add a leaf vs. blocks?
11-22-2009, 09:11 PM
#31
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the front leaf spring bushing bolts need to be blasted with pb blaster (WD40 doesn't work) from every point you can access.
there is a hole in the bottom of the frame rail that allows you to spray directly onto the bolt threads inside the rail.
this needs to be done for days, or weeks, prior to attempting to remove the rear leaf.
doing this will allow the bolt to be removed without breaking the nut (which is tac-welded to the inside) almost every time...there is no guarantee that you won't break the welds holding that nut, but it's a good bet that you'll be able to remove it.
then, you should use a breaker bar and just work it back and forth, little by little, until it comes out. get the PB blaster in every nook and cranny you can.
if you don't do this, and your xj has a little bit of rust on it, chances are you'll break the tac-welds on the nut inside the frame and then the only solution is to either cut a hole in the floor to get at the nut inside the frame, or cut a hole in the bottom of the frame to get at the nut. this brings the suck.
there is a hole in the bottom of the frame rail that allows you to spray directly onto the bolt threads inside the rail.
this needs to be done for days, or weeks, prior to attempting to remove the rear leaf.
doing this will allow the bolt to be removed without breaking the nut (which is tac-welded to the inside) almost every time...there is no guarantee that you won't break the welds holding that nut, but it's a good bet that you'll be able to remove it.
then, you should use a breaker bar and just work it back and forth, little by little, until it comes out. get the PB blaster in every nook and cranny you can.
if you don't do this, and your xj has a little bit of rust on it, chances are you'll break the tac-welds on the nut inside the frame and then the only solution is to either cut a hole in the floor to get at the nut inside the frame, or cut a hole in the bottom of the frame to get at the nut. this brings the suck.
11-22-2009, 09:58 PM
#32
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the front leaf spring bushing bolts need to be blasted with pb blaster (WD40 doesn't work) from every point you can access.
there is a hole in the bottom of the frame rail that allows you to spray directly onto the bolt threads inside the rail.
this needs to be done for days, or weeks, prior to attempting to remove the rear leaf.
doing this will allow the bolt to be removed without breaking the nut (which is tac-welded to the inside) almost every time...there is no guarantee that you won't break the welds holding that nut, but it's a good bet that you'll be able to remove it.
then, you should use a breaker bar and just work it back and forth, little by little, until it comes out. get the PB blaster in every nook and cranny you can.
if you don't do this, and your xj has a little bit of rust on it, chances are you'll break the tac-welds on the nut inside the frame and then the only solution is to either cut a hole in the floor to get at the nut inside the frame, or cut a hole in the bottom of the frame to get at the nut. this brings the suck.
there is a hole in the bottom of the frame rail that allows you to spray directly onto the bolt threads inside the rail.
this needs to be done for days, or weeks, prior to attempting to remove the rear leaf.
doing this will allow the bolt to be removed without breaking the nut (which is tac-welded to the inside) almost every time...there is no guarantee that you won't break the welds holding that nut, but it's a good bet that you'll be able to remove it.
then, you should use a breaker bar and just work it back and forth, little by little, until it comes out. get the PB blaster in every nook and cranny you can.
if you don't do this, and your xj has a little bit of rust on it, chances are you'll break the tac-welds on the nut inside the frame and then the only solution is to either cut a hole in the floor to get at the nut inside the frame, or cut a hole in the bottom of the frame to get at the nut. this brings the suck.
11-22-2009, 10:06 PM
#33
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's what I thought. I used Aero Kroil, which is alot stronger than PB, a week before and sprayed it every day. I used almost the entire can. My nuts were fine when I loosened em but the bolt was seized to the metal sleeve in the bushing and nothing could be done about that except cutting them off. It just spun inside the rubber bushing. Once I cut through the leaf spring, bushing, and metal sleeve and split it open a little, the bolt came right out. I don't think any penetrating oil can beat 7 years of salty roads.
I've had that happen on my MJ...luckily, I got it to spread enough to put a sawzall in there and cut the bolt. then I used a center punch to hammer the bolt out and salvaged the bushing
11-22-2009, 10:22 PM
#34
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's what I would have done if I had a sawzall. Unfortunately I only had a cut off wheel. It worked though but I wouldn't do it again cuz that flying melting rubber ain't fun to clean off......
11-22-2009, 10:32 PM
#35
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had the benefit of having an MJ as well...sawzall the bolt on both sides of spring, and the bolt head and nut fell off. on an xj you'd then have to scratch your head on how to get the remainder of the bolt out of the frame...
11-23-2009, 08:36 AM
#37
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
"Have you ever seen a leaf spring wrap into an "S" shape when you press on the accelerator? Blocks with old stock leaf springs simply is a problem waiting to happen. We don't give the worst case scenarios, we give advice to avoid what can be a potential problem in the future so they don't waste their money."
cant say i have ever seen a straight six wrap a leaf spring up, id love to see it i you could show me one.
cant say i have ever seen a straight six wrap a leaf spring up, id love to see it i you could show me one.
like everyone else is saying, save up for a couple more months and get the full pack... if you don't, you'll be wishing you'd listened to all these guys that have been doing this for years on here.
Last edited by Donnie_K; 11-23-2009 at 08:46 AM.
11-23-2009, 12:29 PM
#38
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
given the proper prep to replace rear springs, you'll get them out w/o replacing the bushings, and w/o wrecking the nut inside.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.
it should take an hour per side on the front bushings to get them out properly.
if you just go at it to pull the front leaf bolts out, you'll either break the bolts, or break the nut loose inside the frame rail...that's no good.
please do even though its too late in my case i would love to know what if anything did i do wrong...
11-23-2009, 12:34 PM
#39
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's what I thought. I used Aero Kroil, which is alot stronger than PB, a week before and sprayed it every day. I used almost the entire can. My nuts were fine when I loosened em but the bolt was seized to the metal sleeve in the bushing and nothing could be done about that except cutting them off. It just spun inside the rubber bushing. Once I cut through the leaf spring, bushing, and metal sleeve and split it open a little, the bolt came right out. I don't think any penetrating oil can beat 7 years of salty roads.
11-23-2009, 12:44 PM
#40
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i would never use blocks on any rig unless they were the blocks that came from the factory on like say a pick-up. but i would never lift a vehicle using blocks.
11-23-2009, 03:51 PM
#43
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would never trust blocks on anything you plan on actually wheeling with and AAL's are cheap, but I've yet to see a set that didn't sag after a few months.
11-23-2009, 06:31 PM
#45
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
He did quite a few times. It held up alright. I guess it's the stiffer dodge ram springs that make it do-able.
He has 35's on it now so I'm sure it'll stress out the springs more.
He has 35's on it now so I'm sure it'll stress out the springs more.
Last edited by muddeprived; 11-23-2009 at 06:34 PM.