Aw4 problems
#1
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Location: rockingham nc
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have a 1998 xj 4.0 , I did a engine replacement on it and now when you put the jeep it drive it revs and hardly pulls, you can pull the shifter in 1/2 and it will pull fine also pulls fine in reverse. I have replaced the filter and fluid ,I'm out of ideas any help would be great.
#2
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Location: Fort Bragg, NC
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Was the fluid drained from the tranny? Have you checked the fluid level? Does it smell burnt? Assuming fluids are topped off. You may have an internal problem with the tranny that has forced it into limp-home mode. Usually when a tranny does this you only have one forward gear and possibly reverse. This is why it will only go into first and reverse. This is just my guess. Happens a lot in out 4L80Es. But usually a huge indicator is the tranny fluid itself. Burnt it will have an odor, sourish as well as discolored from its normal red color.
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Assuming that you swapped out the engine and that the transmission worked fine before that?
TV cable adjustment and verifying the throttle position sensor would be on the list....
TV cable adjustment and verifying the throttle position sensor would be on the list....
#6
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0
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Ok adjusted tv cable still no change but did take it out on the road and I could shift it manually. I was wondering it it could be shift selonoids causing the problem.
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#9
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Location: Byron, IL
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I had an engine code for my solenoid failure. I could shift manually, but it would not shift down to first by itself after it heated up. Felt really slow.
I ordered some solenoids off ebay. They had all three, filter screen, and gasket for around 60 dollars. I cant speak for their longevity as maybe I have done about 2k miles since then. To me for 60 dollars it was worth a shot over replacing just the one bad one and having to go back again. Also the part stores want over 100 dollars for just one solenoid.
I replaced my solenoids at 195k, but I purchased the jeep with the problem so it could have been occurring for awhile before that.
I ordered some solenoids off ebay. They had all three, filter screen, and gasket for around 60 dollars. I cant speak for their longevity as maybe I have done about 2k miles since then. To me for 60 dollars it was worth a shot over replacing just the one bad one and having to go back again. Also the part stores want over 100 dollars for just one solenoid.
I replaced my solenoids at 195k, but I purchased the jeep with the problem so it could have been occurring for awhile before that.
#10
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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It is worth tackling yourself. The hole process is very easy and requires minimum tools.
- 4 quarts of dex/mecron III ( I believe the pan holds about 3)
-socket set
-RTV
-scraper to get old RTV off pan and transmission
-something to drain the transmission into for disposal
- 4 quarts of dex/mecron III ( I believe the pan holds about 3)
-socket set
-RTV
-scraper to get old RTV off pan and transmission
-something to drain the transmission into for disposal
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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so just my 2 cents(its all I have left in my pocket), sounds like a computer controlled mode. When I was having voltage issues, my alternator was sending over 20 volts places that it shouldn't. The computer sees this and sends you into a "limp mode." basically what that is, is your tranny stays put in 3rd gear, no overdrive. So naturally when you manually shift into 1 and then 2, it will accelerate like normal. But imagine trying to take off in 3rd gear with a 5 speed and 3:55 gears... you would be hard press not to smoke the clutch and the engine would stall or just hate you forever. but since you have a torque converter, the engine in reving but the fluid is passing by, where it is hardly able to move the vehicle. a good test to try, would be to find a long flat stretch of road, and just try to take off. use first gear if you feel its neccesary. once you reach about 15 mph, put it back in drive and wait till you are moving at about 38-42mph. if you are in "limp mode" you should notice the jeep running about 2000 rpms when you try to just maintain that speed. when you press on the gas, it will pull a little bit better, though it wont downshift. then coast down to 35 and accelerate back to 40. it should do it easily. if this is the case, then the issue mentioned in the above posts could still be whats wrong, but it also could be something else that has to do with engine swap that your computer is not liking. that could be anything from an open circuit, to a bad crank sensor and anything else in between. like I said, just my 2 cents. hope it helps.
Last edited by K2dark_xj; 12-15-2016 at 03:51 PM.
#13
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Year: 1998
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Sorry guys work kicked in just now getting back to messing with the jeep . I have been chasing a electrical issue with my cluster not working , it will pass the self test but after that nothing . I did code the jeep and getting a p1698 and have got selonoid but have not replaced yet just been checking and repairing some broke wires in drivers door so wondering if there is anyway all of this could be connected to one problem