battery cable ends
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
battery cable ends
how do you change your battery cable ends? or is it easier to change the whole cable and if so how do you do that?
thanks
thanks
#3
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Year: 1999
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Read 5-90s website. He sells all new charging wires, and has a bunch of information on everything you need to know electrical XJ wise.
http://www.kelleyswip.com/
http://www.kelleyswip.com/
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quititman (01-30-2023)
#4
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cut your ends off, strip some of the housing away and bolt them up to these. use a bit of die-electric grease on the end of the cable when you pinch it together.
just don't over tighten onto the battery terminals.
just don't over tighten onto the battery terminals.
#6
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You would be better off with new cables. If you still want to do replacement ends strip cable insulation back a few inches to check
if cable is good. Ken U
if cable is good. Ken U
#7
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Year: 1988
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2) the terminals pictured should be considered strictly temporary. Leaving the end of the cable open is just as bad as the moulded-on OEM clamps, you've got space for intrusion of acid vapours - which causes internal corrosion under the jacket, conduction loss, and eventual failure.
(That's why I use a LOT of heat shrink underhood - to prevent contamination & failure of connections. ESPECIALLY on mains!)
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#9
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Year: 1999
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2) the terminals pictured should be considered strictly temporary. Leaving the end of the cable open is just as bad as the moulded-on OEM clamps, you've got space for intrusion of acid vapours - which causes internal corrosion under the jacket, conduction loss, and eventual failure.
No problems yet.
#11
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becareful if you use the ones from advance not to cut the cable too short. and by no means to the ends of the terminals without wire comming off, the end with the horizontal bolt not the vertical bolts need to be touching. so please do not tighten them till they touch.
#12
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OK... not to dump on everyone's suggestions.... BUT.. If you are still using the factory stuff rip it out and replace it all if you can. And do not buy Wally World or any other of the off the shelf crap. I currently only buy this guy's stuff and make my cables from end-to-end.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
#13
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Year: 1988
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OK... not to dump on everyone's suggestions.... BUT.. If you are still using the factory stuff rip it out and replace it all if you can. And do not buy Wally World or any other of the off the shelf crap. I currently only buy this guy's stuff and make my cables from end-to-end.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
However, I note a common error on the site - do not use dielectric grease to lubricate electrical connections directly! Dielectric grease should be used for things like lubricating spark plug boots, but it shouldn't be used on any metal terminals.
Why? It's an insulator - that's what "dielectric" means! Use an electrical corrosion inhibitor to protect the terminals themselves, it's formulated to be conductive, and therefore to not increase the resistance of a connection. Most parts houses don't carry the stuff, but your local hardware/DIY store should have it in the electrical section.
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Year: 1993
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OK... not to dump on everyone's suggestions.... BUT.. If you are still using the factory stuff rip it out and replace it all if you can. And do not buy Wally World or any other of the off the shelf crap. I currently only buy this guy's stuff and make my cables from end-to-end.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
Yes I wish they were a forum sponsor. If you can purchase equal parts for a sponsor or someone else do so. The other stuff you will eventually replace. Had the stuff above on my last truck for many years with no problems or failures.
He has been having a lot of problems getting things shipped lately! I do buy from him, as he has great products and prices. He is geared toward Broncos. But cables are universal! Just beware that a lot of guys on the bronco forums are having trouble getting shipments in.
#15
CF Veteran
1) Dielectric grease is an insulator - that's what "dielectric" means. Use corrosion inhibitor, you'll find it in the electrical section at your local hardware/DIY store.
2) the terminals pictured should be considered strictly temporary. Leaving the end of the cable open is just as bad as the moulded-on OEM clamps, you've got space for intrusion of acid vapours - which causes internal corrosion under the jacket, conduction loss, and eventual failure.
(That's why I use a LOT of heat shrink underhood - to prevent contamination & failure of connections. ESPECIALLY on mains!)
2) the terminals pictured should be considered strictly temporary. Leaving the end of the cable open is just as bad as the moulded-on OEM clamps, you've got space for intrusion of acid vapours - which causes internal corrosion under the jacket, conduction loss, and eventual failure.
(That's why I use a LOT of heat shrink underhood - to prevent contamination & failure of connections. ESPECIALLY on mains!)
i guess there are electronic geeks in every aspect...
almost 30 years and i've never had vapour gas corrosion loss or eventual failure...