keep filling

 

Thanks for the help fellas. I got to stop for the evening. I'm gonna see if my system holds any pressure for a couple of days. Does anyone know if the yellow service line on a set of gauges should fit the small 12oz cans? Mine don't, I'm just not sure if I am missing an adapter

 

Yep. Keep filling. According to my factory service manual for my 98, the low pressure switch kicks in at 38 PSI and below. The high pressure switch kicks in at 450-490 PSI and will reset (continuity) once the system pressure drops back down to 270-330 and below.

You are seeing the cycling because you don't have enough freon in there to maintain adequate pressure on both sides of the system when its running.

So, once you high side pressures up, it drops the low side to 38 or below and the compressor cycles off.

 

So it takes awhile, huh? Am I shooting for a low pressure of around 55 and a high of around 400

 

So with my ac compressor squealing when jumped, should I still recharge it to lube it up?

 

My jeep has a black plug in the same wire bundle that is plugged into a bunch vacuum lines. Maybe your plugs got switched. I'm just guessing though. Is the other side of the plugs the same color, mine are. If they aren't that might be your problem.

 

Your pressures is part of the reason I keep suggesting that you get it vacuumed down and have the proper 1.25 pound charge put in. You may get certain pressures, but if there is air in the system it won't work properly, regardless of pressures.

Also, pressure readings are somewhat relative to ambient temperature. They change depending on your outside temps. And no, you should not be shooting for 400 pounds on the high side. That's the point at which the switch kicks in to kill your compressor before you blow the whole damn works up. My best guestimation is that on an 80 degree day, a properly vacuumed and charged system will have high side pressures around 185-210, but that is only a guess. An AC guy that has a chart or a better mental grasp of the thermodynamic calculations could tell you better.

I stand by my earlier advice. Do what you need to make sure you're not leaking, let a pro know what parts (if any) you've replaced so he can add oil according to the chart, and pay him the $60-$70 to suck it down and do it right.

Don't get me wrong. I'm all about do-it-yourself and perform most of the work on my cars (including the engine swap and lift in my XJ), but there are some things that will cost you more in the long run (in dollars and frustration and failed parts) than just getting a pro to do it.

When I was working on mine, I replaced the compressor, condenser coil, expansion valve tube, and accumulator myself. But when it came time to fill 'er up I took it to a shop. 45 minutes and $65 later I was cruising cool.

 

You could try, but adding freon (as apposed to oil) may not help much. usually, a squeal in the compressor is the death knell. However, it only costs a few bucks to add some freon. If the squealing stops and the system holds pressure overnight, take it to a shop to be vacuumed down and charged properly.

 

Hmm. That doesn't sound too good. I could use the recharge kit that has 2oz of oil. I'm planning on using the compressor deal to evacuate the system and then use the manifold gauges set to check for leaks and add refrigerant

 

why do you have to jump it just fill normally
?

 

When I tried filling it last summer, the compressor never kicked on, so we thought it was shot. But I just recently read about jumping it.

 

I get the death squeal too when I try and turn on the A/C. Only tried once (and the gf tried once, wont do it again ) but it gives a real loud squeak and then quiets down as if all is good. I haven't tried running it since, and I'm pretty darn sure it isn't the belt.

Nperryman, If you haven't already, I might start a new thread about it tomorrow so as to not take this one off track. If you figure it out please let me know.

 

untill there enough pressure to over come the low pressure switch it wont come on jumping is not a fix maybe swith is bad , i would get a switch and try again with it plugged in

 

1/4 turn belt test confirmed?

 

I wish I could say I was knowledgeable enough to know exactly what the 1/4 turn belt test means, but I'm not. lol

It does have less than 1/4" of slack, but is not over tight as in wrecking the alternator (which runs great as I found out when my bat contacts came undone while driving....)