yeah no codes. i’ll continue going down the list from advice i’ve been given hopefully i’ll come back with good news. thank you!

 

Yeah. No codes for that big a failure make me think pcm. fuel, or asd relay but you can get to there by troubleshooting what’s been said, I think.

 

so I ended up replacing the cam sensor today along with the distributor cap and rotor because of rusting and wear, and the engine seems to be running much smoother. rpms are around 750 at idle and i let it sit in my driveway again to see if it would die and it stayed on strong for about 20 minutes before it cacked out. so it’s definitely running longer than it was before, i don’t have the tools yet to test the asd relay or the fuel pressure but am hoping to do that tomorrow. would fuel still be a possible problem even though it’s staying on for a good amount of time (with revving the engine every so often)? or does this sound more like an asd problem since it just shuts off all of the sudden. also, what would your thoughts be on looking into it being the temperature sensor? it can sit at operating temp for a while but it only ever dies once it’s at operating temp.

 

one item I think the Parts Canon is the appropriate method...ever since I saw a vastly experienced auto electrician squeeze one..and it started working

somewhat possible it could be a nasty terminal/wire connection in the relay socket or underneath the PDC ?

 

could you elaborate more on the first section you’ve wrote up? i’m sorry i’m a little confused i’m not too experienced and not quite understanding what you mean by the electrician squeezing one and it started working. i feel like the asd relay is acting appropriately, and something else is just telling it there’s another problem which causes it to just shut off. would a temp sensor cause it? it will run strong until it reaches operating temp and after a few minutes at operating temp it will just shut off. i put a new crank sensor, cam sensor, cap and rotor so far which has helped my stalling problem a lot (it’s just prolonged and doesn’t die as fast). i’m thinking it might be a temperature sensor problem? i’m going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow since mine looks like it hasn’t been changed since it’s been built, but the fuel pump turns on every time and will run (at idle, i haven’t driven it because i don’t want to get stuck in the middle of the road) for about 20-30 minutes before dying. thanks so much for the help and if i’m completely wrong on anything please let me know so i can learn!

 

i also did the “key trick” on my jeep today to see what pending codes came up because i don’t have an active check engine light, and since i have a 96 it gives it to me thru flashes and not on the odometer. i got 12, 11, 24, 43, and 47 followed by the 55 code which i know is the end of codes code. i’ve looked them up and if i follow the obd codes (even though i have the obd2 year, none of the codes line up with those codes when doing the key trick) i’ve got a relative idea of what could potentially causing my problems but i’m still a little lost. if anyone has insight on how i can utilize those codes to maybe help my problem i would appreciate it! or if i’m looking at them completely wrong please let me know!

 

So i got it up and running for a day and then ended up changing spark plugs and wires because the wire from the cap to the ignition coil had a bad connection and would slip off once it warmed up and would only start if someone put pressure on the connector while i started the ignition. But then that black connector pictured seemed to be the final problem because if that group of wires/connector moved it would make the jeep turn off. I couldn’t find any information on what it could be so I just ended up taking it to the shop because i needed it fixed asap so i have transportation again. there was a spliced wire under the electrical tape i’m assuming from the previous owner, thinking that may be the problem. thanks to everyone who helped me out through this process i really appreciate it!

 

thx for the resolution reply

that sounds like a pretty good outcome..an intermittent bad wire can be one of the easiest or hardest faults to trace

 

On the big black connector, there seems to be a small red wire cut off. I wonder what that was for?

 

Hmm i’m not sure, wondering the same thing. hopefully i’ll hear some good news and more information from the shop today

 

I say this to everyone..download the Factory Service Manual from Cruisers website..in it you will find a section that identifies every connector, what it does, pin outs, wire colors etc etc

This is vital information for whoever is working on it

 

Link?