Alternator Issue
04-22-2012, 05:07 PM
#17
You can replace the alternator with one that has an inbuilt regulator, but you'll have a problem with a persistent CEL/MIL.
If you decide to go with an internally-regulated unit anyhow, go with a Delco CS-130 that's setup up as a "one-wire" or "self-exciting" unit. Or, you can have the conventional regulator and adapt the wiring (I haven't figured out how to do that yet, either...) but you'll still be bypassing the regulator circuit in the PCM and still get a CEL/MIL.
Either way, if you get a persistent CEL/MIL, I'd strongly suggest you get a code reader and run it on your rig at least quarterly to make sure you're not masking another issue with the alternator lamp!
.
If you decide to go with an internally-regulated unit anyhow, go with a Delco CS-130 that's setup up as a "one-wire" or "self-exciting" unit. Or, you can have the conventional regulator and adapt the wiring (I haven't figured out how to do that yet, either...) but you'll still be bypassing the regulator circuit in the PCM and still get a CEL/MIL.
Either way, if you get a persistent CEL/MIL, I'd strongly suggest you get a code reader and run it on your rig at least quarterly to make sure you're not masking another issue with the alternator lamp!
.
I have a preference for the models with a black square regulator in the back of them . It contains the brushes in that square regulator too and is easily removable with the two screws.
Fact is though that you just run a wire from the "B" connector to any point on the battery positive line . However you have to have a small indicator lamp connected to the indicator light terminal or it will not excite the field coil but thats easily fixed up and fitted on the dash.
Error Codes
My model gets the codes by an " On-Off-On-Off-On" sequence with the ignition key and it then outputs the sequential codes with 55 tagged on at the end.
Mine gave out 12, 47, 55 which told me it was not seeing any voltage coming out of the Alternator
The Alternator is one of the easiest I have ever worked on .metric nuts 7mm,10mm,13 mm and 15mm
Remove it from the car by loosening all the bolts first then back the adjustment right off, slip the belt away then remove all bolts and connection nuts and "voila"
On the bench remove the backing plate (3 nuts and a screwbolt) , remove the brush holder(3screws) and clean all , remove the diode plate (6 screws) and clean all removed parts in kero , wash with water and reinstall. Clean especially where the brushes contact the shaft and the area between the copper rings. Replace brush holder if necessary. Test field coil resistance (about 4 Ohms from memory) and the diode plate then whack it all back in remembering the rubber covers
Easy as
New one $208 from Supercheap
Problems
I found on mine the bottom bolt faced the wrong way -head came out into the fan so I would have had to remove the fans etc so I cut the head off and welded it back on later( it was 1/4 inch too long anyway) and replaced the bolt the other way for later ease of disassembly.
I had to run a file over the tops of the diode wires to get a clean electrical contact . All diodes should give conduction to the point shown and when the meter leads are swapped there should be no passage of current
There is a capacitor built into the field coil wires but I don't know how it is connected atm. I suspect it is a noise suppressor but I'll post back whin I find out for sure
Last edited by tytower; 05-21-2012 at 02:17 AM.
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