, you do no leaving the pressure switch jumped is not safe correct,when it stops working is there still current at jumper

 

Is he bypassing the right switch? I have a black one with a red connector and it is plugged into the accumulator, and another wire with Gray plug and yellow connector coming off of the other wire. When I bypassed the gray plug yellow plug, my compressor kicks on for a bit then shuts off. Is that the low pressure switch? It isn't plugged into anything its just hanging there. Maybe he is doing the wrong plug. The one I bypassed is the gray and yellow one in the picture. 98 xj

 

No, but I don't see how that's dangerous. Don't you have to leave it jumped to keep the comp. running.

 

The one I'm bypassing is grey and yellow

 

by passing it for a few seconds is ok for a quick compressor check,proper freon levels/pressure will keep the compressor running

 

That is the same one I'm bypassing. But is yours plugged into the accumulator?

 

Not trying to hack the thread but quick question. My ac system has probably less than an ounce to no refrigerant in it. I'm gonna recharge it this week. When I go to jump the plug, the compressor kicks on and squeals or squeaks then shuts off. Is that because there is no refrigerant in the system to lube it to help it run smoothly? Or is the squeak bad?

 

Yes. It's the black can looking thing on the passenger firewall.

 

yes those are low pressure switchs

 

My yellow and grey switch isn't plugged into the accumulator, it's somehow connected to the black and red plug on the accumulator. It's just sitting there.

 

squeks bad unless belts doing it from improper tension

 

Well it only squeals when the compressor kicks on. Should I try recharging it? Maybe it will lube it up.

 

Does your guys' yellow service hose fit those small freon cans? My brass pieice is too long and will seat before it pierces the can.

 

You are correct if the system always stays above atmospheric. But he claims he is showing negative pressures on the low side (?), which would suck in air while running if there is a leak. And if the system is "as low as 1 lb." or anything significantly lower than the factory charge wouldn't that indicate a leak at some point? Also, his readings are indicative of low pressures on both the low and high sides, also indicating a leak at some point. I suppose in the grand scheme, once he is sure he's got all his leaks fixed and none of his components need to be replaced, I'd think it's worth the $60 bucks to have it sucked down and then properly charged. And if he does have to replace any components, he's going to have to do it anyway. That may not be everyone's approach, but I live in Texas, and we can't afford to screw around when it comes to air conditioning
I lived through that crazy heat wave here last summer with 100+ temps for weeks at stretch. Not anyone's idea of a good time...

 

So when my low gauge hits 45 the compressor will kick on. The high side will go to 150, but then the low side will drop and the compressor kicks off. When it does kick on it kicks right back off. The cycles starts over. Lows side hits 45 and kicks compressor on, as this happens the high side goes to 150 but the low side drops again and the compressor kicks off. Over and over and over.........