rockosocko

'mornin..

B U T, do you guys think that the rain water would mess up those sensors on the Throttle body? (throttle position sensor, Manifold absolute sensor, and Air Idle control valve)
They ALL got submerged.. And the cleaning of the T/B included taking the IAC, which was pretty gummed up inside it's little orifice with brake-cleaner but not the body that get's plugged into.

It's a bit frustrating that I really didn't take much apart to get the head off, and it only took an hour or so to actually pull it.. So, it's not like I was taking stuff off "***** nilly".
Mechanically, the only issue was that I HAD TO go and buy a 12pt, deep well socket for the headbolts. And then had to grind out the upper ID to accept the threaded section above the 12 pt area (if ya ask me, the headbolts' design is goofy, And NO reason for them to be tall like that on the left bank)

On a side note, I'm trying not to use abbreviations to help the peeps that just don't know but have at least some interest in 'working' on their vehicle. I'm an ol fart that's been messing with machinery for decades but have flashbacks and cold sweats thinking of HAVING to do electrical work like this, and if it will help them out, well fine..
The "older" stuff was lots easier to work on, just not as efficient as what we have now. (spark, fuel, air, oil, coolant
I'll try and type as much as I can. I really don't know if pics would help though.

Getting back to the Jeep.
Since it's a 4cyl, there really isn't that much there. The crank sensor wasn't touched, Just the plug of it on the manifold.
The Dizzy wasn't taken out. Just the cap/rotor/wires (and coil later after the fact)
It ran fine.. Started right up every time and ran fairly well, but after the injector 'upgrade' (and 4.10 gears)
Doesn't get any better mileage)

Well, gotta get out there and sweat messsing with it.
(And my 81 cherokee decided to NOT start AT ALL. NO clickin, noise or smoke.. It's a conspiracy! Looking for drones at night and shadows in the trees..) Sorry, have to resort to trying to be funny 'cause this is so goofy.


(OK, edit) Re-tracing.. I did have to pull the harness to the front to have access to drill a hole for the cluster, temp sensor in the head above 4th exhaust port.
I wonder if there's any important SPLICES in that harness right there..?

Errol

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I would do a wiggle test while cranking it over. Grab that harness and wiggle it while someone else cranks it over. If you get a sputter and there are signs of life than I would tear into it and look for chaffed wires or signs of shorts.

I'm unsure about how the sensor would be affected after being submerged. You could always test them. I don't have a pinout for them or what their measured resistance should be but that might be obtainable by some googling or maybe CCKen might chime in with some knowledge

rockosocko

I think God is testing me..
Grabbed my multi-meter, clicked it on, Get zeros then it fades out.. (?) Must be battery. Touch it to my tongue and yep, dead. NO more time, gotta jet off to work.
On way home from work swing in Wallyworld and spend 12.00 for 4 9v batteries, get home and pop one in ...and nothing.. blank screen. grab another one just because, and NOPE.
So now I wait til morning where I can spend more $$ on another meter. (don't like borrowing)
This is why I H A T E W I R I N G.
FI-Tech injection makes a bolt on kit for older vehicles that would normally take a 4 barrel carb, and with just a few add on's you're up and running!
NO freaking ASD relays, CPS or ______.
Getting to hate the peeps that designed this wiring like the goof that made torx screws/bolts, and the ones that decided that's a good idea to put a 15mm, 18mm heads on bolts or nuts.

On one of my breaks I was readin CCKen's stuff with others. BUT, I need a meter to test.
E

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Does your meter have a fuse in it?

Honestly, the wiring isn't all that bad in these jeeps. The diag is just time consuming but if you've got the specs and a working meter you should be able to find the problem relatively quickly.

rockosocko

well, had to swap insurance over to my comanche for work, and moved to the 81 Cherokee to figure out THAT wiring (damn ferd solenoid starting system..) Because what I need to haul, the lil 4cyl won't cut it..

"IF" i get the big Chief running, then I'll get back to the lil chief, so it might be a few days. Plus, it's supposed to get over 110* heat index

On the 96 4cyl; I've NEVER seen another besides my Comanche (but it's an 88)
and I've been going to salvage yards for decades!!
They're ALL 6cyl. So without stripping both 4 and 6cyl harnesses, I really don't know how similar they are to be able to use _____ for _____.

THanks, and I'll keep you posted.
Errol

rockosocko

Well, at least got fuel system..
Got to looking through wiring and connections and saw a 'wad' of tape around the black PCM connection.

Found 6 (S I X) wires that were just twisted. Couldn't find my solder so I just used butt connectors just to
get it running and like I said, NOW have fuel pump cycling, but NO fire to the plugs.

Have voltage to the coil but not out. (this is a new coil, the old one was cracked and rusted. Swapped it back in since it ran before and Nothing..)

Now what?

thanks E

rockosocko

Well, it's relatively easy ONLY when you understand automotive electronics. Most all of these circuits combine systems that I think that shouldn't be. (just to charge more for labor and or parts)

Anywho, fixed the wiring to the black plug at PCM and ....NOPE, no fire/spark

Read about the 'special' way to stab in the new dizzy and couldn't get it to seat correctly. Thought that it was ME, tried it several times. Stabbed in the old one.. RIGHT in and seated (??) maybe the "new" one was drilled and pinned a bit off.?
It was off just enough to not be able to start the hold down bolt.
I must have printed off a 50 pages of interweb schematics, and it seems that MY particular engine combo in a cherokee shows different colored wire.
I'm also finding out that the 96 is kindof a bastard child with parts and or systems from 95's and 97's.
Like the PCM in the Haynes manual only shows about 15 wires and my pcm has about 50 plugged into it.
Have voltage to the Coil but not out to dizzy.
Well, at least I have fuel pump cycling!
The saga continues.
Errol

DFlintstone

I carry a spare CPS because mine will go out on a Friday after 5....You could swap yours and have a spare after that doesn't help.

I just read through fast once. I hear TPS's don't like getting wet, is about all I've got.

rockosocko

[QUOTE=DFlintstone;3290696]I carry a spare CPS because mine will go out on a Friday after 5....You could swap yours and have a spare after that doesn't help.
Well, this is #2 CPS, and at 75.00ea I'd rather save up and drop in my 5.2/NV3550 magnum.
About 3-4 wires and NO FREAKIN CPS, TPS, ASD, IAT, CMS, NSS, MAS, MAF, IAT, ALDL ETC...

I'm THIS close!!

Or drop in my 283 Chevy. 1-12v to the HEI, 1- hot and a ground to the starter and I'm running..


P.S. 4.0's have different coil and CPS connections, so you can't use them unless you 'alter' your harness and want to take the other 'new' part back for refund.

rockosocko

I FOUND IT!!! I had a work buddy come by and told him what was going on and what was done so far..
He looked at the "black" PCM plug and said.. "Here's the problem!!" I spun around in lightspeed and almost hurt my neck.
The solid gray wire (next to the gray with black tracer wire) had slightly moved over one hole (a blank one) as I was re-installing the plug back together.

He took it apart, got them all back together in the correct holes, and turned the key... Vvvrrroom!

PRAISE GOD!! I was close starting to drinkin again but didn't.
Now need to check on my head gasket job to see if that's all well.

Thank you guys for putting up with me, and helping where you could.
Errol

DFlintstone

And the Crowd Cheers!!! Well done!
Attaching the wires is usually good!

rockosocko

BUT I'll never know if that was it to begin with or the asd or cps..

If you guys don't mind, I'll try and upload the pics of the wiring later.

E

p.s.-- I did have to return the new dizzy though. followed the directions again (backtracking) and it wouldn't stab in.
Wonder why.?

OldTires

Glad you got it working. I give you a ton of credit for sticking with it.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

YAYAYAYAYAY haha I've been checking back on this rooting for you my man. Glad to hear she's running. I'm sure there was a huge relief when you heard it fire up!

rockosocko

........ It's dies 2x now going to work. First time was day after Labor day and was 3hrs late (waiting for AAA and taking me home to get another car)
Then find out that one can't call in ajoining to a holiday (because of abusers) So it's up to MGR's discretion if you get holiday pay or not.
THEN, find out it's just a 30a fuse up on the fender well. Ran fine for a few days and about 3 miles from work today it dies and went through 6 fuses and a hand full of THOSE DANG ASD RELAYS. Called mgr and had to burn a vac day. AAA towed me back home and said to the stinkin ASD, CPS, PCM, etc..







I'm just going to pull the drive train and drop in my 5.2/NV3500. Its' been sitting for about 3yrs and need to go over it and make sure I remember it all.. And it WILL BE CARB'D!!




Back to the 96, What makes the 30a fuse blow?
It's routed in with the ASD but what 'shorts' out?
ALso, what the heck makes the CPS go bad? I mean it's just a magnet right?
(I guess it's a fine wire in there that fries and rends it useless. A 75.00 useless pos)

Errol