add a leaf vs. blocks?
#18
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 3
From: Houston Tx.
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just look at your profile and if you're still running those stock wheels you will not be able to use 3 inch blocks unless you remove your rear sway bar, the end of the sway bar will hit the tire if you don't.
#19
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: MIAMI, FL
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Personally i would stay away from blocks. On my old truck i had them on the front and rear, went mudding and the axle wrapped and snapped my leafs. IMO i would say bastard pack.
#21
"Have you ever seen a leaf spring wrap into an "S" shape when you press on the accelerator? Blocks with old stock leaf springs simply is a problem waiting to happen. We don't give the worst case scenarios, we give advice to avoid what can be a potential problem in the future so they don't waste their money."
cant say i have ever seen a straight six wrap a leaf spring up, id love to see it i you could show me one.
"shackles are to *help* correct rear sag and pinion angle. AAL's are a band-aid. blocks are for rednecks, or for absolute POS trail beaters destined for the scrap yard after one more run."
id put my POS against your POS anytime
cant say i have ever seen a straight six wrap a leaf spring up, id love to see it i you could show me one.
"shackles are to *help* correct rear sag and pinion angle. AAL's are a band-aid. blocks are for rednecks, or for absolute POS trail beaters destined for the scrap yard after one more run."
id put my POS against your POS anytime
I walked right up it with my tj but the yj behind me got stuck and needed winched. Next came the xj with 2" lift blocks and acos front spacers running 32's with badly messed up fenders. The front end got up on the hill and it was flexed out. When gunned it the pinion moved around 4" up and down as he hit the accelerator. The leaf spring was no where near arched like it should be when this was happening. It was a renix era xj with worn springs.
here's an example of what it looked like:
#22
Im currently running a 2" block and they work however not the greatest.. Be easy on the skinny peddle and you be ok. However the do make ur spings want to arc the wrong way after time.. Im going to be bastard packing my truck soon its really easy and probably your best bet to keep cost down.. btw im 18 on a college budget so I know how it goes!
#24
Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I gotta to add my 2 cents. Although I have never used blocks before, I do have the Zone off-road 3" AAL kit, and I've had it installed for about a year now. And I have no visible sagging at all. I'm very pleased. I also have been off-road about every weekend for the past summer. Just my 2 cents.
I'm also looking to add 2", possible shackles, but I'm not sure yet, still looking at options.
Good luck with your build, and keep in mind that this will be a huge, and good learning experience for you in the world of Jeep, as it has been for me.
Can't wait to see the finished build.
J
I'm also looking to add 2", possible shackles, but I'm not sure yet, still looking at options.
Good luck with your build, and keep in mind that this will be a huge, and good learning experience for you in the world of Jeep, as it has been for me.
Can't wait to see the finished build.
J
#25
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: lawrence KS
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i have no experience with blocks or aal.. i went with 2" shackles which installing (im on day 3) is a PAIN.. have to replace all 4 leaf spring bushings and to be honest i sure wish i bought a AAL or blocks for that matter..
#26
#27
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: lawrence KS
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah on all 4 bushings the sleve around the bolts are seized so i have to destroy the bushing and the bolt to get the leaf springs out. i dont know if this has happened to anyone else but its one of the biggest pain in my ***** ive ever experienced when it comes to what i thought was going to be a simple mod. but what can i expect its never is as easy as you first assume.. im going to post pictures of the complete job when im finished. hopefully by the end of thanksgiving break. my pocket book it empty by the time this is done.
#28
yeah on all 4 bushings the sleve around the bolts are seized so i have to destroy the bushing and the bolt to get the leaf springs out. i dont know if this has happened to anyone else but its one of the biggest pain in my ***** ive ever experienced when it comes to what i thought was going to be a simple mod. but what can i expect its never is as easy as you first assume.. im going to post pictures of the complete job when im finished. hopefully by the end of thanksgiving break. my pocket book it empty by the time this is done.
#29
given the proper prep to replace rear springs, you'll get them out w/o replacing the bushings, and w/o wrecking the nut inside.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.
#30
given the proper prep to replace rear springs, you'll get them out w/o replacing the bushings, and w/o wrecking the nut inside.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.