AW4 shifting VERY hard
07-26-2016, 10:37 AM
#16
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It does sound like the line pressure is too high.
In Drive, curb idle, the pressure should be 61-70 psi and at WOT it should be 173-205 psi.
In Reverse, curb idle, the pressure should be 75-90 psi and at WOT it should be 213-263 psi.
Not that you are going to measure these pressures I just showed you the difference in pressure.
If the pressures are not to spec the FSM says to adjust the Throttle Cable.
The FSM states for harsh engagement to adjust the Throttle Cable, or the Valve Body or Primary Regulator is faulty, or the Accumulator Pistons are faulty.
Does your Throttle Valve Cable adjuster at the TB linkage hold a setting after it has been adjusted? If the conduit piece slips back in to the adjuster you will get harsher shifting, if it slips out you will get softer shifting.
Make sure the conduit holds its setting. If it won't you may have to change the cable.
Open this link for TV cable adjustment and tuning instructions (page 2). It's essentially the same as the vieo except that I added the Tuning instructions.
Click the images to make them larger.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5602547
Last edited by CCKen; 07-26-2016 at 01:30 PM.
07-26-2016, 11:59 AM
#17
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It does sound like the line pressure is too high.
In Drive, curb idle, the pressure should be 61-70 psi and at WOT it should be 173-205 psi.
In Reverse, curb idle, the pressure should be 75-90 psi and at WOT it should be 213-263 psi.
Not that you are going to measure these pressures I just showed you the difference in pressure.
If the pressures are not to spec the FSM says to adjust the Throttle Cable.
The FSM states for harsh engagement to adjust the Throttle Cable, or the Valve Body or Primary Regulator is faulty, or the Accumulator Pistons are faulty.
Does your Throttle Valve Cable adjuster at the TB linkage hold a setting after it has been adjusted? If the conduit piece slips back in to the adjuster you will get harsher shifting, if it slips out you will get softer shifting.
Make sure the conduit holds its setting. If it won't you may have to change the cable.
Open this link for TCV cable adjustment and tuning instructions (page 2). It's essentially the same as the vieo except that I added the Tuning instructions.
Click the images to make them larger.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5602547
In Drive, curb idle, the pressure should be 61-70 psi and at WOT it should be 173-205 psi.
In Reverse, curb idle, the pressure should be 75-90 psi and at WOT it should be 213-263 psi.
Not that you are going to measure these pressures I just showed you the difference in pressure.
If the pressures are not to spec the FSM says to adjust the Throttle Cable.
The FSM states for harsh engagement to adjust the Throttle Cable, or the Valve Body or Primary Regulator is faulty, or the Accumulator Pistons are faulty.
Does your Throttle Valve Cable adjuster at the TB linkage hold a setting after it has been adjusted? If the conduit piece slips back in to the adjuster you will get harsher shifting, if it slips out you will get softer shifting.
Make sure the conduit holds its setting. If it won't you may have to change the cable.
Open this link for TCV cable adjustment and tuning instructions (page 2). It's essentially the same as the vieo except that I added the Tuning instructions.
Click the images to make them larger.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5602547
07-26-2016, 01:29 PM
#18
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Awesome thank you, I'll try tuning the TV cable when I get off. It seems that it's holding its position pretty well but I haven't taken a ruler to it or anything, how small of a movement can make a difference? Also, is adjusting the throttle cable itself another process or is that what adjusting the TV cable does? Sorry for all the questions haha
The Throttle Cable is the TV cable.
The tuning movements of the conduit can be very touchy and can make a noticeable difference. Move it one detent at a time.
When I got mine to where I liked it I painted a mark on the conduit next to the button housing to see if it slips any.
Let us know how you make out.
Edit. If your adjustment mechanism is oily, spray some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner next to the button to clean the oil out.
Last edited by CCKen; 07-26-2016 at 01:32 PM.
07-27-2016, 11:42 AM
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The Throttle Cable is the TV cable.
The tuning movements of the conduit can be very touchy and can make a noticeable difference. Move it one detent at a time.
When I got mine to where I liked it I painted a mark on the conduit next to the button housing to see if it slips any.
Let us know how you make out.
Edit. If your adjustment mechanism is oily, spray some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner next to the button to clean the oil out.
The tuning movements of the conduit can be very touchy and can make a noticeable difference. Move it one detent at a time.
When I got mine to where I liked it I painted a mark on the conduit next to the button housing to see if it slips any.
Let us know how you make out.
Edit. If your adjustment mechanism is oily, spray some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner next to the button to clean the oil out.
07-27-2016, 12:08 PM
#20
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Put a socket and a breaker bar on the rear pinion, and crank it . Should be tight, spec is about 200 ft.lbs, if you move it, its likely loose.
07-27-2016, 12:43 PM
#21
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A coasting delayed upshift may be a TCM issue or a 1-2/3-4 solenoid issue. If not it may be the valve body.
If you are not getting a transmission DTC/CEL and is related to the solenoid, the solenoid may be sticking.
You can test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistance but if it's a sticky solenoid the test won't show it - it's an electrical test.
You say tuning the TV cable is helping, but just how soft is the shifting now? If too soft it may cause the delayed upshift.
07-27-2016, 01:17 PM
#22
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A coasting delayed upshift may be a TCM issue or a 1-2/3-4 solenoid issue. If not it may be the valve body.
If you are not getting a transmission DTC/CEL and is related to the solenoid, the solenoid may be sticking.
You can test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistance but if it's a sticky solenoid the test won't show it - it's an electrical test.
You say tuning the TV cable is helping, but just how soft is the shifting now? If too soft it may cause the delayed upshift.
If you are not getting a transmission DTC/CEL and is related to the solenoid, the solenoid may be sticking.
You can test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistance but if it's a sticky solenoid the test won't show it - it's an electrical test.
You say tuning the TV cable is helping, but just how soft is the shifting now? If too soft it may cause the delayed upshift.
07-27-2016, 02:31 PM
#23
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[QUOTE=zumer715;3284091]It's not soft yet, I still have some tuning to do as I can still feel the shifts but they are not as harsh. I have no CEL so is it possible that when I get the TV cable dialed in it'll solve this problem too?[/QUOTE]
Possible.
Try this: Pull the conduit all the way out and drive it. If it is too screwy go back in with it a click at a time until you're happy. Mark the location of the conduit next to the button housing and keep an eye on it to see if it slips out of position over time, especially if your shifting problems return.
Possible.
Try this: Pull the conduit all the way out and drive it. If it is too screwy go back in with it a click at a time until you're happy. Mark the location of the conduit next to the button housing and keep an eye on it to see if it slips out of position over time, especially if your shifting problems return.
07-27-2016, 07:49 PM
#24
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[QUOTE=CCKen;3284112]
It's not soft yet, I still have some tuning to do as I can still feel the shifts but they are not as harsh. I have no CEL so is it possible that when I get the TV cable dialed in it'll solve this problem too?[/QUOTE] I just did this on my way home from work and I think all the way out is as good as it'll get. It shifts smooth now but it's still kinda rough when going into drive or reverse from park. Could all these symptoms be the side effects of some larger issue with the trans?
Possible.
Try this: Pull the conduit all the way out and drive it. If it is too screwy go back in with it a click at a time until you're happy. Mark the location of the conduit next to the button housing and keep an eye on it to see if it slips out of position over time, especially if your shifting problems return.
Possible.
Try this: Pull the conduit all the way out and drive it. If it is too screwy go back in with it a click at a time until you're happy. Mark the location of the conduit next to the button housing and keep an eye on it to see if it slips out of position over time, especially if your shifting problems return.
07-28-2016, 07:36 AM
#26
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I'm thinking u joints and/or engine/trans mounts need a good inspection.
07-28-2016, 11:47 AM
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[QUOTE=CCKen;3284287]That was weird, i meant to post this sorry.
I just did this on my way home from work and I think all the way out is as good as it'll get. It shifts smooth now but it's still kinda rough when going into drive or reverse from park. Could all these symptoms be the side effects of some larger issue with the trans?
I just did this on my way home from work and I think all the way out is as good as it'll get. It shifts smooth now but it's still kinda rough when going into drive or reverse from park. Could all these symptoms be the side effects of some larger issue with the trans?
07-28-2016, 11:48 AM
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07-28-2016, 05:41 PM
#29
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Just throwing this out there- is it possible the torque converter solenoid is locked up? I have mine run to a switch so I can engage it manually and your symptoms sound like when I forget to disengage it. I would think the solenoid would only get stuck in the disengaged position though...
Then again your CEL would come on if one of the solenoid circuits failed...
Then again your CEL would come on if one of the solenoid circuits failed...
Last edited by alpine.adrenaline; 07-28-2016 at 05:44 PM.
07-28-2016, 07:54 PM
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