DFlintstone

OK. I gather to bleed you depressurize the system by pumping 40 times with the Ign. off, then you leave it off and bleed as normal.

Edit! The FSM describes a different procedure! Says put a hose from the bleeder to a glass jar with fluid, turn ON ign, open bleeder 1/2 turn and have a helper depress the petal to run pump until bubbles stop. Be very careful to not let the Res. run dry!

DFlintstone

That link says there is a recall on the Bendix 10 Master Cylinder, as well. Maybe I should take to my local Jeep shop here, (maybe sans some of the green stuff), and see what they say!

DFlintstone

I found some maybe helpful testing info for different problems> http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/2...l-702-the.html

DFlintstone

Found a neat link for the (99-04), WJ swap> http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...stem-upgrades/

(from Freedgr in an old thread..

Stabsthedrama

Just wanted to say sorry for your loss.

I'm diggin the new one though, very cool!

Brake issues suck though.

DFlintstone

Thanks, yea, waz hoping to post nutty high miles for Brown, was hummen so sweet! (with 280+K)

So... Chuck and Co. Something new today. Pump ran on start-up. Descended the 1,500 feet down my hill, went to the market 5 miles, came home, and listened for the pump.

At this point, ignition on what I heard was "clickedy clickedy" down near the fuse-box, under the dash, left of the wheel. I pumped the brake, didn't hear the pump. Both light's on. Couldn't (and still can't) find my camera to record that. I needed the last of the light to (not fix), something else, and it ran the pump when I got back to it.

It's dark and raining, but at least my (4th lumbar) isn't screaming bloody murder, I'll look for relays. Wouldn't that be nice!

DFlintstone

No resistance between map ground, or engine to bat neg. 1.1 to body.

Found the whole works in my own FSM. I noticed that it's ECU plug is right under the reservoir and is wet with brake fluid. I'll figure out how to reach/clean it tomorrow.

'90Cherokee

Good ABS is great, this one isn't. I replaced mine with standard non-abs master, booster, and proportioning valve from Oreily auto parts. It works pretty well but the rears seem weak. Then I came here and read some stuff and realized that the dana 35 used with ABS XJs has smaller brakes than the others so the rear needs more pressure or the bigger brakes to keep the balance. The brake pedal is also a bit different, it'll work with the the abs pedal, but is a bit off on alignment to the rod.

DFlintstone

Thanks 90...I'll likely do the WJ swap > http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...stem-upgrades/

Here is the wiring in case it's helpful to anyone following.

'90Cherokee

If it's a bad brake computer I have the one out of mine I was planning to sell and just haven't. The only one I looked up was on ebay for $185 but I don't need to get that rich off it.

DFlintstone

OK, actual progress. #1, the propositioning valve is tripped, causing the "always on" red brake light. (If I unplug the switch on the prop. valve, no red light). Also one rear looks drenched, and it won't bleed.

How the heck do I bleed it after new shoes and wheel cylinders, with the prop. valve tripped? Thought's?

#2 I think the excessive petal free-play is shot rubber in the master cylinder. When I stab quick and hard, it holds, but fades with less pressure. Thoughts? (or is that because of the Prop. valve?)

#3 There is not a correct cap on the Res, and the line to the pump from a nearly imposable clamp, has a "j" , which drips right over the connection from the modulator to the ABS's ECU!

DFlintstone

A good look here shows how a leak in the difficult clamp on the rez to pump fitting can leak right on the connection from the modulator, to he ABS's ECM!
I'm sure that in time, brake fluid is not good for electrical connections. ALSO there are connections on the drivers side of the master/modulator that, at least in my case might have seen brake fluid.

Here, a loose clamp is leaking fluid from a "J" in the line, right onto where the ECU plugs into the modulator.

Those wires below go to the ECU for the ABS computer, the connector is right under a "J" in the line from the res to the pump.

DFlintstone

I took a stab at pulling that connector from the ABS computer to the modulator. Gave up pretty quick.

Radi

I can usually re-center those differential pressure valves with a few good stomps on the brake pedal after repairing the leak. If that doesn't work you have to remove it and do it by hand.
What a perfect spot for a fluid leak, right over the electronics!

DFlintstone

10-4. I saw that in an FSM, thanks. I'm ordering/buying shoes and slaves, gonna clean whatever contact's/connections I can reasonably reach.