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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Follow the directions. Blue hose to blue valves (both ends). Red hose to red valves (both ends). Blue is low, red is high. Make sure the valves on the manifold are CLOSED. I would open the valves on the couplers (part the snaps onto the AC lines) before you connect them to the ac lines. They are just posts that depress the Schrader valves inside the AC port. Once you lock the couplers on, you can make sure they are on securely. Then slowly turn them clockwise (low first) to make sure you have no leaks. Then do the high side. Again, make sure the valves on the manifold are closed or you'll lose refrigerant.
It's OK to connect everything with the engine/ac off. If you do, both gauges should read about the same pressure (make note of the different ranges on the gauges). Once you start the AC, you should see the low side drop, and high side climb. Let the AC run (like agreen said) for a few minutes and record the pressures. If you have one, you can use a instant read thermometer in the center dash vent to record the outlet temp.
When you're ready to disconnect, turn the valves on the couplers counterclockwise to close the Schraders. You can then disconnect the hoses. You may hear a hiss as any trapped pressure in the hoses bleed off.
Follow the directions. Blue hose to blue valves (both ends). Red hose to red valves (both ends). Blue is low, red is high. Make sure the valves on the manifold are CLOSED. I would open the valves on the couplers (part the snaps onto the AC lines) before you connect them to the ac lines. They are just posts that depress the Schrader valves inside the AC port. Once you lock the couplers on, you can make sure they are on securely. Then slowly turn them clockwise (low first) to make sure you have no leaks. Then do the high side. Again, make sure the valves on the manifold are closed or you'll lose refrigerant.
It's OK to connect everything with the engine/ac off. If you do, both gauges should read about the same pressure (make note of the different ranges on the gauges). Once you start the AC, you should see the low side drop, and high side climb. Let the AC run (like agreen said) for a few minutes and record the pressures. If you have one, you can use a instant read thermometer in the center dash vent to record the outlet temp.
When you're ready to disconnect, turn the valves on the couplers counterclockwise to close the Schraders. You can then disconnect the hoses. You may hear a hiss as any trapped pressure in the hoses bleed off.
The yellow hose is used for charging.
Thanks for this.... I think I did it right, but don't know what the readings mean for the unit.
This picture right here tells me it's a bad compressor. It's not making enough suction and not pumping the high side pressure up high enough.
Usually, this means the compressor has shot a lot of shredded material into your whole system.
To replace a compressor, you need to get:
-compressor
-orifice tube
-receiver/dryer
-several cans of brake cleaner
-access to compressed air
-a vacuum pump
-the proper oil for your system
-the proper amount of refrigerant
-an o-ring kit
-ac quick disconnect tool
You will need to remove the orifice tube and receiver/dryer and shoot cans of brake/parts cleaner in both the evaporator and condenser. Give them a good soaking, then blow them out with compressed air into a clean rag. Repeat until the brake cleaner comes out CLEAN. Install the new parts with new o-rings (lubricated by the oil). Add the correct amount of oil to the lines. Draw a vacuum on the system. Charge refrigerant into the low side (you might have to jump the low pressure switch to get it to take a charge initially).
Well, this is what you should see. Refer to the column that comes closest to the outside air temp when you did this.
Did the compressor cycle on and off as you tested? When you said low side was 10/65, was it actually 10 when the compressed kicked in and 65 when the clutch disengaged?
Well, this is what you should see. Refer to the column that comes closest to the outside air temp when you did this.
Did the compressor cycle on and off as you tested? When you said low side was 10/65, was it actually 10 when the compressed kicked in and 65 when the clutch disengaged?
Yeah it was 10 when it kicked and 65 when it disengaged.
This picture right here tells me it's a bad compressor. It's not making enough suction and not pumping the high side pressure up high enough.
Usually, this means the compressor has shot a lot of shredded material into your whole system.
To replace a compressor, you need to get:
-compressor
-orifice tube
-receiver/dryer
-several cans of brake cleaner
-access to compressed air
-a vacuum pump
-the proper oil for your system
-the proper amount of refrigerant
-an o-ring kit
-ac quick disconnect tool
You will need to remove the orifice tube and receiver/dryer and shoot cans of brake/parts cleaner in both the evaporator and condenser. Give them a good soaking, then blow them out with compressed air into a clean rag. Repeat until the brake cleaner comes out CLEAN. Install the new parts with new o-rings (lubricated by the oil). Add the correct amount of oil to the lines. Draw a vacuum on the system. Charge refrigerant into the low side (you might have to jump the low pressure switch to get it to take a charge initially).
Yeah it was 10 when it kicked and 65 when it disengaged.
Hold up.
Something sounds odd here. That is backwards. At least it should be.
Do me a favor and see if you can load that video to youtube or something. I can't open that video for some reason. I'd like to see it in real time before calling it a bad compressor.
If it was 10 with the compressor running, it sounds like you're still low on refrigerant. Did the compressor cycle (on/off) fairly quickly? The only way to make sure you have the correct amount of refrigerant is to evacuate and refill by weight. A proper fill will also help reduce the cycling.
You could try adding some more, but as discussed earlier, those "DIY" cans only check low side. If you have a leak, you should focus on finding and fixing it. Some R-134a has leak detector in it. Don't buy the stuff that claims to seal leaks.
Something sounds odd here. That is backwards. At least it should be.
Do me a favor and see if you can load that video to youtube or something. I can't open that video for some reason. I'd like to see it in real time before calling it a bad compressor.
Guessing he has an iphone since it's an MOV file. I was able to see it using a different player than the default Windows.. The needles do move as the compressor cycles. Off, the high drops to about 125 and the low climbs to 65ish. Once the compressor kicks in, the high climbs to about 160 and the low drops to about 10. It cycles on/off about every 4 seconds It's like due to the low pressure cutoff.
Something sounds odd here. That is backwards. At least it should be.
Do me a favor and see if you can load that video to youtube or something. I can't open that video for some reason. I'd like to see it in real time before calling it a bad compressor.
Mate I might have it backwards...LOL
Here is what another member said:
"Guessing he has an iphone since it's an MOV file. I was able to see it using a different player than the default Windows.. The needles do move as the compressor cycles. Off, the high drops to about 125 and the low climbs to 65ish. Once the compressor kicks in, the high climbs to about 160 and the low drops to about 10. It cycles on/off about every 4 seconds It's like due to the low pressure cutoff."
Sorry I am learning as I go.
Cheers!
Last edited by Cutty; 08-30-2022 at 12:32 PM.
Reason: Got the answer.
If it was 10 with the compressor running, it sounds like you're still low on refrigerant. Did the compressor cycle (on/off) fairly quickly? The only way to make sure you have the correct amount of refrigerant is to evacuate and refill by weight. A proper fill will also help reduce the cycling.
You could try adding some more, but as discussed earlier, those "DIY" cans only check low side. If you have a leak, you should focus on finding and fixing it. Some R-134a has leak detector in it. Don't buy the stuff that claims to seal leaks.
Guessing he has an iphone since it's an MOV file. I was able to see it using a different player than the default Windows.. The needles do move as the compressor cycles. Off, the high drops to about 125 and the low climbs to 65ish. Once the compressor kicks in, the high climbs to about 160 and the low drops to about 10. It cycles on/off about every 4 seconds It's like due to the low pressure cutoff.
08-29-2022, 01:37 PM
