I have a 98 Sport with the AW4 transmission.

Normally, my voltage stays pegged at around 14V (13.8V is what my ScanGauge II reads.) I had noticed in the past 2 weeks or so, sometimes turning on the a/c would cause the interior or headlights to flicker.

Today I started seeing some lower voltages on my dash gauge (and ScanGauge). At a stop light it would be down to 11V or so, and would pick back up to 12.9-13.1 when driving. After driving a while though, the voltage stabilized at around 13.2 even at idle. Headlights will still flicker if a/c is turned on. Locking the doors would cause headlights to flicker.

I have clean battery cables (just replaced the positive cable about a month ago.) I have a newish battery (about 4 months old.)

Last Sunday I did change the front passenger and driver door lock/window switches. I was getting random ghost locks and the window controls were weak. With the new switches the ghost locks are gone and the windows are more responsive. One weird thing though is that today the doors started locking when I turn on the vehicle. It's not random, because it happens when I turn on the vehicle, but it's still strange. Could a failing alternator affect the door switches or did I mess something up installing the switches that is messing with the alternator?

I'm thinking my next steps is to test the battery and alternator. If I need to replace the alternator, how hard of a job is it on a 98? Could I have done *anything* when changing the door switches that could be causing a problem? I would hate to install a new alternator and it meet the same fate.

thanks!

 

doubtfull changeing switches affected anything
most auto parts will do a load test and alt test for free

https://www.google.com/search?q=98+c...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

That's what I figured, but I suppose my mind instantly focused on the last thing I changed before this voltage drop issue appeared today.

Like I said though, I had been noticing the headlights flicker slightly a couple weeks back when the a/c would engage. So it's probably the alternator slowly dying. I'll get it checked out tomorrow.

 

1) Verify suspect readings with an independent reading. A ScanGauge is still going to read through the ECU - which also drives the gage (I'm assuming that your SGII is an OBD-II device.) Use a DMM connected directly to the battery or the back of the alternator, take the ECU out of the circuit entirely.)

2) I've posted a writeup on how to test primary electrical using a DMM and a a helper, and get it done in about ten minutes. Should search up easily.)

 

Turned out it was dirty/loose wire on my fusebox. Luckily didn't need a new alternator.