RockyMtn96XJ

Glad you got to the bottom of it. The issue, not the trans. (get it? Since the valve body is on the bottom of the trans...)
Mine kind of seems to stick in either 2nd or 3rd a little too long possibly. It wants to stick around 3000RPM for a little too long before it shifts. Maybe I just notice it when its doing it, but it doesnt do it all the time. It could be acting completely normal and I only notice it when its happening... and it is probably happening in the same location on my drive home every day, going up an incline from a red light hahaha.. I suppose I'll pay good attention on my way home
I did do a drain and fill w/ new filter in the trans about 2 years ago, about 4000 miles ago. Yes, only 4000 miles in 2 years. but I really don't think it was doing this until a few weeks ago maybe. Guess I'll find out later. Will adjust kickdown cable also.

It could also be my driving style. I dont always aim for the best MPG. Usually aiming for fastest lap.

Curious to hear about this rebuild.

Jim Malcolm

May be worth a try of the AutoRX...

Mortgage Payer

I've had Valvoline MaxLife Syn in three Cherokee Aw4s for years now.
Not a single problem and I'd say it gives superior winter performance.

awg

Interesting, the valve bodies do get full of scum, and have tight piston clearances

The AW4 that issue happens in is now a retired farm vehicle

It seems the AW4 trans is up for a rebuild at 200+ miles, from my experience, and talking to the foreman of the largest TC rebuild specialist in our area

Heat kills them, my trans temp touched 250F before I switched it off, and was running at 230F in an ambient of about 90F, pulling a trailer for 30mins uphill (after a 100km trip)

That is too hot, and even though I have an aftermarket larger cooler, I will have to look at Y-fitting the factory cooler as well

Apart from summer months, it runs at about 180F

I recently solved a common, weird presumed valve body issue that has been plaguing me for over 20 yrs in a BW8 trans (Ford FMX),
it would not kickdown a gear under heavy throttle no matter what, even though it worked perfectly in every other respect

Had it all apart, no obvious faults, but a few of us have been working on this issue and found an apparent solution;

Run the car up a hill at maximum throttle and heavy load, down-change the column shift leaver from D to L

Apparently this maximum possible pressure overcomes a piston that must be jamming ever so slightly in its bore

Know we both have kick-down

BruceB

I did...as per the instructions, half a bottle....drove it for 700 miles after and no noticeable difference, that is when I decided to take it to the transmission specialist.

BruceB

I have had this transmission in the Jeep for 2 years and 17000 miles...unfortunately I have no idea how it was treated before I got it. I do know that the pan was smashed in a bit, but that is all. Since it has an unknown history to me, and the fact that I intend to keep this jeep for another 20 years or so, I thought it only makes sense to rebuild the transmission and hope I don't have to readdress it again.

vroomvroom

If you are referring to this stuff, I use it as well.

Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) 1 GA - Walmart.com

BruceB

I also used that in the original transmission for over 100,000 miles and 10 years.....what caused the replacement was a droning noise from an internal component that I was told would require a complete rebuild. I made the decision to go with a transmission from the same year Jeep with 107000 miles from a salvage vehicle that would carry an 18mo/18000 mile warranty for about half the price of a rebuild. In hind sight, which is perfectly clear, I should of just went with the rebuild of the original transmission as I knew how it was maintained, serviced and treated.

Jim Malcolm

While I understand the "value" in never-have-to-worry-about-it-again, there's a better than 50/50 chance that your issue is in the valve body, not in the actual drive portion of the transmission. In practice, it's really two completely different assemblies that are being "rebuilt" and then bolted together. As such, you *could* refresh just the valve body portion of it without taking the transmission out of the vehicle, and if the problem happens to be elsewhere in the transmission, it's not a whole lot lost since the valve body just unbolts. Certainly some extra cost in labor and fluid if you have to drop the pan twice, but also a large potential for savings.

BruceB

You are more than likely correct regarding the valve body and if this was the original transmission that I took care of I may have went that way. However I have no clue to how this transmission was treated before I got it. I don't know if it was run overheated, towed to much, seldom fluid changes etc etc...so in that thought process is why I decided to go with a full rebuild. If it ever comes to the engine, I won't be sticking another motor in it...this one will be removed and rebuilt by people who really know what they are doing.. Truth be known, I never liked the idea of putting in a transmission from a wrecked vehicle....