I just pressed in New ball joints and this is the result on the upper joint. When I went to press the old joints out the knuckle and the yoke were flush so this gap seems like a problem to me, what do you all think? These are moog ball joints that I got from advanceauto. I checked the part numbers against their website and it says these are the right parts.

 

I'm assuming those are Moog? Return them if you can, if not save them as spares and just buy OEM Spicer ball joints. I went through 3 sets of Moog from Advance before going to OEM. Moog isn't what it used to be, at least as far as ball joints are concerned.

I had gaps, I had no return to center on the wheel after a turn, and I had one wear out in a couple hundred miles. All attributed to the Moog balljoints. OEM Spicers are cheaper too. If you need help finding them cheap let me know, I'll give you the links.

 

I hate to ask this. But the bolt is tightened all the way down right

 

Yes it is, alwase a good question to ask regarless

 

I'll absolutely take some links if you've got them to give. Thank you!

 

Local to me but ships anywhere, Denny's Driveshafts

And good ol' .

Should get you in the right direction. I had pictures of when I did mine 2 years ago, and all 3 sets looked like that as well when properly tightened.

 

The Moog ones that is. The Spicer ones didn't have a gap like that.

 

Have you greased them? I had a gap w/ my Spicers (little smaller probably). I was concerned until I added grease and the boot filled and made up the gap.

Get the wheel on and get weight of the truck on it, drive it around the block and re-torque the bolt. After that grease it. If you don't have a corresponding gap in the lower the knuckle it should be seated fine.

 

You really shouldn't have to re-torque the ball joint nuts as long as they were torque properly and castle-nut/cotter pin were used. I've never "driven around the block" to seat a ball joint. I do agree however that the gap isn't a problem as long as everything lined up. It's just how those ones are made. My problems were mainly quality of the product itself.

Putting my 30 back under as we speak:


OEM Spicers, I don't have zerks thought because they're WJ ball joints.

 

The idea wasn't to seat the ball joint but to see if it was moving. If they moved or the bolt was loose after that, the ball joint is at fault and I would suggest replacing at that point.

 

Ah ok got ya

 

I could've been clearer-