99 PCM replace/update
#61
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Not so fast grasshopper.
I find it impossible to believe that a "bad" PCM's only problem is that it's getting a bad crank/cam signal. Or forgot what the baseline is.
So I would do one more thing. Pull the PCM apart and check the soldered connections to make sure they are solid. I believe there are 3 (crank, cam, and the ground is common)(on 2000 anyway).
I find it impossible to believe that a "bad" PCM's only problem is that it's getting a bad crank/cam signal. Or forgot what the baseline is.
So I would do one more thing. Pull the PCM apart and check the soldered connections to make sure they are solid. I believe there are 3 (crank, cam, and the ground is common)(on 2000 anyway).
To be clear I have a 99, why are we concerned with where the TCM is located?
#62
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Not so fast grasshopper.
I find it impossible to believe that a "bad" PCM's only problem is that it's getting a bad crank/cam signal. Or forgot what the baseline is.
So I would do one more thing. Pull the PCM apart and check the soldered connections to make sure they are solid. I believe there are 3 (crank, cam, and the ground is common)(on 2000 anyway).
I find it impossible to believe that a "bad" PCM's only problem is that it's getting a bad crank/cam signal. Or forgot what the baseline is.
So I would do one more thing. Pull the PCM apart and check the soldered connections to make sure they are solid. I believe there are 3 (crank, cam, and the ground is common)(on 2000 anyway).
a time vs $ equation for the OP to consider
The TCM discussion arose as a side issue, as it was mentioned a pre-97 PCM may work for you, I replied giving my reason why i thought not
#63
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I agree with you that a wiring/solder/harness issue is more likely than PCM..it will cost $187 to check that, and OP will have a spare PCM...or it will be fixed
a time vs $ equation for the OP to consider
The TCM discussion arose as a side issue, as it was mentioned a pre-97 PCM may work for you, I replied giving my reason why i thought not
a time vs $ equation for the OP to consider
The TCM discussion arose as a side issue, as it was mentioned a pre-97 PCM may work for you, I replied giving my reason why i thought not
- follow through with PCM replace as the diagnostic suggests
- try a new ckps even though mine reads that it's working.
Now intermittent loss is wiring related, But ive done point to point reading from each sensor to pcm, and grounds, and grounds to battery grounds, test light on battery shorted circuit test. Continuity reads very well even while jiggling wires. If it's wiring guys I'm lost on where to turn next. If they made replacement harnesses ide have likely tried it.
What do you all suggest, is it safe to bend the PCM open?????
#64
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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So, I picked up a JY pcm today 20$ matching# from a 99.
Disconnected the battery started right up, but seemed to run slightly rougher. CEL wasnt on, let it warm up to operating temp, shut it down, restarted and the CEL comes back. muthaaaaF____r. Not happy about that lol
So NOW what in the world woukd you do next. Thus far I wrote the shop explaining their mechanics theory and it not eliminating the CEL have tried a new comp.
#65
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[QUOTE=4x4jeepmanthing;35611
So, I picked up a JY pcm today 20$ matching# from a 99.
Disconnected the battery started right up, but seemed to run slightly rougher. CEL wasnt on, let it warm up to operating temp, shut it down, restarted and the CEL comes back. muthaaaaF____r. Not happy about that lol
So NOW what in the world woukd you do next. Thus far I wrote the shop explaining their mechanics theory and it not eliminating the CEL have tried a new comp.[/QUOTE]
If you have the same code you may have an intermittent, or weak wire or connector.
If you research the OBD code thrown, and it indicates that an OPEN circuit or high value can be the cause
I did find a sensor fault on an Isuzu Trooper this way, turned out a female pin in the connector harness was pushed back a bit
In the instance of not being able to locate the problem in the harness, what I would consider is this;
make backprobes with 5amp wire and safety pins, identify the relevant suspect wires from the circuit diagram...piggyback them...see if the problem go away
I admit this is time consuming & challenging
So, I picked up a JY pcm today 20$ matching# from a 99.
Disconnected the battery started right up, but seemed to run slightly rougher. CEL wasnt on, let it warm up to operating temp, shut it down, restarted and the CEL comes back. muthaaaaF____r. Not happy about that lol
So NOW what in the world woukd you do next. Thus far I wrote the shop explaining their mechanics theory and it not eliminating the CEL have tried a new comp.[/QUOTE]
If you have the same code you may have an intermittent, or weak wire or connector.
If you research the OBD code thrown, and it indicates that an OPEN circuit or high value can be the cause
I did find a sensor fault on an Isuzu Trooper this way, turned out a female pin in the connector harness was pushed back a bit
In the instance of not being able to locate the problem in the harness, what I would consider is this;
make backprobes with 5amp wire and safety pins, identify the relevant suspect wires from the circuit diagram...piggyback them...see if the problem go away
I admit this is time consuming & challenging
#66
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If you have the same code you may have an intermittent, or weak wire or connector.
If you research the OBD code thrown, and it indicates that an OPEN circuit or high value can be the cause
I did not see if it was the same code, it came on identical to how it had originally, I thought safe bet its p1391 still
I did find a sensor fault on an Isuzu Trooper this way, turned out a female pin in the connector harness was pushed back a bit
In the instance of not being able to locate the problem in the harness, what I would consider is this;
make backprobes with 5amp wire and safety pins, identify the relevant suspect wires from the circuit diagram...piggyback them...see if the problem go away
I admit this is time consuming & challenging
If you research the OBD code thrown, and it indicates that an OPEN circuit or high value can be the cause
I did not see if it was the same code, it came on identical to how it had originally, I thought safe bet its p1391 still
I did find a sensor fault on an Isuzu Trooper this way, turned out a female pin in the connector harness was pushed back a bit
In the instance of not being able to locate the problem in the harness, what I would consider is this;
make backprobes with 5amp wire and safety pins, identify the relevant suspect wires from the circuit diagram...piggyback them...see if the problem go away
I admit this is time consuming & challenging
Would this back probing complicate sensor grounds going from sensor straight to pcm vs anywhere it originally splices in the regular harness?
Here is what i ran through for continuity and signal/supply tests:
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 06-18-2019 at 12:03 AM.
#67
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You are eliminating as many bad connectors as possible..so as close to PCM and sensor as possible
Continuity test will not eliminate an intermittent open, due to bad wire, connector, solder
an intermittent short would mean having to cut the main wire (once its piggy backed)
the bad "wire" could be earth, positive or sensor wires
Following a logical path if it isnt the PCM, you have tried other crank & cam, it must be the wires
(unless it does in fact have chain stretch )
did you say your truck runs well and has no symptoms ?
this would be very indicative of a temporary dropout of signal
Continuity test will not eliminate an intermittent open, due to bad wire, connector, solder
an intermittent short would mean having to cut the main wire (once its piggy backed)
the bad "wire" could be earth, positive or sensor wires
Following a logical path if it isnt the PCM, you have tried other crank & cam, it must be the wires
(unless it does in fact have chain stretch )
did you say your truck runs well and has no symptoms ?
this would be very indicative of a temporary dropout of signal
#68
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You are eliminating as many bad connectors as possible..so as close to PCM and sensor as possible
Continuity test will not eliminate an intermittent open, due to bad wire, connector, solder
an intermittent short would mean having to cut the main wire (once its piggy backed)
the bad "wire" could be earth, positive or sensor wires
Following a logical path if it isnt the PCM, you have tried other crank & cam, it must be the wires
I replaced ckps for it shut my jeep down while driving 1.5yr ago, cmps was replaced in effort to fix this code about 1 year ago.
(unless it does in fact have chain stretch )
I will test thus tomorrow, 7 degree the maximum play it can have I've read
did you say your truck runs well and has no symptoms ?
it starts right away, drives fine.
this would be very indicative of a temporary dropout of signal
Continuity test will not eliminate an intermittent open, due to bad wire, connector, solder
an intermittent short would mean having to cut the main wire (once its piggy backed)
the bad "wire" could be earth, positive or sensor wires
Following a logical path if it isnt the PCM, you have tried other crank & cam, it must be the wires
I replaced ckps for it shut my jeep down while driving 1.5yr ago, cmps was replaced in effort to fix this code about 1 year ago.
(unless it does in fact have chain stretch )
I will test thus tomorrow, 7 degree the maximum play it can have I've read
did you say your truck runs well and has no symptoms ?
it starts right away, drives fine.
this would be very indicative of a temporary dropout of signal
is there anything ground wise that I should recreate like pigtail to motor and pcm? I have a bunch of 16g wire I can use.
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 06-18-2019 at 05:12 AM.
#69
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to be clean can I build my wires connect directly to sensor and feed these into the PCM plug, I'm to bypass the harness completely yes? And one at a time ide imagine?
is there anything ground wise that I should recreate like pigtail to motor and pcm? I have a bunch of 16g wire I can use.
is there anything ground wise that I should recreate like pigtail to motor and pcm? I have a bunch of 16g wire I can use.
Yes to one at a time. Clearly you need to be sure on which wire is which!...you seem to have that info.
If the sensor has an earth wire to the PCM, that has to be duplicated..each wire to the suspect sensor/s
start, check CEL, try again
I have personally used this method to find some weird electrical faults
If your truck starts and runs perfectly, I do not see how it can be the crank or cam sensor
(all subject to you checking the chain slack, I think you can remove the dizzy & rotate the engine to check)
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Yes, a few months back I swapped engines. In doing so I reused the 99 flex plate, I looked it over very close for cracks which I did not find. All torque converter bolts are quite tight. The bottom bolts of trans to engibe were torqued, the top two I just gave hell, probably much more than needed lol.
As for the cam pulse ring I replaced the distributor just In case, which still hasn't changed anything.
As for the cam pulse ring I replaced the distributor just In case, which still hasn't changed anything.
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I am suggesting making piggyback wires with safety pins to probe the connectors. So the original & piggyback will be in place..(unless a short is suspected)
now while im doing this, in the instance a short is suspected- this is noticed by removing one wire at a time until CEL returns/goes away?
Yes to one at a time. Clearly you need to be sure on which wire is which!...you seem to have that info. yes i do
If the sensor has an earth wire to the PCM, that has to be duplicated..each wire to the suspect sensor/s what if an earth is spliced somewhere in the harness?
On the rear dipstick tube, two wires crimp to one ring terminal, the front ignition coil ground has two ring terminals with two wires in each. the diagram does not help trace these, which is why i ask if i pull ground from sensor to pcm,Will that be sufficient?
start, check CEL, try again
I have personally used this method to find some weird electrical faults
If your truck starts and runs perfectly, I do not see how it can be the crank or cam sensor
(all subject to you checking the chain slack, I think you can remove the dizzy & rotate the engine to check)
now while im doing this, in the instance a short is suspected- this is noticed by removing one wire at a time until CEL returns/goes away?
Yes to one at a time. Clearly you need to be sure on which wire is which!...you seem to have that info. yes i do
If the sensor has an earth wire to the PCM, that has to be duplicated..each wire to the suspect sensor/s what if an earth is spliced somewhere in the harness?
On the rear dipstick tube, two wires crimp to one ring terminal, the front ignition coil ground has two ring terminals with two wires in each. the diagram does not help trace these, which is why i ask if i pull ground from sensor to pcm,Will that be sufficient?
start, check CEL, try again
I have personally used this method to find some weird electrical faults
If your truck starts and runs perfectly, I do not see how it can be the crank or cam sensor
(all subject to you checking the chain slack, I think you can remove the dizzy & rotate the engine to check)
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 06-18-2019 at 05:44 AM.
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