Automatic Transmission Service
12-02-2012 | 03:21 PM
#31
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 237
Likes: 1
From: Commerce, MI
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Went back and got a 4 quart jug of
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/33
Plan on doing a drain and fill then driving about a week before doing another drain and fill. Like I said no screen/filter change for me just drain and fills till the fluid is red.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/33
Plan on doing a drain and fill then driving about a week before doing another drain and fill. Like I said no screen/filter change for me just drain and fills till the fluid is red.
week is fine, but you can do it the same day! just put a few miles on it and trust me it will be plenty mixed! That sir is your choice and will hurt nothing if you want to wait a week.
12-02-2012 | 04:11 PM
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Russellville, Arkansas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
In many years of driving, I have never had a tranny flush. Just a drain, filter and refill. On my XJ, my book does not mention the +4 stuff at all. I have always used Dexron (as the book suggests) and have never had a problem. Been using it since my first car (a '76 Impala) and have gone through all the formulations up to the current number. I've also never had a shop change it for me. My dad started me out doing it myself as soon as I was old enough to hold a wrench by myself on the family's cars and trucks.
Now, my first time on an XJ, I did have trouble with the dipstick tube until I figured out that it was a two-piece tube and there was a rubber o-ring in the connection. After I got this concept, I use some grease on the o-ring and connection when I put it back together (after wire brushing off the rust and gunk) and haven't had a problem since. I take off the bolt holding the tube first before I drop the pan and put the pan back on before replacing the tube. Much easier.
Now, my first time on an XJ, I did have trouble with the dipstick tube until I figured out that it was a two-piece tube and there was a rubber o-ring in the connection. After I got this concept, I use some grease on the o-ring and connection when I put it back together (after wire brushing off the rust and gunk) and haven't had a problem since. I take off the bolt holding the tube first before I drop the pan and put the pan back on before replacing the tube. Much easier.
12-04-2012 | 08:40 AM
#33
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 311
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Just outa curiosity (following this thread since planning on 'servicing' my trans soon, the dipstick issue: this connection you tallk about, do you just pull them away from eachother, or remove something to make the connection come apart? The dipstick seems a mayor PITA as I understand you cant pull it out of the pan.
12-04-2012 | 11:30 PM
#35
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Just outa curiosity (following this thread since planning on 'servicing' my trans soon, the dipstick issue: this connection you tallk about, do you just pull them away from eachother, or remove something to make the connection come apart? The dipstick seems a mayor PITA as I understand you cant pull it out of the pan.
AW4 TRANS SERVICE
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAutoService.htm
Hope this helps
12-05-2012 | 07:22 AM
#36
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
From: Denver, CO
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI
Just outa curiosity (following this thread since planning on 'servicing' my trans soon, the dipstick issue: this connection you tallk about, do you just pull them away from eachother, or remove something to make the connection come apart? The dipstick seems a mayor PITA as I understand you cant pull it out of the pan.
12-05-2012 | 10:49 PM
#37
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
From: DuPage County, IL
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I've heard from multiple sources over the years, that you shouldn't change the ATF on a high mileage vehicle, if it hasn't been changed before. I was going to do mine and was dissuaded from it.
12-05-2012 | 11:32 PM
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll copy and paste my response on another thread related to this. I used this method, it took 15 minutes, I didn't have to get under the XJ at all, and I paid about $79 for 3 gallons of Dex III at Wally World.
Black/dark fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the tranny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush is far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the tranny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush is far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
12-06-2012 | 06:36 AM
#39
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That's like crapping your pants and not changing underwear afterwards.
12-06-2012 | 07:23 AM
#40
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by macgyver35
I'll copy and paste my response on another thread related to this. I used this method, it took 15 minutes, I didn't have to get under the XJ at all, and I paid about $79 for 3 gallons of Dex III at Wally World.
Black/dark fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the tranny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush is far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
Black/dark fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the tranny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush is far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
12-06-2012 | 07:46 AM
#41
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
That is a nice write up, if I were the type to collect them I'd definitely file that!
In case you weren't aware, also for anyone who might find this thread later, there is no application for this fluid on an XJ. ATF+4 will work just fine in the NP231 and SOME AW4s but D/M III is the right stuff.
Originally Posted by Jjs2000xj
Just a side note.... I just picked up a gallon of Valvoline Dex /Merc IV at O'reillys for ~$18 / gallon reg price here in Michigan so I'm guessing other parts stores should have similar prices too
Last edited by salad; 12-06-2012 at 07:49 AM.
12-07-2012 | 04:22 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Concord, CA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I've already started and almost finished my drain and fill process. Fluid looked pretty red and good after one drain and fill but continued with the others.
Had I seen or known about this foward flush I would have definitely gone that route.
All this great info in one thread I'm sure no one will have the confusion I did. I had trouble finding such good information initially. Mods is there any way to add a bunch of different tags to this thread for other users to easily find?
Had I seen or known about this foward flush I would have definitely gone that route.
All this great info in one thread I'm sure no one will have the confusion I did. I had trouble finding such good information initially. Mods is there any way to add a bunch of different tags to this thread for other users to easily find?
12-07-2012 | 10:46 AM
#43
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 311
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Thanx for the write up.
Questions regarding this, probably stupid ones, but then you can give me stupid answers too:
With the radiator, do you mean, the transmission cooler/radiator?
And you connect that (garden) hose to where the line was connected on the radiator? So, the upper transmission line, does that go anywhere or just disconnected waiting to be reconnected when done?
12-29-2012 | 01:00 PM
#45
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[/LEFT]
Thanx for the write up.
Questions regarding this, probably stupid ones, but then you can give me stupid answers too:
With the radiator, do you mean, the transmission cooler/radiator?
And you connect that (garden) hose to where the line was connected on the radiator? So, the upper transmission line, does that go anywhere or just disconnected waiting to be reconnected when done?
Thanx for the write up.
Questions regarding this, probably stupid ones, but then you can give me stupid answers too:
With the radiator, do you mean, the transmission cooler/radiator?
And you connect that (garden) hose to where the line was connected on the radiator? So, the upper transmission line, does that go anywhere or just disconnected waiting to be reconnected when done?
The radiator has a transmission cooler built into it. There are two line that go to it; one at the top and one at the bottom. You disconnect the metal line from the top fitting on the radiator and set it aside. You won't need to mess with it during the flush. Hook the garden hose up to the threaded fitting on the top off the radiator and put the other end in a 5 gallon bucket.