Out of phase, sorry. As in, "I found an image of CPS/CKS out of phase".
I am suggesting one cannot tell if they are out of phase or sync, as the scope is not triggering internally, or via either channel, or externally, when NO TRIGGER is selected.

 

Well, at the risk of resorting to the "Can so!" strategy of debate, both I and the aforementioned poster collected valid data without triggers, utilizing rising edge and Auto Mode.

 

the picture says "Trigger Source: No Trigger", not Auto. Do you see where it says that or can we not agree on that either.

 

Thanks for your contributions to this thread.

 

When probing wires, is some thing poking into the wire?

 

only if you cant back-probe the connector. You can buy "needle probes" to do this, or just use safety pins & alligator clips

To make it clear, backprobe the connector externally from the rear if possible,

probing the wire by piercing the plastic shield works fine, but it may diminush the overall integrity of the the wire eventually
so should be avoided if possible,

if done, seal the tiny hole with adhesive

Please refresh us on the reason you are chasing this fault so hard, being as it runs fine ?

 

I'm hunting because in 12 years I haven't had a CEL that stays steady. This little booger has been prevalent and unwavering since it's existence. It runs fine, but this code should not be, I have kept and maintained thus vehicle very well over the years and this is very unusual. What I can believe based on my experience with this vehicle is that it's definitely try to tell me something is wrong, and it's NEVER done so unless some thing is.
Based on what I have checked visually its in great shape, minus this CEL. The continuity showed good, the supposed diagnostic good. Wiring visually good. Timing chain has some play but does it ever not? I'm not sold on this or any other mechanical issue as of yet, it's just a gut feeling with this vehicle.

In my time replacing components I've done very well in diagnosing and replacing accordingly myself, but my god nothing has ever run me for so many hurdles as this code.

I do believe my next move will be to buy a ckps. Because this code persists it very well suggests a backup is a great idea if it doesn't solve the issue. I'm not feerling this is cmps yet because it starts after a while with the old one.

Correct me if I'm wrong but this issues is only possible from:

. Tone ring/ flex plate shutters damage
. Wiring
. Sensors
.pcm

Original ckps went 180000 miles, if a Mopar replacement works only 2 yrs I'm going to **** myself on why anyone would ever continue to fork out this coin lol.


Simply said I continue to learn and fix this vehicle because of something that should not be, but it exists.
There IS a reason, what that is....

 

I thought you may be from a State that runs a scan, and wont pass MOT, as I believe may exist in some USA States

If that is NOT the case, I would simply cease and desist, carry a spare cam & crank sensor, and drive on

 

After the new crank sensor went in, did the 1391 disappear for any amount of time?

Yeah, not a big fan of that. I use T-pins:



and slide them into connectors.

Doing more wire checking? From your manipulation of wires up there it sounds like a wire issue in the harness someplace.

Can you get a hold of a laptop? Hantek has another model 6022BE for only 59 bucks. It only has 2 channels, but is a screamer at 48MSa/s:

 

My state does if I Bring it in. There are road side testers I can drive by also, if I can find them.


Also the code showed up a long way after adding a ckp, it wasn't replaced because of this code.

 

Hi @Dave51 & others

What do you think of this 2 channel Hantek multimeter/scope ?

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/h...illoscope.html

I do need another multimeter since my 30yr old Fluke croaked, my backup died also, down to an el cheapo

If you could cast yr beady eye over the specs, 2 channels is pretty handy, no laptop needed

all opinions welcome

OP might be interested in such a tool ?

 

It certainly has a lot of power (Bandwidth 70MHz, Sample Rate, 250MSa/s) so it would avoid the lock-ups and aliasing I get with mine (although through fiddlement I can eventually get what I need); got 50% more memory than me (6K vs. 4K)(depends on how much data you really want to save); the screen is probably too small to analyze waveforms (although you can hook it up to a laptop); and 2 channels is kind of limiting (I would think at least 4, but one really needs to ask if that's more of a convenience rather than a necessity)(as in my image where I showed all 4 O2 sensor tracings simultaneously, or if you want to see the 3 coils at once, or whatever combos you're interested in).

Up to the OP, but IMO one still would need the secondary ignition probe, AC/DC current clamp and an attenuator which will add another 100 bucks or so; 1008C has more channels and at least an ignition probe; and 1008C has 20+ preloaded testing screens so it's far easier to use for the novice diagnostician (it includes such things as reminders to use the attenuator when checking coils and fuel injectors lest you smoke the box).

From a practical point of view, I don't think it's a good idea to put the oscilloscope on the multimeter that I would be using to test stuff in potentially harsh environments.

 

Replaced wiring harness and still this infernal code, but at least I know the condition of the harness now.

 

How about getting the 6022BE?

 

It's on the list.