another ticking/clicking 2001 4.0
#1
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6
another ticking/clicking 2001 4.0
I need your assistance again folks! Ive been having a pretty consistent ticking/clicking sound that slowly seems to be getting worse. I checked the flexplate bolts as that seemed like the easiest place to start, but they were all tight. It is definitely louder underneath, by the oil pan which makes me worried. I already replaced the head last year as the old one cracked like usual, so i dont want to lose out on what i have invested in it. the oil level is fine, and its still closer to brown the black for color. I added some MMO a couple weeks back but it did not seem to change it. i made a video to help you guys hear the sound. when i get under the oil pan you should definitely be able to hear it.
thanks in advance for anything you can do
thanks in advance for anything you can do
#2
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Year: 2001
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I forgot to add, it seems to run and drive fine otherwise. The noise speeds up when given a little gas, up to a point. Then it either goes away or can't be heard over the engine.
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Year: 97
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Good morning fellow Arizonian! Being louder at the bottom pan area and not louder at the top valve cover points towards rod bearings, the thrust bearing, or piston slap. Now if it is coming from the very front of the block it could be the timing chain. It might take a stethoscope to locate the exact source better.
What's your oil pressure like?
What's your oil pressure like?
#5
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Year: 2001
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Kind of low imo. About 30 to 40 driving around town and like 15 to 20 stopped. I feel like I might need a new pump sometime, but ive heard it's a big job. Does some place like harbor freight sell a decent stethoscope? How bad is it if it is one of the things you mentioned?
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If it happens to help, I've noticed it stays quiet for the first 10 seconds or so when starting cold, like overnight or while at work.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
Sticky hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters is what I'm going to suggest:
--Quiet at start-up until idle "settles"
--rev the engine in neutral and the noise is quieter at ~1500 RPM or higher
--intermittent issue
Keep in mind that the HLAs in these pushrod engines are down in the block and can sound like a "bottom end" noise. If this were bearing or piston slap noise, it would get louder as RPMs rise and be louder at cold start up. Try doing the MMO application down the pushrod holes to see if it gets quieter. If it does, it's definitely sticky HLAs.
--Quiet at start-up until idle "settles"
--rev the engine in neutral and the noise is quieter at ~1500 RPM or higher
--intermittent issue
Keep in mind that the HLAs in these pushrod engines are down in the block and can sound like a "bottom end" noise. If this were bearing or piston slap noise, it would get louder as RPMs rise and be louder at cold start up. Try doing the MMO application down the pushrod holes to see if it gets quieter. If it does, it's definitely sticky HLAs.
Last edited by Tbone289; 12-06-2017 at 11:45 AM.
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#9
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Year: 2001
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Sticky hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters is what I'm going to suggest:
--Quiet at start-up until idle "settles"
--rev the engine in neutral and the noise is quieter at ~1500 RPM or higher
--intermittent issue
Keep in mind that the HLAs in these pushrod engines are down in the block and can sound like a "bottom end" noise. If this were bearing or piston slap noise, it would get louder as RPMs rise and be louder at cold start up. Try doing the MMO application down the pushrod holes to see if it gets quieter. If it does, it's definitely sticky HLAs.
--Quiet at start-up until idle "settles"
--rev the engine in neutral and the noise is quieter at ~1500 RPM or higher
--intermittent issue
Keep in mind that the HLAs in these pushrod engines are down in the block and can sound like a "bottom end" noise. If this were bearing or piston slap noise, it would get louder as RPMs rise and be louder at cold start up. Try doing the MMO application down the pushrod holes to see if it gets quieter. If it does, it's definitely sticky HLAs.
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Year: 2000
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Have a read through this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/99-...art-up-239447/
We get way off topic a few times as we like to do, but the info is there... In short, you remove the valve cover and squirt MMO down the pushrod holes in the head.
We get way off topic a few times as we like to do, but the info is there... In short, you remove the valve cover and squirt MMO down the pushrod holes in the head.
Last edited by Tbone289; 12-08-2017 at 12:32 PM.