29-2014 at 01:59 PM.
Old 05-29-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Looks like the OSS is bad or the wiring to the OSS is bad.
Where you say it's tough to change is it still do-able for the average Joe?
I only have drive on ramps & some jobs are okay laying on your back but sometimes I'm better off biting the bullet & sending it to a garage!

Btw, mucho thanks for your help. I'd never gotten this far without it!
Old 05-29-2014, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
Where you say it's tough to change is it still do-able for the average Joe?
I only have drive on ramps & some jobs are okay laying on your back but sometimes I'm better off biting the bullet & sending it to a garage!

Btw, mucho thanks for your help. I'd never gotten this far without it!
Try.
Old 05-31-2014, 09:59 AM
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Having fun yet....

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Old 05-31-2014, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Having fun yet....
I'm actually still debating.
Before I drove this thing for most of the day, taking off in 2nd gear, I didn't have any leaks. Now since it's been sitting a few days there's a pretty good puddle under it. Wondering if I've blown a seal?
A used tranny is $250 with a warranty. I may replace the sensor & still have other problems.
Decisions, decisions...
Old 06-01-2014, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
I'm actually still debating.
Before I drove this thing for most of the day, taking off in 2nd gear, I didn't have any leaks. Now since it's been sitting a few days there's a pretty good puddle under it. Wondering if I've blown a seal?
A used tranny is $250 with a warranty. I may replace the sensor & still have other problems.
Decisions, decisions...
You may be better off replacing the transmission since you now have leaks.

If you have a shop do it make sure they know about what you have found concerning the OSS readings so they can address it.
Old 06-02-2014, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
You may be better off replacing the transmission since you now have leaks.
Just for the helluvit I thought I'd try to get to the sensor even if I have to replace tranny. I figure I can put it back together enough to drive it to the garage.
Getting the linkage bracket out of the way is gonna be a pain. I got 2 of the 3 -14mm (wrench size) nuts off but the only way to get the last one will be a 1/4" drive 14mm socket & I don't have one. I can't get a Gearwrench or combo wrench in there & a 3/8 drive ratchet is too big.
It's gettin' personal now....
Old 06-03-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Having fun yet....
Looks like the connector had been siliconed before.
I get no ohm's when checking the terminal, not even continuity.
Is that a good sign it's bad?

.
Old 06-03-2014, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
Looks like the connector had been siliconed before.
I get no ohm's when checking the terminal, not even continuity.
Is that a good sign it's bad?

.
That thing is trash. Get a new one from Rockauto. The part number is posted above think.

Reading resistance of the sensor it should be around 625 Ohms.
Old 06-03-2014, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Reading resistance of the sensor it should be around 625 Ohms.
Yea I'm gonna get one & run it a while longer if I can.
A used trans is $250, garage wants $300 to install & put in new front & rear seals, filter & flush it out. Probably not a bad deal but gonna put it off a while if I can. I can always put the OSS in the new tranny & maybe not go through this again.
Hopefully it'll be easier to put back together than it was to get it out!
Old 06-05-2014, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
That thing is trash. Get a new one from Rockauto. The part number is posted above think.
Reading resistance of the sensor it should be around 625 Ohms.
Didn't work. Still no low gear.
Checked new OSS, 646 ohm's I believe.
Anything else I can check?
Old 06-05-2014, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
Didn't work. Still no low gear.
Checked new OSS, 646 ohm's I believe.
Anything else I can check?
Did you check the pin cavities in the OSS connctor for being corroded and enlarged. And check the wiring at the connector?

Have you read the resistance of the new OSS from the TCM connector (like before)?

Edit: Have you tried driving and shifting manually with the TCM disconnected? If you don't have 1-2 when shifting manually there's a defect in the trans.

Last edited by CCKen; 06-05-2014 at 03:37 PM.
Old 06-05-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Did you check the pin cavities in the OSS connctor for being corroded and enlarged. And check the wiring at the connector?
Yes, looked good

Originally Posted by CCKen
Have you read the resistance of the new OSS from the TCM connector (like before)?
No, just on the unit itself. (but will)

Originally Posted by CCKen
Have you tried driving and shifting manually with the TCM disconnected? If you don't have 1-2 when shifting manually there's a defect in the trans.
Another haven't tried but will. Didn't know it would do this & was actually afraid to run it without TCM connected.
Old 06-05-2014, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ltljon
Yes, looked good


No, just on the unit itself. (but will)


Another haven't tried but will. Didn't know it would do this & was actually afraid to run it without TCM connected.
Here's the manual shift test from the FSM:

MANUAL SHIFTING TEST
(1) This test determines if problem is related to mechanical or electrical component.
(2) Stop engine and disconnect transmission control module or module fuse.
(3) Road test vehicle. Shift transmission into each gear range.

Transmission should operate as follows:
  • lock in Park
  • back up in Reverse
  • not move in Neutral
  • provide first gear only with shift lever in 1–2 position
  • operate in third gear only with shift lever in 3 position
  • operate in overdrive fourth gear in D position.
(4) If transmission operates as described, proceed
to next step. However, if forward gear ranges were
difficult to distinguish (all feel the same), or vehicle
would not back up, refer to diagnosis charts. Do not
perform stall or time lag tests.
CAUTION: Do not over speed the engine during the
next test step. Ease off the throttle and allow the
vehicle to slow before downshifting.
(5) Continue road test. Manually downshift transmission from D to 3, and from 3 to 1–2 position. Then manually upshift transmission through forward
ranges again.

(6) If transmission operation is OK, perform stall, time lag and pressure tests. If transmission shifting problem is encountered, refer to diagnosis charts.
(7) If a problem still exists, continue testing with DRB scan tool.
Old 06-05-2014, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCKen
Have you read the resistance of the new OSS from the TCM connector (like before)?

! & 2, 3 & 4, both tested 6 something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCKen
Have you tried driving and shifting manually with the TCM disconnected? If you don't have 1-2 when shifting manually there's a defect in the trans.

In Drive, felt like it wanted to take off in 3rd, 1 & 2 were same, just 2nd. Still no 1st.
Yee freekin haw...
What were the odds the internals & the OSS would go at same time.


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