tornprince

sorry again. i need some serious help. can i use extention cord wireing to wire foglights and stuff? just recently remembered i can adjust (slide back) the rack on my 90 stock roof rack. i have a spot light mounted there that blinds me everytime i try to use it and aint got anymore wire. just tryin ta redneck my way through things. and also, dont know how many of yall are into the stereo thing, but i heard of this thing called "the big 3". reckon thatd work to make more power to the alt to run more lights?

tornprince

yall reckon this would work for me?

ROUGH COUNTRY SUSPENSION LIFT KIT -- Provides 3 in. lift; Consists of front lift coil springs, rear add-a-leaf springs, and U-bolts; The coil springs are engineered for more stability in handling; The add-a-leafs feature a progressive double-tapered design for a less severe ride quality than standard straight-cut springs; Provides increased ground clearance, better protection, and control off-road as well as more comfort on the highway; Fits 31 x 10.5 in tires; Raises vehicle's height for increased ground clearance on larger tires; The heavy-duty components can survive years of heavy usage; Offers better protection, more comfort on the highway, and more control off-road; Components fit both the Dana 35 and the Jeep 8.25 in. rear axles; To complete your kit, purchase Rough country shocks and steering stabilizers, sold separately.

and how much time/work would this take?

jx2991

It's not synthetic and it idles great. It just sunds like a little diesel. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't trying to destroy its self or cost me a lot more money.

jx2991

So, what causes them to be so loud but not be a concern? It seems like that much noise should be a bad thing. Are the valves adjustable?

dukie564

crank sensor is probably not your issue. Since it's not idling I'd say your first step would be to replace the idle air control motor (IAC)

dukie564

I'm confused about the gauge sensor, but anyways...

you cannot remove the stock sensor and replace it with a different one for a separate gauge. The PCM still requires a signal from the stock sensor to operate correctly. Your aftermarket gauge should be spliced into the coolant line running from the top of the thermostat housing to the heater core.

dukie564

hmm not sure where to start with this but here goes...

extension cord wiring should be big enough to handle the amperage for your fog lights - but it depends on what the wattage of the fog lights is (and how many you're running), as well as what the capacity of the extension cord you're using is.

As far as the stereo, the stock wiring/alternator/battery (the big 3) should be plenty fine for running most stereo setups. It's when you start getting into high-wattage systems with amplifiers and subwoofers that you can start running into trouble.
EDIT: I see your info has a bunch of components listed. I recommend a full wiring overhaul for the amps/subs, a deep cycle battery, and a higher wattage alternator to sufficiently run that system.

dukie564

Would it work? Yes.
Would I recommend it? No.

Add-a-leaf kits are inexpensive for a reason. They use a very stiff thick leaf spring placed under your existing springs to provide lift. Unfortunately there are issues with this - 1) it will ride very rough, like you'll feel every pebble in the road kind of rough... 2) it will sag very quickly - the AALs don't have a good track record for providing the advertised lift for very long, they will eventually sag back down toward stock height.

Additionally, that kit does not include some components which are absolutely necessary at that height - shocks mainly

Also - where did you find that kit at? I didn't think RC sold that kit anymore. Their new kits all seem to include the shocks. Here's the one you were looking at, but the new one http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3.html

I recommend that kit, but with the full leaf pack option. You'll thank me down the road. The kits say 4.5 hours to install, but in my experience that's an absolute best case scenario where all the bolts come right out easily. I'd plan a weekend with a couple friends, some beers, and lots of PB Blaster on the bolts every day for a week before the lift.

Disoriented Hillbilly

I searched but didnt really find anything. Lookin for a good pa speaker. Saw that someone bought one from radio shack. What kind can get fairly wet and survive and be rather LOUD! Thx in advance!!!

Disoriented Hillbilly

X2. I DID buy the aal and have been running it for 6 months now. I have experienced no sag as of yet. The fella that helped me said the aal was much different than the old ones, ie much longer. Dunno if they are doing this to combat early sag syndrome or not? Anywho-it rides much better albeit a lil stiffer than with what i had to begin with which was basically nada. I will get new springs when i sag.

The install was fairly easy. I have never done anything like this but had some great help that has experience. Took us about 8-9 hrs hammering through it. Ours was beer free. PB blaster is a must especially on the bolts holding the shocks in!!! We didn't use ANY pneumatics, we did it all by hand and we didn't break one bolt or strip anything.

Also talk to Grimus on the vendor forum. He works for RC and can get you a great deal on the kit with everything you need. Great product, great service, great deal. You will not be sorry.

wjnfirearms

You can buy PA speakers from The Shack and other electronics distributors online. They are not designed to take a lot of abuse as it sounds like you want to go off roading with it installed. If you don't mind spending some money, you could install a siren driver which would work and take a lot of abuse. These are the speakers that emergency vehicle electronic sirens use to project sound. Still, the cost could easily be much more than you paid for the CB. Even used, they go for decent bucks, normally well over $50. I guess it depends on how badly you want to have the PA.

wjnfirearms

Make sure that the gauge of the wire is at least as thick as the original wiring of the lights themselves. If you use lighter wire, you risk burning up the wiring and doing damage to the vehicle. If the wire is heavier, that's quite ok.

I haven't heard of this "big 3", but any alternator can only make the maximum amount of volts and amps that it was designed to make, no more. If you need to have more voltage for off road lights, stereo amps, etc., you need to upgrade the charging system. If you cannot get a factory alternator that puts out more juice, you have to go aftermarket. I did a 1976 police car restoration and needed a bigger alternator. I found the ticket at www.pa-performance.com out of Easton, Pa. It cost around $200 and powered whatever I needed it to. They have alternators that go up to 1000 amps to power show stereos, etc and have them for most all vehicles made. Still, there is no good redneck way to go to up the amps other than finding a JY alternator that works and is rated at more amps.

tornprince

my amp/sub really hasnt casued a problem yet. i upgraded my original batt cause it'd drain itself every night. since putting in a newer-ish one it hasnt drained itself. yeah, i kinda have a prob with wiring to much together (caught my celebrity on fire in the winter). mainly was gonna use the extention wire to lengthen the wire to my spot light. thanks fer yer reply. i understand more of it now.

tornprince

got it at drivewire.com. all together it was 100.99 shipped. the shocks are sold seperate as is the steering stabilizers. didn't plan on jumping in it with both feet. next month i was gonna get the rest. there like RC Nitro filled 9000, dont know what that mean but there 34.95 a pop. and the stabilizer is bout 35.95. i followed that link, 255 is a bit outta my price range. i can only get 100 on my walmart money card amonth (ssi check, all i can afford to spare, rest is fer bills). it'll be like a 2-4 month process just getting parts. mind ya i gotta do all this by myself, no garage, no help and no knowledge. thats whats CF is fer right?

xjknut11

So the other day I changed a blown fuse to get my radio, visor lights, and OHC lights to work...but now I had to remove the fuse every time I get out of the jeep because the courtesy lights in the OHC (the rear two) do not ever shut off now. What happened in 3 days to do this?