Axle placement
#1
Thread Starter
Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Axle placement
Im trying to squeeze in new control arms in. My new 4.5 inch coils are in so all I need to do is finish getting my new arms in. The frame is supported with jack stands at their tallest setting. Axle is just sitting on scissor jacks ...basically full droop. The axle isn't far enough forward for the arms to get in. Would jacking the frame up amd lowering the stands help push it forward when the frame comes down? I know you can pull the axle out with a come a long or a ratchet strap but i'm trying to avoid that as it didn't work. Will lowering the body work???
#2
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 880
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From: lake hartwell
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
I put an engine stand with an engine mounted to it, against a block of wood against my bumper. then got a pretty beefy ratchet strap and went to town cranking it till the control arms fit. I did that after sitting there for an hour wondering what to do lol.
#3
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Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
See I have a.wimpy strap and nothing to ratchet to. I thought it would be possible to install em without any straps..I still feel like lowering the body will push the axle forward. But idk
#6
I used the bottle jack from under the rear seat to move the axle into place and line up the bolt holes for the control arms. Placed it between the CA mount on the frame and the axle to push it forward slowly. Worked like a charm and I have used that trick multiple times when swapping front axles.
I also took a spare handle from a bottle jack and modified it a little for ease of use. Cut it down to only 12 inches long, used a grinder to make three flat spots on it, slipped it in the cordless drill and saved myself a lot of time and effort by not having to hand crank it.
I also took a spare handle from a bottle jack and modified it a little for ease of use. Cut it down to only 12 inches long, used a grinder to make three flat spots on it, slipped it in the cordless drill and saved myself a lot of time and effort by not having to hand crank it.
Last edited by winston427; 05-22-2012 at 09:25 AM.
#7
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Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I used the bottle jack from under the rear seat to move the axle into place and line up the bolt holes for the control arms. Placed it between the CA mount on the frame and the axle to push it forward slowly. Worked like a charm and I have used that trick multiple times when swapping front axles.
I also took a spare handle from a bottle jack and modified it a little for ease of use. Cut it down to only 12 inches long, used a grinder to make three flat spots on it, slipped it in the cordless drill and saved myself a lot of time and effort by not having to hand crank it.
I also took a spare handle from a bottle jack and modified it a little for ease of use. Cut it down to only 12 inches long, used a grinder to make three flat spots on it, slipped it in the cordless drill and saved myself a lot of time and effort by not having to hand crank it.
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#8
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Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ive been thinking about how to do this without using straps all day. Im thinking If I put floor jacks under the frame and slowly lower the body it will push that axle forward and allow me enough room to get the arms in. Then I can just jack them up/lower them as needed to line em up.. Is that logical? Or will lowering the body not have any affect on the axle moving forward?
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
the way i seee it...
forget the straps...lift the truck more and lower the axle more, this will give you more length between the axle and frame so you can instal the control arms, then after arms are installed lower truck and raise axles to where they should be, instal springs if you need to(i would install springs after control arms, i would do the control arms first
forget the straps...lift the truck more and lower the axle more, this will give you more length between the axle and frame so you can instal the control arms, then after arms are installed lower truck and raise axles to where they should be, instal springs if you need to(i would install springs after control arms, i would do the control arms first
#10
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Coils are already in, thing is the more I lift the frame the more it pulls the axle in. I had the axle on the ground basically and the frame way up and the arms wouldnt go in, the arm would hit on part of the axle cause of the angle. So you think i should pull the coils then install the arms?
#11
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Coils are already in, thing is the more I lift the frame the more it pulls the axle in. I had the axle on the ground basically and the frame way up and the arms wouldnt go in, the arm would hit on part of the axle cause of the angle. So you think i should pull the coils then install the arms?
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