Automatic Transmission Service
#17
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#18
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#19
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#20
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Year: 2001
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I just changed my trans fluid and filter last weekend, here's what I recommend:
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
#21
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Year: 1990
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I just changed my trans fluid and filter last weekend, here's what I recommend:
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
#22
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Year: 1997
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It is really dark. Bought 4 quarts of Valvoline ATF+4 at my local parts store today along with a package of 3 copper drain plug gaskets/washers. Plan on doing a drain and fill, driving around for a week, checking condition of fluid, regardless do one more drain and fill installing a new gasket/washer on the drain plug each time. Hoping this will do the trick and get me nice clean red fluid.
I just changed my trans fluid and filter last weekend, here's what I recommend:
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
In that write-up, the guy left the dipstick tube connected to the pan. I would recommend doing everything you can to disconnect that and remove the pan completely for a good cleaning. Especially since the old gasket will need to be scraped off both the pan and trans housing.
Make sure not to over-tighten the pan bolts when re-applying. I accidentally did this with two bolts, and now they spin with barely any torque and therefore not holding their intended pressure against the gasket. Haynes manual should have specific torque values for those bolts.
If the new gasket you're putting on is the one-piece rubber (which is the way to go) tighten the pan bolts from the middle out as you would on a engine valve cover.
My trans fluid was most likely the original (2001). I just drained it, replaced the filter, and used all new fluid. 100 miles later, the fluid is still bright red. So hopefully you'll have the same luck and only need to do this once.
#23
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Take the ATF+4 back to the parts store and get Dexron III.
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Haynes says one thing, Jeep dealership says another, parts store says another and forum community yet again says another...that's four choices haha.
Because I'm smart and know this forum keeps me Jeep going I'll go get the Dexron III. Glad I got carried away with other things on the Jeep today and didn't do the service.
Because I'm smart and know this forum keeps me Jeep going I'll go get the Dexron III. Glad I got carried away with other things on the Jeep today and didn't do the service.
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Haynes says one thing, Jeep dealership says another, parts store says another and forum community yet again says another...that's four choices haha.
Because I'm smart and know this forum keeps me Jeep going I'll go get the Dexron III. Glad I got carried away with other things on the Jeep today and didn't do the service.
Because I'm smart and know this forum keeps me Jeep going I'll go get the Dexron III. Glad I got carried away with other things on the Jeep today and didn't do the service.
Chysler does officially approve of it's use, but keep in mind their testing was done on spankin' new AW4's, not those with 100K miles of previous Dex III usage.
And there's where the uncertainty comes in.
From what I can tell, the +4 is perfectly fine in a newly overhauled AW4, or one with relatively low miles. Once they get miles on them anecdotal evidence suggests the +4 sometimes causes slippage- it's characteristics are different than the Dex III the transmission is used to. More slippery, less grippy, however you want to describe it. Different friction modifiers and such.
Since there is really nothing to gain by using +4 (III is perfectly good fluid- these trans' consistently run hundreds of thousands of miles with it) there is no upside and only a possible downside with the switch.
I tend to stay with what's known and proven rather than foray into the unknown when it's my money on the line. Even if others (with nothing at stake) say it's OK.
BTW: Chrysler did not approve the substitution until 2007- after the last AW4 was <cough> out of warranty... If that says anything, lol.
Last edited by Radi; 11-30-2012 at 12:34 AM.
#27
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Year: 2001
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I bought my 01 XJ in April with 160k on it. The PO was an accountant and followed the service intervals to a tee. However, although it ran and shifted well, the trans fluid was darkish red/brown/ grey. I did 2drain & fills and then two more with successive oil changes.
Runs and shifts great still. 3.75 quarts each time. I used the Walmart DexIII compatible stuff and their high mileage formula in the red bottle when I could find it.
If you need to do more then that, there is something wrong with your A4 that the cleanest of fluids won't fix.
Runs and shifts great still. 3.75 quarts each time. I used the Walmart DexIII compatible stuff and their high mileage formula in the red bottle when I could find it.
If you need to do more then that, there is something wrong with your A4 that the cleanest of fluids won't fix.
Last edited by cropduster; 11-30-2012 at 06:41 AM.
#28
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I just bought cheap DexIII from Meijers in the gallon jug and since it was so easy, I just did it till is started looking clean, then on my final drain and fill I made the choice to either use the cheap DexIII or buy some name brand, then I got to thinking how I had been driving around with the "red and slippery" stuff and it has been completely fine! If it complies with DexIII its all the same...(mostly)
get it red, as cheaply as possible! and enjoy the AW4
get it red, as cheaply as possible! and enjoy the AW4
#29
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If you don't actually drop the pan, jack up the front of the Jeep. Otherwise you will only be getting about half the fluid out. Yeah, I was surprised also. Next time I do it I will put another drain plug towards the front. I can't imagine why they put it where they did other than, yeah it's a Jeep. From my experience, buy the rubber gasket from Napa ( it's like $6 ) put it on GOOD to the pan ( I use Permatex #2 ) and use Copper Spray a Gasket on the tranny side. You'll be able to take it off and put it back on several times. For the filter/screen buy the "card/gasket" one also at Napa for like $18 and throw away the crappy cork gasket that comes with it. This is cheaper than buying just the filter they list which is like $42. Good Luck!
#30
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Went back and got a 4 quart jug of
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/33
Plan on doing a drain and fill then driving about a week before doing another drain and fill. Like I said no screen/filter change for me just drain and fills till the fluid is red.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/33
Plan on doing a drain and fill then driving about a week before doing another drain and fill. Like I said no screen/filter change for me just drain and fills till the fluid is red.