Auto trans AW4 slipped. Tests performed. Your experience?
#1
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I got 305,000 miles on my AW4, the torque converter seems to be going out, slipping is happening.
How long does the AW4 typically last? I am thinking, should I replace only the torque converter, or the whole transmission?
What kinds of life do you all see for the AW4?
How long does the AW4 typically last? I am thinking, should I replace only the torque converter, or the whole transmission?
What kinds of life do you all see for the AW4?
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I've seen them go 450,000 with heavy usage. YMMV.
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Torque converter slippage won't produce that hot smell... That's a clutch pack on the way out burning the fluid... How the vehicle was used and maintained determines what you'll get out of it... Looks like you're getting 300,000 out of this one...lol..
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You'll get a new converter in, new fluid, filter, ect. And you'll have the same problem.
but the good news is you'll be able to swap it out or have it rebuilt fairly easily since there is nothing fancy or special about it. And you'll never have to worry about it again most likely
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#9
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Ok, clutch packs. Just wondering how they work , I know about nothing of Automatics, been manual guy whole life, rebuilt VW and Porsche manuals, and helped someone on there Honda manual.
So how do the clutch packs come into play, is there clutches for each gear? I could not go up that hill in 1st or 2nd,, even 3rd so all clutches are bad? I was in low range, I have a 4.3 low range too. She just got slower and slower as engine reved more, as a burnt smell was noted, thats when I stopped, After cool down she made it up the short distance up remainder of hill to my camp site, and following day no issue on freeway that I noted.
Now would I not see clutch material in the fluid?
I pulled the drain plug and found the fluid to be new looking, nice red color, no metallic sheen, the only thing was a slight burnt smell. Would not the clutch slipping so much as I could barely move up a hill, result in a lot of crud in the fluid?
Sorry if this is a silly question.
I know in a manual, if the syncro rings start wearing bad you find bronze powder in the gear oil. but by golly the atf looked very clean, as new.
I am learning, so bear with me, thanks
So how do the clutch packs come into play, is there clutches for each gear? I could not go up that hill in 1st or 2nd,, even 3rd so all clutches are bad? I was in low range, I have a 4.3 low range too. She just got slower and slower as engine reved more, as a burnt smell was noted, thats when I stopped, After cool down she made it up the short distance up remainder of hill to my camp site, and following day no issue on freeway that I noted.
Now would I not see clutch material in the fluid?
I pulled the drain plug and found the fluid to be new looking, nice red color, no metallic sheen, the only thing was a slight burnt smell. Would not the clutch slipping so much as I could barely move up a hill, result in a lot of crud in the fluid?
Sorry if this is a silly question.
I know in a manual, if the syncro rings start wearing bad you find bronze powder in the gear oil. but by golly the atf looked very clean, as new.
I am learning, so bear with me, thanks
Last edited by robsjeep; 08-27-2023 at 09:43 PM.
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I'm hoping he has.
With it adjusted properly, it should have almost no slack. They don't always adjust properly.
A trick is to disconnect the cable from the throttle body, pull the cable tight and clamp the wire with small vise grips. That will really increase the trans line pressure. Good for testing.
With it adjusted properly, it should have almost no slack. They don't always adjust properly.
A trick is to disconnect the cable from the throttle body, pull the cable tight and clamp the wire with small vise grips. That will really increase the trans line pressure. Good for testing.
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each gear has a clutch pack inside a drum, when that gear is selected, hydraulic pressure will be directed to that clutch pack, forcing the individual clutch plates together
The plates themselves are alternating steel, and "friction" discs
The friction discs have wear material on them like an ordinary clutch, eventually they become too worn, and that is when slipping can occur
Slipping may also occur if your trans pressure is too low, so may be worth checking
The life of a trans has a lot to do with heat and duty cycle
If a trans spends a lot of time operating in a cool climate, it will last much longer than one that lives in a hot climate, typical lifespan around here does not exceed 250k miles
Google and Youtube are informative
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There are master overhaul kits that contain all the components to rebuild the trans...I'd find a book specifically for the AW4 and read up on it.. The Cherokee service manual might have all the info to do it but generally the mopar tools are called out{and you wouldn't have} instead of alternative tools that aftermarket guides would have...With the mileage you've got I wouldn't just change the problem clutch pack I'd do the whole thing.. I haven't had one of these apart yet but I'm good at the old trans like mopar 727, chevy 350/400 turbo, etc...And I would be hesitant to do one..... lastly, you might be further ahead just pulling it and having someone do it for you.. Overdrive trans are no joke and a bunch of work... Here's a link to an example of a master kit for the AW4...https://transend.us/products/transmi...r-kits/97006af