What bolts will fit the front wheel bearing hub? Gonna prolly destroy all 6 when doing the job n the stealership wants $7! a bolt! Don't care on the head size.

 

$7/each from the dealership is not all that bad really. (Wait till you try to find J-bolts for your fuel tank straps at about $30/each - then we can talk about bad!).

Here is an aftermarket option:

Dorman 917-509 Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts
by Amazon.com
Learn more:
And these ones are a bit more like factory:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...xt-_prd-143296

I think I used the ones from quadratec. I can't remember if I bought 6 new ones, or just a few to replace the worst bolts on my vehicle.

This also happens to be one of the those rare larger OEM bolts that can be replaced with a standard bolt - which I found at ACE hardware. But standard bolts will not have the unique thread to shoulder ratio that the factory bolts have. Which in this particular case didn't hurt anything. But ultimately, I replaced them with something more similar to the OEM bolt. I don't recall the fastener length, diameter, or thread pitch off hand any more I'm afraid.

 

You can buy standard Grade 8 Trusshead bolts at any industrial supply house and you pay for them buy the pound. Trussheads are ones that have a washer-like shoulder underneath the hex part. The OE bolts are 12-point which are supposed to be easier to torque, but they are harder to remove if they've been damaged.

 

My first time getting the hubs off my zj was a nightmare. Talk about frozen rusted stuff wow. Yes you will destroy both the bolts, and badly.. Like Dave said you can get Grade 8 bolts at home depot, which is just what I did and some washers too. Half an hour ago I replaced both the hubs for about $50, 10yr guarantee. By now it's easy, done it so many times. Used the same replaced bolts. Pays to have a propane torch on hand, a good hammer, and a chisel to drive in between the hub and the spindle. Lots of Blaster!!!!!!! Lots of heat! Most of all, patience, be careful, and 6 point sockets (check that I think that's the problem, the OE are a funny..think maybe 12 point? which makes NO sense) and even then the heads might round off like mine did. Might help to leave the bolts in a bit and hit them to break the hub loose. 75-80 ftlbs on the 3 back bolts and 175 on the 36mm.

 

If you use a new, good quality 12-pt 13 mm socket you should stand a good chance of getting them out safely. Anti-seize the daylights out of 'em when you put them back in.

 

Because there's a good chance of getting out rusted 20 year old bolts torqued at 80ft lbs with a 12 pt socket.

 

There's sure a better chance if you used anti-seize than if you didn't.

 

Oh yea. I have a bottle. Lathered my new hubs up today as a matter of fact (which, being tight and new, amplified the warped rotor I have so I just clicked on a couple of those for good measure). You basically want to coat that hub everywhere it makes contact. After the first time the rest are 'easy'. And they come out for every U joint and ball joint.

Not to hijack the thread but does anyone know if they sell those little steel clips that go over the notches that get worn into the spindles? I welded mine up last time but they seem to have notched ..again.

 

Especially since the bolt design prevents you from using anything else but a 12 pt. 13mm socket.

 

Which I did, and then it stripped. 11 of the 12 points were disintegrated with rust anyhow. But I'm sure the parts store appreciated my purchase of that nice new 12pt socket. So then I pounded on an impact socket and heated the hub where the bolt goes in with my propane until it was red, and it came out. All 5 of them . One did actually come out with the 12 pt though.

 

A helpful tip if the OP runs into the same issue.

 

Make sure you get the right ones; there was a mid-year change in 1999 for the hubs and rotors.

 

You can access the threaded end of the bolts on the hub unit for PBBlaster and heating purposes. I've never had an issue getting them out with the proper socket and a standard breaker bar.

Also, once you have those bolts out, (and since they come out for so many things, they're extremely unlikely to have been untouched for 20 years), put a deep socket on one of them, threaded a few turns into the hub and use the power steering on the Jeep to push out the hubs. This will get the old hubs out in minutes and will save you hours of frustration trying to chisel the crap out of your steering knuckle. It's a well documented tip, so google it and there will be pictures and detailed instructions.

I second (or third as it were) anti-seizing the heck out of the hub->knuckle contact points. You'll thank yourself for it over and over the next time you need to remove the hubs - and there WILL be a next time.

 

Quadratec sells new hub bolts, so I imagine you can find replacements there or at Rockauto or on Amazon. I do agree that $7/e isn't bad at all. I paid just shy of $20 (and had to drive clear through Boston to the closest dealership that had it in stock) for the tiny bushing sleeve/alignment pin that sits between the engine block and the transmission bell-housing.