Definitely doable for shade tree mechanic. But not easy. You can go to the parts store and purchase the ball joint press kit for around $170. Keep the receipt and pay in cash and you can return it after you use it.

You will also need a size 13 star socket tool to remove the steering knuckle. $5 at the parts store.

You will need a large, sturdy adjustable wrench to remove the large castle nuts that hold the ball joints and the tie rod ends.

You will need a big hammer to knock the steering knuckle off once the castle nuts are removed. Use plenty of penetrating oil like PB Blaster in the days leading up to it.

Jeep must be sturdy raised because you will putting some pretty good force on the ball joint press to get the darn thing in. Use jack stands for sure.

It takes some trial and error to figure out which adapters to use for the ball joint press. That is probably the hardest part of the whole process.

It's not easy. My XJ is completely rust free and I had a hell of a time knocking off the steering knuckle and TRE. That's why they charge $700 LOL.

 

This is true. The little instruction book with the POWERBUILT kit I rented was useless.

What, were you trying to keep the TREs or something?

 

Tie rod ends don't have to come off.

 

I got those ball joints from Serious Offroad, and would recommend them. The price is reasonable, and it seems to be a quality product. While you are this deep into the front of your Jeep, I would definitely consider replacing the axle u-joints, and the hubs. I spent $350 total on quality parts. I got quoted $2100 to replace the hubs, axle u-joints, and ball joints from Canadian Tire (not that I would actually get any work done from them, but I got a quote for fun).

 

I agree to also replace hubs and u joints while you're at it because you have to take them off anyway.

 

Alloy USA or Spicers? I figure my Spicer OEs were good for 13 years, might as well spend the dosh and get another 13 years outta 'em.

rofl @ $2100 for Crappy tire to do all that. And you know they'd just use either NASCAR PERFORMANCE brand (probably the Moogs everyone has trouble with) or ****ing CERTIFIED lol. Oh and probably bust the seals on the diff. On the bright size they probably wouldn't snap the studs when putting the lug nuts back on because the studs are brand new lol

 

Hubs take 10 mins to a half hour each and run around $130 each for good ones. Might as well tell the guy to replace his jeep while he has the key out.

On another note, check the axle shaft u joints for play, they probably need to be replaced.

 

You can get Timken hubs for about $75 each, and i would consider those good ones. Definitely no reason to go replacing parts ***** nilly, but if mileage is high enough to warrant it and the wallet is feeling loose enough, can't see any other reason not to replace.

 

Well you'd think Crappy tire wouldn't snap the studs, but who knows? I got the Spicers from Serious, haven't had any issues with them in the year they've been on. I'm not sure if it actually made any difference, but i put the ball joints in the freezer for a few days before installing them, and heated the knuckle where they mounted before the install as well. If anything, I figured it couldn't hurt, but the ball joint press (princess auto/harbor freight flavour) did its job well regardless.

 

MAYBE on a brand new Jeep you could replace a hub in half an hour. But on a Jeep with 12-25 years of settling, road salt, and other rust, I would like to see that accomplished. Especially for a shade tree mechanic who probably doesn't have hub pullers and other make-life-easy tools. I agree it is not a technically difficult job, but it is definitely time consuming, especially for a first timer.

 

Hubs are like $75 each for timkens...

 

I've heard some folks bash the HF kit, I figured PA would be same OEM. Rented the kit at PartSource and it worked pretty well. I think someone bent the C frame though. Freezer is a good idea, dunno why I didn't try that. One of the four was a pretty big PITA to install.

Ain't no special need for hub pullers! Writeup I linked earlier has a great trick on how to remove those: Use the hub bolts and power steering, they just pop right out.

That said, the axle I got for free that I did ball joints on I actually ended up using an angle grinder to remove them. Seized pretty badly.

 

But if you've got a hub puller handy... You are absolutely right though, there are quite a few good tricks out there with just a little searching throughout the forums.

As for the HF/PA ball joint kit, if I was expecting to be replacing my ball joints more than once, I would probably have invested in something better.. That cheap cast c-clamp doesn't seem very substantial, but it did hold up for me. Definitely a good option is the rent-a-tool.

 

Yeah same thoughts here as I've gotta do U joints soon. However, I kept the original tool for a couple months so they ordered another one in lol. Now I know there'll always be one available

 

I keep an old rotor handy....bolt it on backwards.....then a few hits with a sledge and the unit bearing comes off the knuckle no problem.