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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
How old is the radiator ? it mite need to be replaced it could plugged up so much that a flush is not going to clean it .
Could be as old as the jeep itself. I actually just purchased one that should be here Thursday. Got that and a thermostat. What do you guys think about CSF rads? This site and others seem to like them.
Stop leak is also great at plugging up radiators. Have you verified that the torque converter is locking up? If it's not, that'll add a lot of heat to the radiator.
I had rusty crap come out of my radiator the 2 times I flushed it chasing an overheat problem. I had already done EVERYTHING else: Mechanical fan, water pump, thermostat and housing, lower and upper hoses, back flushed the system, used a flushing liquid with distilled water, replaced the head gasket. I did not approach the problem methodically. Before I replaced the radiator, I did two tests which lead me to believe I had a restricted flow through the radiator.
Good luck finding the problem! I ended up buying and installing the inexpensive Car Quest brand single row radiator from Advance. Now, in this south Texas heat, my XJ hangs steady at 205* under any condition. Previously, I had the same trouble you are facing, minus the snow part. ;-)
Todd
Last edited by MrTodd; 06-20-2022 at 11:03 AM.
Reason: added info
- I got a standard replacement CSF radiator. Should be two row. I got a "high flow" thermostat because it's easy to replace and an extra $2 for a high flow part. The thermostat is 180 degree.
- I'm not certain about the torque converter locking up. Not sure how I could verify that. This is going to open up a whole new can of worms, but I've been experiencing a check engine light with code P0740(Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit/Open Circuit Malfunction) since I got the Jeep last Sept. I tried my hand at diagnosing it for months with no luck. No negative symptoms I've noticed so I've sort of put it on the back burner for now.
- I'm pretty sure my fan shrouds are in place. I've included a few images with this post that should confirm that.
RockAuto receipt for radiator, thermostat, and thermostat housing gasket Engine bay(front) Engine bay(drivers side) Engine bay(passenger side)
I'm not certain about the torque converter locking up. Not sure how I could verify that. This is going to open up a whole new can of worms, but I've been experiencing a check engine light with code P0740(Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit/Open Circuit Malfunction) since I got the Jeep last Sept. I tried my hand at diagnosing it for months with no luck. No negative symptoms I've noticed so I've sort of put it on the back burner for now.
A quick check would be to drive along at highway speeds with steady throttle, and lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot. You should see the rpm jump a few hundred rpm when the t/c unlocks. If you're getting P0740, I would start by measuring the solenoid resistance and inspecting the wiring harness. Replacing the solenoids isn't hard, just messy dropping the pan. $60-$70 bucks gets you the set of 3 solenoids from Amazon. You don't need the filter, just rinse the old metal screen with some brake cleaner. Only moderately snug on the pan screws (7-ft*lbs) so you don't strip them or deform the pan.
If you were not getting lockup and no codes, I would suggest say check the brake switch, NSS, and TPS, although that usually causes issues with when it shifts.
Hey! I tried driving along highway speeds and applied the break with my left foot. The RPMs did indeed jump up a few hundred. Thank you for the information on testing and replacing the solenoids. Solid advice!
I replaced the radiator and thermostat this past weekend and I've got some good news! The new radiator seemed to fix the problem. I had the A/C cranked and I was really getting into it going up a long patch of interstate from Salt Lake City to Park City(80E). Temp stayed below the tic mark after the 210 mark. This was only going up the steep hill during the test. Before this fix, it would have boiled over and overheated halfway up that stretch. As soon as I crested the top, the temp went back below the 210 mark and stayed that way. I feel pretty confident the new radiator fixed my overheating issue.
On another note, I experienced engine sputtering and a new code on the way back from testing the new parts. P1391 which basically pointed me at the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Got one of those ordered last night. Will be the next new part installed on the XJ.
06-19-2022, 03:48 PM
