rockosocko

had the 96 4cyl, 5spd for about a year and have always had a slight coolant loss since. Then fan didn't kick on and ran a little hot (about 230) til I got free from traffic, so maybe 20min.
Next day saw milky oil so I did a head and gasket swap ('01 Dakota, 117 head)
Head was checked and good so I did a quick porting swaped it on.

(Had to drill hole for the temp gauge sending unit..)

Put everything back together and turns over but NO FIRE.
Would that ground be a place to start?
All fuses looked good, swapped F/P relay and didn't touch anything else that I remember.

cause I need it for work tomorrow afternoon!!
ANY good experience/advise will be appreciated.

Thanks. Errol

RubenZ

You getting spark and fuel?

Jeep Driver

Your CPS is likely unplugged.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

well, what's causing it not to fire? no fuel? no compression? no spark? help us help you.

rockosocko

It got dark and the bugs were feasting on me.
Got a gazillions of things going on and spread out kinda thin.

Picked up a cap and rotor and son's home to help see if I got spark. Shot some carb cleaner down the intake but that didnt' fire it over, so maybe fuel..?
Also don't hear the pump 'cycle' when the key is turned. Kinda dismissed fuel since ALL I did was take the head off and while waiting for the valves to be cut, tried to lube the ground between 3-4 cyl on block, and found a loose rear cap screw on the dizzy, (so I cleaned the under side of cap since it's been almost a year that I installed it)

I'm kinda leaning toward the ground on upper block and or dizzy (that's why I got another cap/rotor) I do have another dizzy that came from the Dakota motor, but Rock Auto shows different part numbers so I guess that's a no go. (they "look" the same though, body and wiring)

BUT, does the fuel 'loop' stop flow of current to the ECU or dizzy or visa versa?
ALL fuses looked good, and it's only been sitting for about a week..

"Driver"-- You mean Crank Position sensor? I didn't think I unpluged anything back by the bell housing.? But I'll recheck that.

Only have an hour or so to mess with it until evening, then the critters come back out and light is low, and my ol eyes aint what they use to was.

Thanks for all the help.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I'm inclined to think its spark/ignition related. Just a matter of checking everything at this point. Get yourself one of those headlamp lights, they make work so much easier when the light gets low. Coat yourself in "Off" and keep on wrenchin!

rockosocko

Yup, NO spark.. (Don't know why. But keep telling my wife it's a CONSPIRACY!! she just goes back in the house..)

Made sure the firing order was OK. -check- pulled the wires and spritz them with PB and found out that the 'output' of the coil was corroded. Tried the coil from the 01 dakota.. (NOPE wrong female plug)
Went and got a NEW coil. NOPE.. NO spark.
Ordered a 80.00 dizzy. Be in the morning.. Guess I'm taking another car to work.

SO.. give me a flow-chart or check list to go by before I HAVE TO buy a ECM, ECU, brain box or ______.
Again, Fuses under hood and dash looked good (although did NOT test each and every one of them with a multi-meter for continuity)

I used to be able to contort myself when I was younger, but after I finally get myself under the dash I realize I forgot my readers and have to do it all over again..
I just wish that 'they' would make fuse panels that had LEGIBLE words with arrows to what fuse they're talking about..
I mean, it's 2016 is space really that tight under a dash? Most of the dashes that I'm seeing are HUGE!

Again, Thanks guys n gals.
E

rockosocko

oops, forgot to say new cap and rotor.. That didn't help either. plugs were fine also, kinda too clean. Re-used them.

BUT WHY? ran fine before, just had slight water in oil.
NO Ignition or wiring isues (other than the radio isn't hooked up.) before this.
...we did have a couple bad thunder storms with lightning..

e

jordan96xj

Checking fuses is probably worth doing, but I would think your most likely candidates are (in order):

1. You have missed a connector to an important sensor (cam or crank)
2. You have damaged a sensor/connector while working in the area
3. You have damaged, stretched, crimped, or cut one of your harnesses that those sensors connect to

Walk every sensor on the throttle body back and check out the connector and the harness as far as you can, disconnect and reconnect them. Look for damage.

Inspect the crankshaft position sensor from the sensor up to the connector.

Inspect the camshaft pickup sensor connector as far as you can.

The next thing would be to walk the primary ignition up from the coil to the power distribution center (don't know 4 cyl well) but my guess is that you still have a ASD relay and ASD Relay fuse (these run the coil). They can tell you if your computer is at least trying fire, but the coil/dist isn't letting it get to the cylinders. Or if the computer is not initiating primary ignition at all. In which case, it will likely bring you back around to the Crank and Cam position sensors.

rockosocko

Thanks Jordan.
All I did was to unbolt the intake/exhaust from the head and pull it back to get it past the dowel pins and end studs to get the head off.
Throttle body was taken apart to clean without mucking up the sensors with the sprays/solvents, then reassembled and re-connected.
Do any of the Throttle body sensors stop the ignition from firing? I would just think that they would just throw a code.
Besides those and the dizzy, coil and plugs n wires, Nothing else was touched.
Well, I DID disconnect the battery..

Things like this seem to follow my vehicles for some reason. "THINGS" just seem to happen that don't have
ANYTHING to do with the original problem.
I would've never known there was any electrical problems before this. Started every time

Boy.. You can find all sorts of stuff. BUT can be sitting for hours watching vids.

Here's a nice one:

jordan96xj

I don't believe any of the throttle body components will stop spark from initiating. I generally just wanted to encourage you to double check your sensors, connectors, and harnesses feeding them.

The main things for primary ignition to the coil would be cam and crank sensors, ASD fuse, ASD relay, computer. (in order working back to the computer).

You don't have any type of security system right? (factory or aftermarket).

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

First, if you don't have spark at the coil, I wouldn't be replacing parts further down the flow of spark line (dizzy, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc.). You need to go the other direction. A CPS will cause a no-spark condition. The easiest way to check this is a scan tool.

Jordan96 gave good information as well. Check everything he said, this should lead you to the culprit... "those damn meddling kids!"

rockosocko

The reason I changed the cap n rotor was that it's been getting close to a year since I last did a tune up (in that I found the rear cap screw was a bit loose) and as I pulled the rotor off, it had about 1/8" wiggle and could see the "red death" dust from the bushings under the rotor. And ordered a dizzy. NOT that I was throwing parts at it. Just thought that it couldn't hurt..
Plus, didnt' pull the orig one yet. Just sprayed some WD in there like I always do, (as a water-proofer) and scraped the 4 inside terminals. The Dakota one was nice and tight, but different plug.

Another thing that came to mind was when I was taking things off of the head, the throttle blades were pretty gunky so that was unplugged and set to the side in a rubber trough kinda thing to hold all bolts/screws/stuff. Well we had a quick thunder storm go through and put about 1" of water in it where the 3 sensors on the Throttle body was partially submerged. Didn't think anything of it since I scrubbed it out (minus sensors) and set it up on the dash after and with 100+deg heat thought it wouldn't have an issue since it's in a harsh environment anywho.
Also, when re-installing the TPS, doesn't one fit the throttle 'blade' to catch the tangs inside the TPS so that as the
throttle cable gets pulled to the pass side it SHOULD read more and more resistance across the plug?
Just looking at the mating parts leaves a WIDE gap of movement.. You would think that it being non-adjustable, the blade of the shaft would slide into the TPS a lot tighter.

From what I'm reading the ASD (auto shut down) relay controls a LOT of things, and like the vid said even the TPS (throttle position sensor) is looped in with 4 other sensors..
Ran out of time this morning b4 work and will be digging out my multi-meter and chasing wires like the vid shows.

I'm tired, going to sleep.
The quest will continue tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
Errol

HudsonN

Have you looked at the crankshaft position sensor to make sure it's plugged in? Like stop everything else you're doing and go look at it.

If it's not plugged in/bad the fuel pump will not run, and you will not have spark.

Push the blade of a flathead screwdriver against the shrader valve on the test port of the fuel rail when the key is on. The fuel pump should prime and you should have fuel squiring out there.

That's another quick test for fuel.

jordan96xj

A bad/disconnected CPS should not stop the fuel pump from running. It may lead the computer to not command the fuel injectors, but fuel pressure will be present. However, as you have said, spark will definitely be missing if the CPS is not available.