Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Advice on my first XJ purchase - 200k miles

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-20-2024, 03:12 PM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
graybox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Advice on my first XJ purchase - 200k miles

Hello all,

First post here. Im in the market for an XJ, ideally 97-99. Im in the northeast so most of the listings I've come across have a ton of rust or pretty rough maintenance history. After watching FB marketplace for a while, a listing posted up for a 98 with 190K miles. I had originally limited my searching to 150K miles, but this one in particular has caught my eye. It's coming from south of where I am and theres virtually 0 rust on it. It appears that it's been very very well maintained by a jeep enthusiast. He doesn't have service records because he's done the work on his own, but it looks very clean in every way. He's asking around 5500. Im wondering if the 200k milage range is something to shy away from. It seems like from what ive read regular maintenance is much more important than low milage. Id love to get a second opinion and see what you all think about this particular vehicle at this price. Images from the listing are attached.

Thanks!!






he said this is when he did the valve cover and shows no signs of build up which is proof of consistent maintenance. I wouldn't know what im looking at if im honest.

Last edited by graybox; 06-20-2024 at 03:15 PM.
Old 06-21-2024, 07:11 AM
  #2  
Newbie
 
andjones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Posts: 28
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

I think that is an OK price considering your location (in the rust belt). I recently purchased my rust free XJ with 114k miles for $6300 and I traveled from Minnesota to Arkansas to buy it. There should be plenty of life left in that XJ at 200k miles. Parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. It looks like it has a small lift.

You will learn more about how the vehicle has been maintained by observation and driving it than from the owners statements. I would check and see what kind of lift it is (new springs or spacers and shackles). New springs are preferred. Have you driven it? How does it feel? Vibration, clunking, loose steering? What does the tire wear look like? How does the engine start and run? Transmission shift solid? Does 4wd work? Brakes OK? If all of the basics check out I'd buy it.

You can easily get another 100k miles on the drivetrain. You will have maintenance items to get it that far. Just imagine how nice it will be to wrench on a rust free vehicle. Take it from me, it a pleasure
Old 06-21-2024, 08:46 PM
  #3  
CF Veteran
 
bluejeep2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 1,325
Received 270 Likes on 221 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 98 stroked 4.7
Default

If you can, go underneath the passenger side front floor, do a thorough inspection of the floor right above the exhaust pipe...first place everything starts to rust. If its clean, you got a great machine
The following users liked this post:
graybox (06-21-2024)
Old 06-21-2024, 10:10 PM
  #4  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
graybox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by andjones
I think that is an OK price considering your location (in the rust belt). I recently purchased my rust free XJ with 114k miles for $6300 and I traveled from Minnesota to Arkansas to buy it. There should be plenty of life left in that XJ at 200k miles. Parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. It looks like it has a small lift.

You will learn more about how the vehicle has been maintained by observation and driving it than from the owners statements. I would check and see what kind of lift it is (new springs or spacers and shackles). New springs are preferred. Have you driven it? How does it feel? Vibration, clunking, loose steering? What does the tire wear look like? How does the engine start and run? Transmission shift solid? Does 4wd work? Brakes OK? If all of the basics check out I'd buy it.

You can easily get another 100k miles on the drivetrain. You will have maintenance items to get it that far. Just imagine how nice it will be to wrench on a rust free vehicle. Take it from me, it a pleasure

Id have to travel 5 hours or so to even see the car so I’m basically trying to make as close to a decision as I can via talking to the seller and assessing pictures. I really want to go down there with the intention of driving it home. It does seem to be the most well maintained example I’ve been able to find in the price range.

he said the lift is an add-a-leaf in the rear and 2inch coil spacers up front. Again I’m not much of a car guy and I’m not sure if this changes anything maintenance wise but I think it looks really great. The no rust is tempting and I would like to learn how to work on things here and there as I have 0 experience working in cars.
Old 06-22-2024, 06:05 AM
  #5  
CF Veteran
 
That Jeep Guy XJMJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,286
Received 346 Likes on 289 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Default

From everything I've read and seen soo far this looks like a very modest jeep and to your favor not molested in a poor way.

Another thing to consider - how long has the jeep been for sale? It would be one thing to say potentially the price is steep and thats why its not gone already or potential buyers have found something they didn't like and walked away.

Has the seller answered all your questions or requests? I would ask for pictures of the inner side of the rear lower qtr panels. That big piece of plastic trim below the fender flare is notorious for hiding a rusty mess. There is also a section of unibody rail that is prone to cracking, just below the fuel filler door at the unibody you will see where the filler hose passes through a cutout, the thin section at the very bottom is the problem area, if the metal around it is in good shape this can be easily plated over or repaired.

there's plenty of other little things to investigate but I don't think they are big deal breakers soo for now the rust free and running condition of the drivetrain would be my main concerns for the drive.
The following users liked this post:
graybox (06-22-2024)
Old 06-22-2024, 11:35 AM
  #6  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
graybox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thanks for the replies. im going to see the jeep on Monday if its still for sale after he has a couple people see it this weekend. I have a feeling it may sell.

im talkting to another person that has a 99 with 130,000 miles. her listing says minimal rust, but the photos look pretty rusted to me. she seems pretty firm at 4000. says its been well maintained and the only thing that doesn't work are the interior lights. what do you make of this photo, is this too much rust to overlook?






here's the exterior




Last edited by graybox; 06-22-2024 at 11:38 AM.
Old 06-22-2024, 06:46 PM
  #7  
awg
CF Veteran
 
awg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,520
Received 654 Likes on 558 Posts
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

That looks superficially ok, but I would want more underside pics to be sure

surface rust on the bottom looks like salt roads

however if you have to cut stuff out, like the door, that soon adds up time or money wise

how good are you at body repairs ?

if repairs are needed, I always offer a lower price...near to $1k for that rust, maybe $500
Old 06-22-2024, 08:56 PM
  #8  
CF Veteran
 
That Jeep Guy XJMJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,286
Received 346 Likes on 289 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Default

I honestly feel stupid for saying it but if it's not obvious I would confidently say the lower qtr of that entire white jeep was rattle can bedlined for the simple purpose of hiding rust. Don't be surprised if you pop those doors open to see a distastful amount of rust on the inner lip of those doors.

Be especially attentative to the rear door sills around and under the plastic trim as those can be decievingly "ok" looking.

this is the biggest turn-off for me when it comes to buying another XJ, from the clowns who know nothing - will hide anything they can - lie and require the premium market price for a polished turd. To the poorly molested and miss represented "Offroad Rig" on clapped out - cheapest lift configuration they can muster, im rather hard pressed to trust people anymore.

It's become my ideal criteria to only consider stock unmolested jeeps anymore. Thats not to say people can't be trusted but D@mn is it challenging to find really good people now days.

Regardless - keep sending those interesting finds our way and we can keep chipping in those pennies for you
The following 2 users liked this post by That Jeep Guy XJMJ:
country2 (06-27-2024), graybox (06-23-2024)
Old 06-23-2024, 12:27 PM
  #9  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
graybox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by That Jeep Guy XJMJ
I honestly feel stupid for saying it but if it's not obvious I would confidently say the lower qtr of that entire white jeep was rattle can bedlined for the simple purpose of hiding rust. Don't be surprised if you pop those doors open to see a distastful amount of rust on the inner lip of those doors.

Be especially attentative to the rear door sills around and under the plastic trim as those can be decievingly "ok" looking.

this is the biggest turn-off for me when it comes to buying another XJ, from the clowns who know nothing - will hide anything they can - lie and require the premium market price for a polished turd. To the poorly molested and miss represented "Offroad Rig" on clapped out - cheapest lift configuration they can muster, im rather hard pressed to trust people anymore.

It's become my ideal criteria to only consider stock unmolested jeeps anymore. Thats not to say people can't be trusted but D@mn is it challenging to find really good people now days.

Regardless - keep sending those interesting finds our way and we can keep chipping in those pennies for you

all great stuff to know. Thank you!!

im going to look at this one now and can’t figure out why it’s so low priced. Seller says it runs great and has minimal rust. Thoughts on this one?

Facebook Post

Old 06-23-2024, 02:35 PM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
That Jeep Guy XJMJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,286
Received 346 Likes on 289 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Default

Originally Posted by graybox
all great stuff to know. Thank you!!

im going to look at this one now and can’t figure out why it’s so low priced. Seller says it runs great and has minimal rust. Thoughts on this one?

https://www.facebook.com/share/WmMQu...ibextid=79PoIi
I only found the one you meant to link because of this quote... May be my phone that didn't load the link but im guessing your asking about this one?




Looks alright, if thats right in your price range go check it out and give it a test drive


I couldn't help but notice this one though...

No idea where your actually at but based on the one above - proximity search through marketplace Id be curious about the overall in person condition of this one?
I'm from MI so we don't have to fight emissions but for the price of a new catalytic converter (aftermarket?) And some potential brake parts and fluids. Thatd not a bad price for the mileage especially if its not rotten

Old 06-23-2024, 10:26 PM
  #11  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
graybox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by That Jeep Guy XJMJ
I only found the one you meant to link because of this quote... May be my phone that didn't load the link but im guessing your asking about this one?




Looks alright, if thats right in your price range go check it out and give it a test drive


I couldn't help but notice this one though...

No idea where your actually at but based on the one above - proximity search through marketplace Id be curious about the overall in person condition of this one?
I'm from MI so we don't have to fight emissions but for the price of a new catalytic converter (aftermarket?) And some potential brake parts and fluids. Thatd not a bad price for the mileage especially if its not rotten

not sure why the link didn't work but thanks for the detective work and recommendation! I am looking for something that's more or less turn key ready as I don't have a garage at the moment, and want to drive the car as soon as possible. that one does look interesting for the right buyer though.

I looked at the black one I posted above and unfortunately wasted my entire day believing a dishonest seller. it was in horrible condition and he proceeded to let me get in and test drive the car without working breaks. I don't even know how he got the car to the location he met me. I had to pull up on the E-break at full strength to get it to stop at 20mph or so. I should have known based on the price, but did not expect that level of a bucket. live and learn lol.

here's yet another listing to run by you. it feels almost as good as the original red 98 I posted, which ended up selling before I could get to it for 5K

im now looking at a 2001 with 55,000 (!!!) original miles. the seller said he purchased the car at an auction and it was previously a government vehicle that sat for long periods of time, thus the low milage. im not sure ive even seen one on the market at this low milage. I was trying to hold out for a 98 or 99, but im wondering if im crazy not to jump on this. the only thing he says is wrong with it is that driver door will not lock at all. everything else works so im assuming its a bent rod in the locking mechanism. is this a relatively cheap fix? Here are photos of the car and the listing as it reads. he's asking 6000$, but is willing to hear offers. thoughts?









Last edited by graybox; 06-23-2024 at 10:41 PM.
Old 06-24-2024, 03:48 AM
  #12  
CF Veteran
 
That Jeep Guy XJMJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,286
Received 346 Likes on 289 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Default

I'd be curious behind the carpet and floor pan but otherwise same rules apply... look for rust in that unibody from under the vehicle
Old 06-24-2024, 01:22 PM
  #13  
CF Veteran
 
UKXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: England
Posts: 1,087
Received 231 Likes on 199 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

The rust on the underside of the white one looks superficial, the state of the door would give me more cause for concern.

If the 1st one's still an option, I'd expect an enthusiast who'd maintained their own vehicle to have a whole sheaf of receipts.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sarajimmy2024
Cherokee Chat
5
01-14-2024 02:40 PM
Xjpilotsky
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
11
01-12-2024 10:03 PM
Alladin Sane
Introductions
4
05-11-2021 02:54 AM
manamongtheruins
Cherokee Chat
7
05-05-2021 08:13 PM
dbmountain
Jeep Builds
1
02-22-2011 10:54 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: Advice on my first XJ purchase - 200k miles



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:59 PM.