Bendix 9 Anti-Lock Brakes on a 90. Cherokee ABS
#46
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I have the new stuff, waiting on weather. The prop. valve has a 3/8 plug on the front. I wonder if that is to let you re-set it with a wire or something?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-15-2015 at 03:56 PM.
#47
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Year: 1991
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The prop valve off of Bendix 9 systems are the exact same as a normal systems prop valve, but there two plugs on it, they're nothing more than plugs for the hole. The prop valve I got from the junkyard had a seized fitting in it so I just used my old one and took out the plugs.
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In my post #5 pic you can see the front plug. The rear of the prop. valve has a rubber button/cap looking thing. So far I can't push it or really even reach it!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-15-2015 at 03:57 PM.
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Year: 1991
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In my post #5 pic you can see the front plug. The rear of the prop. valve has a rubber button/cap looking thing. So far I can't push it or really even reach it! With a break in the weather I should have the rears redone this weekend.
And! A note to people with real bad back pain, if you just keep going, you might end up with one leg numb. (I feel a little stupid now)
And! A note to people with real bad back pain, if you just keep going, you might end up with one leg numb. (I feel a little stupid now)
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OK first the lever to the star is not touching. Looks like it will hit/work/engage though. Then a booger I've seen before....Am I not seeing something where the loop on the end of the adjuster cable is larger than the pin?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-23-2014 at 05:13 AM.
#51
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It looks like it has sat a good bit. This rust on the drum might be worse than it looks, the part between where the shoes were is pretty gone. I mainly mention this because of the green -funky fluid. Copper waz mentioned.....I bet there might be some brass somewhere.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-15-2015 at 03:59 PM.
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The loop has to be big enough to get over the head of the pin. The spring on the secondary looks tweaked like it's on wrong, hard to say for sure. The adjuster looks wrong, but hard to tell with the fuzzy pic and the paper in there.
#53
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The rain actually stopped. I just now checked the 55 Gal. drum I use as a gauge, and the sucker was over topped. Now I lost count. Still drizzling, I managed to change the rear stuff in only 6 hrs.
Progress with a grumpy face. Stomping/pressing really hard with the new rear stuff just installed didn't do much. Previously, while the rears were "dead" I did a high pressure "stomp", and felt something give, wasn't sure if it 's not just the linkage creaking. I might have driven the propositioning valve all the way "home".
So....The pump will come on and run all day, but park it hot for a bit, often no pump. (I did not have the pump today). I parked it with the nose up about 30*, ABS pump will work in the AM. Pluggen away....
It looks like it has sat a good bit. This rust on the drum might be worse than it looks, the part between where the shoes were is pretty gone. I mainly mention this because of the green -funky fluid. Copper waz mentioned.....I bet there might be some brass somewhere.
Progress with a grumpy face. Stomping/pressing really hard with the new rear stuff just installed didn't do much. Previously, while the rears were "dead" I did a high pressure "stomp", and felt something give, wasn't sure if it 's not just the linkage creaking. I might have driven the propositioning valve all the way "home".
So....The pump will come on and run all day, but park it hot for a bit, often no pump. (I did not have the pump today). I parked it with the nose up about 30*, ABS pump will work in the AM. Pluggen away....
It looks like it has sat a good bit. This rust on the drum might be worse than it looks, the part between where the shoes were is pretty gone. I mainly mention this because of the green -funky fluid. Copper waz mentioned.....I bet there might be some brass somewhere.
#54
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Thanks guys^..
Still stumped. The pump seems to be reliably working. Allot ot the system has fresh fluid, maybe that helped. I can give it a quick stab and get the prop. valve light to turn off, but with much pressure I feel a light "tick" from the petal and the red comes on. Still can't bleed the rears no matter what I do. I tried opening a front and stabbing it, (with the thought of popping the valve the other way). That may have worked some, as I then got some tiny amount from a rear.
I suppose I need to go after the prop. valve, but I'm puzzled why I get so much air with the vacuum bleeder, even when the light is off, (presumably the valve is reset)
Here's a Utube of the vac bleeder I made with a Seal-a-Meal!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ETo...ature=youtu.be
Still stumped. The pump seems to be reliably working. Allot ot the system has fresh fluid, maybe that helped. I can give it a quick stab and get the prop. valve light to turn off, but with much pressure I feel a light "tick" from the petal and the red comes on. Still can't bleed the rears no matter what I do. I tried opening a front and stabbing it, (with the thought of popping the valve the other way). That may have worked some, as I then got some tiny amount from a rear.
I suppose I need to go after the prop. valve, but I'm puzzled why I get so much air with the vacuum bleeder, even when the light is off, (presumably the valve is reset)
Here's a Utube of the vac bleeder I made with a Seal-a-Meal!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ETo...ature=youtu.be
#56
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Well.....my point was the rust told me it had been sitting a long time, long enough for I suppose brass parts to color the fluid, (As mentioned earlier, it's a copper alloy).
Gravity, pressure, vacuum, or with a helper, the rears won't bleed, with the light for the proportioning valve off. I can get the petal to "catch" high, with a quick stab, then it fades. Likewise down lower under high pressure it will fade. The blown rear cylinder, the intermittent pump function, the green fluid, the tripped prop. valve, and the fact it is what it is make it tough for me to diagnose a bad master cylinder, but I think that's it, (or maybe the last problem). The lifetime recall/warranty apparently includes the "the brake actuator piston assembly" , AKA, Master Cyl.
Found on Jeeps Unlimited;
You might want to read the full recall. It states right in the recall (EXCEPT FOR THE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON ASSEMBLY AND THE PUMP-MOTOR ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL HAVE A LIFETIME COVERAGE), So they have to fix it. The actuator piston assembly and pump motor assembly have a lifetime warranty on them. Take it to the dealer and shove this letter in their face and make them fix it. This is a safety recall. Most dealers don't know about this part of the recall. I have seen people go through this before. The first thing the dealer brings up is that it is out of the 10 years or 100,000 miles coverage and then when you tell them the pump motor and actuator piston assembly have a lifetime warranty on them they shut up and then agree to fix it because they know they are wrong. Hope this info helps.
Here is the Recall:
JEEP
Model: CHEROKEE
Year: 1989
Manufacturer: CHRYSLER CORPORATION
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 96V260000
Mfr's Report Date: OCT 01, 1996
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 52000
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS). THE ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT CAN EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON SEAL WEAR WHICH COULD CAUSE PUMP-MOTOR DETERIORATION.Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS, THE ABS FUNCTION WOULD BE LOSE AND REDUCED POWER ASSIST WOULD BE EXPERIENCED DURING VEHICLE BRAKING. THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING LIGHTS WILL SIGNAL SYSTEM IMPAIRMENT AND THE BASE MANUAL BRAKES WILL REMAIN FUNCTIONAL.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL TEST THE VEHICLE'S ABS AND REPAIR AS NECESSARY. THE WARRANTY ON ALL ABS COMPONENTS WILL BE EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES (EXCEPT FOR THE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON ASSEMBLY AND THE PUMP-MOTOR ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL HAVE A LIFETIME COVERAGE). OWNERS WILL BE REIMBURSED FOR PREVIOUS ABS COMPONENT REPAIR COSTS.
Notes: OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN APRIL 24, 1997. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT CHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-800-424-9393.
And a few posts later;
Firstly, the Bendix 9 ABS system was only available from '89-'91. Before that ABS was not available and after that was a different system. Here is a good explanatory link on how it works:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bendix9.htm
As previously mentioned, the actuator (think master cylinder) and the pump assembly are both covered forever. Everything else is a wear item. The only thing that generally goes wrong other than the two free replacement parts is the accumulator, which is the grapefruit sized black ball assembly next to the actuator.
This here is the link to the page where I found the above info > http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...ll-89-Cherokee
I'll contact my local dealer here, see what they have to say.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-28-2014 at 09:57 PM.
#58
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Just for fun I called that Chrysler # 1-800-853-1403. Their robot starts going through recalls. "if you have a 2006 with seat-belts press one". (I made that up, but you get it). Thankfully ABS was mentioned soon, (for another newer Jeep). So I get an nice polite English speaker. "last 8 of your Vin." (he thought it started with the wrong #) "So are you Mark" "No, I just bought it from Mark".
So the seller has been here, AND, they then go on to get the transfer date, and request my full info, address, phone# email ect. This is before any real discussion of any issues. Felt more like a traffic stop, then "service". (excluding "service", in the agricultural sense).
"the ten years has expired"
"no, the pump and actuator are "lifetime"
"we installed an after-marlet (not lifetime) actuator in 96"
"What? you are telling me since the "lifetime" actuator, was replaced with an after-market, it's no longer a lifetime warranty? " I'm going to call the NHSTA"
"Please hold while I check"
We need authorization from the dealership, he says.
(I Get it, any dumb-*** might say anything, even ME)
"So I'm on a fixed income, and normally do my own mechanics work, can you tell me if I will need to pay for this?"
He needs an evaluation from the shop. Reasonable enough. Anybody who has done squat with an automobile, knows that when the brake pedal fades it's master's cup aint' making a seal.
Maybe I can get the the service manager to simply press on the petal, THEN! DO A QUICK STAB, WHICH GRABS IT HIGH, AND "TODAY" DOES ANTI LOCK
So the seller has been here, AND, they then go on to get the transfer date, and request my full info, address, phone# email ect. This is before any real discussion of any issues. Felt more like a traffic stop, then "service". (excluding "service", in the agricultural sense).
"the ten years has expired"
"no, the pump and actuator are "lifetime"
"we installed an after-marlet (not lifetime) actuator in 96"
"What? you are telling me since the "lifetime" actuator, was replaced with an after-market, it's no longer a lifetime warranty? " I'm going to call the NHSTA"
"Please hold while I check"
We need authorization from the dealership, he says.
(I Get it, any dumb-*** might say anything, even ME)
"So I'm on a fixed income, and normally do my own mechanics work, can you tell me if I will need to pay for this?"
He needs an evaluation from the shop. Reasonable enough. Anybody who has done squat with an automobile, knows that when the brake pedal fades it's master's cup aint' making a seal.
Maybe I can get the the service manager to simply press on the petal, THEN! DO A QUICK STAB, WHICH GRABS IT HIGH, AND "TODAY" DOES ANTI LOCK
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-30-2014 at 12:38 AM.
#60
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Year: 1991
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Chrysler has given a lot of people the run around on this recall. Mine wouldn't touch it and others refused to acknowledge a recall that gave a lifetime warranty on anything. I've heard of others who had brought them in and then had to wait a month or longer for Chrysler to source the replacement parts. The "lifetime" warranty is just a bandaid until all the Cherokees that had it are off the road and junked. Originally I had wanted the work done to keep the ABS but after reading about people who had the work done only to have the system fail again I decided that putting in a standard brake system was the only safe way to do it.